Build Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap

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Each morning I have to pick if I want to get to the train station in a rumbling hurry or take a slow chugging cruise through the hills...1st world problems.

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I am really enjoying driving both of these cruisers, they are polar opposites, and I love them both.
 
Dirty Koala said:
Each morning I have to pick if I want to get to the train station in a rumbling hurry or take a slow chugging cruise through the hills...1st world problems.
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From those of us who only have one LC...:moon:

Yes, one day, one day.
 
I had a little time this afternoon to sort out my A/C, but nothing is ever as straight forward as I hope.

I pulled the glove box and connected the replacement AC amplifier I picked up on ebay since I lost mine. Put the glove box back in and moved to the engine bay.

I put new o-rings on the compressor and then evacuated the system, system is closed and holding 30Hg..off to a good start.

According to the 134a label on the front grill cross member, I need between 1.76 and 1.98 pounds of refrigeratant I'm the system.
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I figure I will shoot for 1.90 pounds, or 30.4oz, which is 2.53 12oz cans.

I load up about 3Oz of PAG100 oil into the suction line and then hook up the 1st can. The system sucks down the first can, and the pressure is building on the guages, but the compressor clutch does not engage and the pressure stops climbing, the compressor should be on by now.

I discover that my climate control, windows and all buttons on the dash are not working, a little review of the EWD and I realize that the 10amp guage fuse is the common denominator for all those circuits. Sure enough it's blown.

My theory at this point is that I had reversed the positive and negative wires for the A/C compressor, and when the pressure built enough for the system to engage the magnetic clutch it short circuited and blew the fuse.

I hot wired the clutch to check which wire is which and sure enough I had them reversed. I corrected the problem, started the truck up and finished charging the system...2.53 12oz cans.

I borrowed the wife's kitchen scale to weigh the refrigeratant, we'll keep that between us.
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End result, ice cold A/C!!!

I took the truck for a drive to check it out, all is good. As I pulled back into my driveway a cop pulls in behind me...I am thinking this is going to be expensive.

Turns out he just really liked the truck so followed me home to check it out. We chatted for about 10 mins, went over the bulk of the swap details and then he was off, Nice fella...wouldn't be surprised if he pops up on mud soon.
 
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How have I missed the past couple months worth of updates!! Unreal!!

Figure out what the front end popping noise was?

Did you have to deal with oil pan clearance issues without more lift?
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
How have I missed the past couple months worth of updates!! Unreal!!

Figure out what the front end popping noise was?

Did you have to deal with oil pan clearance issues without more lift?
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Yeah I cranked up the intensity towards the end there...very happy with the result. I still need to pull the transfer case to put the marlin low range and terrain Tamer overdrive gears in. I assume the popping noise was the transfer case, I think I didn't put a support bushing in that was supposed to come with the part time spool.

I am actually probably going to go back to full time case now that I have a double cardon front shaft.

I have had no clearance issues at all, plenty of room for the oil pan.

Crusha said:
I've decided that Morgan is not actually human.

He's some strange type of hybrid from the future that renews his energy by simply breathing, sleep not being a necessity.
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Too funny. I like to stay busy.
 
OLDTOYOMAN said:
Hey Morgan how much do you think going back to a full time case will effect fuel mileage and additional wear on front end?
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The OEM setup lasted 17 years before I part timed it, so I am not concerned with the longevity of the front end. I am gettingredients 23mpg, I don't expect any change in that number by going back to full-time.
 
Dirty Koala said:
The OEM setup lasted 17 years before I part timed it, so I am not concerned with the longevity of the front end. I am gettingredients 23mpg, I don't expect any change in that number by going back to full-time.
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Man that's impressive fuel economy! I'm getting right about 17mpg in mine.
 
This is an amazing build. The 80 looks great. You said you are putting overdrive gears in from Marks for the HF2AV? I didn't see them on their site but they do exist? Thanks
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Man that's impressive fuel economy! I'm getting right about 17mpg in mine.
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Yeah it's really good, the way I had the motor built has proven to be a nice balance of raw power and fuel economy.

dogfishlake said:
This is an amazing build. The 80 looks great. You said you are putting overdrive gears in from Marks for the HF2AV? I didn't see them on their site but they do exist? Thanks
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I have low range gears from Marlin and I have overdrive gears from Terrain Tamer. The only parts I have from Marks is the part time spool in the transfer case.
 
A few weeks ago I was on my way to the train station and running late, so letting it rip. All of a sudden I lost boost and could hear the turbo winding up.

Today I had some time to make a boost Leak tester with PVC pipe and a valve stem. I found that I am leaking out the back of the compressor housing, right by the huge snap ring that holds to the two parts together.
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Not sure why this would have started leaking all of a sudden, also not sure if I have any other leaks yet...I can pressurize the system to about 5lbs, but it bleeds down to 0 in just a few seconds, which doesn't give me enough time to check any of the other connections.
 
I remember a big rubber o-ring that goes between the compressor cover and the backing plate. Maybe that let go?
 
boots4 said:
I remember a big rubber o-ring that goes between the compressor cover and the backing plate. Maybe that let go?
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I don't belive the HX35W has a O ring like the early H1C. If it does need an O ring it will have a machined groove for it when you take the cover off. My HE351cw does not have one as well.

Usually when I do a boost leak test I regulate feed pressure to 40psi or so and put a male aur chuck into the cap so I get constant air flow at regulated 40psi.

Using a shader valve limits the volume and tome you have to check for leaks.
 
I've never included the turbo in tests either. Without oil pressure you would be blowing past the Shaft also into the old cavity. No orings on the compressor housing in hx35 or hx30. Neverseen issues there but anything is possible.

Quick connect air connectors and regulated air source.
 
Alright, looks like I'll add a quick connect air source to my tester. the HX35 doesn't have an o-ring, but it's a fairly common leak spot from what I have read. some folks have success with adding a little RTV before sealing the housing.

I suspect I have another larger leak some place that is the real culprit for boost leak.
 
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