Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (2 Viewers)

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U planing to fab one later or just run without?
I am running without. If I start to notice any flex in the steering, then I will fab one up.
 
I'm running stock placement. I still don't know why it needs to be dropped. When I need to reseal the oil pan I will cut it out. I believe @maxamillion2345 took his out and braced it another way.
 
I'm running stock placement. I still don't know why it needs to be dropped. When I need to reseal the oil pan I will cut it out. I believe @maxamillion2345 took his out and braced it another way.

Well... I stripped everything off the frame firewall forward but cab mounts and then plated the inside with 3/16 firewall to front crossmember. On the outside I plated it with 1/8 firewall to crossmember. And then I think another piece of 1/8 where the steering box mounts. Then I welded up my engine mounts and shock towers etc...

It's there to brace that steering box and obviously people do see cracks right there so Id definitely do something to reinforce it. Even if its just a big frame plate to spread the load out more. I think without that brace, and with the weight of the cummins over the steering, give it some years and it will crack. I'm also running hydro assist to help take force off the box/frame.

I did see someone make a removable one with a really big bolt or something on one end though. I can't quite recall.
 
I will probably end up plating the frame, I like having that brace out of the way.
 
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I lowered mine on he one side 2.5" as I felt it was a required cross brace. I actually need to lower it another 1/2" as the pan is contacting the bar on shutdown.
 
I am getting far too much smoke at idle for my liking, it clears up great under boost, but needs some low end tuning. This afternoon I pulled the smoke screw cover off and backed the pre-boost screw out about 3 turns, didn't make any noticable difference. I think I may need to pull the AFC and see where my builder put the plate...I assume it is all the way forward, which would cause high pre boost smoke. I am also going to order up anow AFC live V.2 so that I can adjust fueling on the fly.

I also noticed that my backup battery wasn't charging, I somehow blew the 150amp fuse in the line that connects main positive to hell roaring isolator. Threw a new fuse in and good to go.
 
I made a few changes to my boost leak tester, I added a 60 psi guage and a quick disconnect coupler with a shutoff valve. I capped off the pipe at the intake horn with a can of PB Blaster.

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I was able to find a few leaks:
  • A small crack in one of the pipes, right on the weld where I had massaged it to clearance the throttle linkage. I welded that crack up and repainted the pipe.
  • The 4 grid heater bolts were slightly leaking so I used a litle RTV on the bolt threads, which seems to have worked.
  • Once I pressurized the system to 15+ pounds I found another load squealing leak coming from one of the intercooler couplers...I tightened the band clamp and I now think I am good to go.
The below video shows that it takes about a minute for the system (including turbo) to bleed down to 0 psi from 20 psi which I beleive is good.
 
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After sorting out all the boost leaks I took the truck for a spin, and heard an awful turbo noise briefly. The noise stopped and then it built up boost no problem. I pulled the air box back out so I could take a look at the compressor...yep it's toast. Time to go shopping for a new turbo.

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After sorting out all the boost leaks I took the truck for a spin, and heard an awful turbo noise briefly. The noise stopped and then it built up boost no problem. I pulled the air box back out so I could take a look at the compressor...yep it's toast. Time to go shopping for a new turbo.

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That's a bummer :(

Which turbo is it?
 
is there shaft play or was the housing loose or something? maybe just put an aftermarket wheel on it? that looks like an early 8 blade hx35w?
 
That's a bummer :(

Which turbo is it?
Yeah, I think the boost leak made the turbo over speed and took out the bearings, which made the compressor wheel grind up the housing.

It's a Holset HX35W

is there shaft play or was the housing loose or something? maybe just put an aftermarket wheel on it? that looks like an early 8 blade hx35w?
The shaft has lateral movement now, it would need a full rebuild. I am on the hunt for a replacement now.
 
I found a replacment charger which is on its way. I also got my hands on an AFC live 2.0 unit which will allow me to fine tune the fueling of the injection pump. I also got the max travel spring for the AFC which will allow me to tune the pre boost fueling better than the stock spring does.
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