Build Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap
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- Thread starter
- #1,002
I have a plan for the wiring harness, but haven’t made the modifications yet. Plan to do that soon.
The motor has been built to easily hold 700hp, but the plan is to cap it around 500hp.
Head studs w/MLS gasket, 12V forged connecting rods, 104lbs valve springs, performance cam, more fuel capacity through the CP3 and larger injectors, bigger turbo, 5 custom tunes & a Fluidampr to smooth if all out.
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I'm worried for my wallet when I ask how much?
Sounds great, I'll be following along.
For the he351, check out the turbo lab of America upgrades. I'm using that turbo in my compound set (4bt) with the larger turbine wheel and it's amazing. I've read that without the larger compressor wheel on a 6bt, it produces high backpressure, but ymmv. The larger compressor wheel has been amazing for me.
HE351 Exhaust Housing Upgrade - Turbo Lab
HE341 HE351 Exhaust Housing Upgrade Details: HE351 HE351CW HE341 Turbine Housing Upgrade 67mm x 76mm HX40 Turbine Wheel + Turbine Housing Reduce EGTs Lower Drive Pressure Increase Spool Up (because of 76mm exducer of turbine) Brand New Turbine Housing Direct Replacement of HE341 HE351 HE351...
turbolabofamerica.com
- Thread starter
- #1,006
For the he351, check out the turbo lab of America upgrades. I'm using that turbo in my compound set (4bt) with the larger turbine wheel and it's amazing. I've read that without the larger compressor wheel on a 6bt, it produces high backpressure, but ymmv. The larger compressor wheel has been amazing for me.
HE351 Exhaust Housing Upgrade - Turbo Lab
HE341 HE351 Exhaust Housing Upgrade Details: HE351 HE351CW HE341 Turbine Housing Upgrade 67mm x 76mm HX40 Turbine Wheel + Turbine Housing Reduce EGTs Lower Drive Pressure Increase Spool Up (because of 76mm exducer of turbine) Brand New Turbine Housing Direct Replacement of HE341 HE351 HE351...turbolabofamerica.com
Aggressor HE351 60/67 Turbocharger | Power Driven Diesel
Add power and performance to your diesel with the Power Driven Diesel Aggressor HE351 60/67 turbocharger Larger turbines allow for less restriction and...
powerdrivendiesel.com
This is the HE351 that I have. It’s been modified to 60/67
Aggressor HE351 60/67 Turbocharger | Power Driven Diesel
Add power and performance to your diesel with the Power Driven Diesel Aggressor HE351 60/67 turbocharger Larger turbines allow for less restriction and...
This is the HE351 that I have. It’s been modified to 60/67
Love it. Did you do the spring waste gate control or an oem style diaphragm (boost reference) waste gate control?
I run a stock, ported wastegate he351 on the 12 valve in my ZF6 Superduty. Spools quick, tows good. EGTs do run on the high side towing. Been wanting to try the larger turbine. But it works fine as is. It can get on the freeway at 85 mph or tow 30k gross up 7% at 65. And zero smoke with 5×.013's.
- Thread starter
- #1,009
It came with a boost reference style waste gate. I may add a boost elbow if I feel the need to increase the boost.
Yeah, but in a cruiser, you're talking driveshafts and diffs well before that point.
Keep it up man, love the build.
No idea. I’ve avoided asking him specifics so I don’t buy it. But I’m doubting it’ll be very much. He said it’s just work out, body/frame/axle wise. He drives it several hundred miles a day. I don’t drive that far. I keep telling myself I don’t need it.
- Thread starter
- #1,013
Exactly why we are going to limit the top tune to about 500hp. At that point we are already in the breakage zone if not careful. One of the tunes is going to be an off-road tune to really dial back the power and response time to help avoid breakage.
- Thread starter
- #1,014
Back at it after a far too long hiatus.
Project this week has been focused on the fueling system. I installed the new injectors and cross-over tubes and lubed up all the metal contact points in the valve train with assembly lube so as to not cause any damage upon initial start up prior to the oil getting circulated through the head.
For those that may do this themselves at some point, here are the key places to make sure you have assembly lube added.
1) Beneath the pedestals
2) On top of the pedestals (where the rocker rides
3) On top of the push rods
4) On top of the valve stems
5) On top of the bridges (each bridge sits across the top of two valve stems)
6) In the center of the rockers (this will bleed down into the pedestal too)
Project this week has been focused on the fueling system. I installed the new injectors and cross-over tubes and lubed up all the metal contact points in the valve train with assembly lube so as to not cause any damage upon initial start up prior to the oil getting circulated through the head.
For those that may do this themselves at some point, here are the key places to make sure you have assembly lube added.
1) Beneath the pedestals
2) On top of the pedestals (where the rocker rides
3) On top of the push rods
4) On top of the valve stems
5) On top of the bridges (each bridge sits across the top of two valve stems)
6) In the center of the rockers (this will bleed down into the pedestal too)
- Thread starter
- #1,015
2 steps forward, one step back. I recently added a fancy Steed Speed exhaust manifold and tapped the intake manifold with a 1/4NPT tap so I could add a 1/4NPT to 1/8NPT fitting for a future boost sensor. I loosely installed my used 6.7 injector rail and injector lines, but then realized that no one makes a high pressure line to connect a 5.9 CP3 injection pump to a 6.7 fuel rail. The opposite combination is available…but that doesn’t help me. I had two options….try to slightly straighten a 6.7 line to make it 4mm longer…or scrap the freshly built and modded 5.9 pump for a new 6.7 pump. I chose the latter and ordered up an S&S 10mm high speed pump…way more fueling capacity than I need, but it will now be future proofed.
The night before I realized this predicament, I happened to have a bit of a nightmare thinking about micro grit in the used fuel rail and lines making their way into my new injectors….so I decided I might as well make every part that has fuel running through it to be brand new…so a new Bosch rail and fleece injector lines got added to the shopping cart.
While I am waiting for those fueling components to arrive, I turned my attention to the turbo oil drain fitting in the block. The press in -10AN adapter I have from Fleece would not easily press in…I learned that it’s very common for there to be a thin glaze built up in that hole in the block, enough so that you can’t get an adapter fitting installed. Which led me to another step back as tonight I pulled the oil pan back off in prep for de-glazing that hole tomorrow.
The night before I realized this predicament, I happened to have a bit of a nightmare thinking about micro grit in the used fuel rail and lines making their way into my new injectors….so I decided I might as well make every part that has fuel running through it to be brand new…so a new Bosch rail and fleece injector lines got added to the shopping cart.
While I am waiting for those fueling components to arrive, I turned my attention to the turbo oil drain fitting in the block. The press in -10AN adapter I have from Fleece would not easily press in…I learned that it’s very common for there to be a thin glaze built up in that hole in the block, enough so that you can’t get an adapter fitting installed. Which led me to another step back as tonight I pulled the oil pan back off in prep for de-glazing that hole tomorrow.
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- Thread starter
- #1,018
Lots of progress this past week. I got that turbo oil drain sorted and got the pan back on with an OE Cummins gasket so I won’t have to deal with that nasty black RTV next time the pan comes off.
I also took off my 5.9 CP3 pump and installed the 6.7 S&S CP3.
Then turned my attention to the backside of the motor and got the backing plate, flywheel, clutch and starter installed. I am running a HD south bend single disc clutch and the larger flywheel that came in front of the 6 speed manuals.
The new injector lines and high pressure rail feed line arrived, so got those installed. Had to source a 6.7 rear lifting eye that offsets to clear the 6.7 fuel rail and lines. I also had to track down and order up a 6.7 LP fuel return line from rail and a unique banjo/hose barn fitting, both of which are Chrysler only parts, so took a lot of research to figure out part numbers. Those two items haven’t arrived yet…but once they do I can button up the last of the fuel system components.
Picked up an OE 190 degrees Cummins thermostat and installed the upper water neck. Once the paint dries I’ll slap on the lower accessory bracket/water neck.
It’s now almost time to get this motor test fit…it’s getting exciting.
I also took off my 5.9 CP3 pump and installed the 6.7 S&S CP3.
Then turned my attention to the backside of the motor and got the backing plate, flywheel, clutch and starter installed. I am running a HD south bend single disc clutch and the larger flywheel that came in front of the 6 speed manuals.
The new injector lines and high pressure rail feed line arrived, so got those installed. Had to source a 6.7 rear lifting eye that offsets to clear the 6.7 fuel rail and lines. I also had to track down and order up a 6.7 LP fuel return line from rail and a unique banjo/hose barn fitting, both of which are Chrysler only parts, so took a lot of research to figure out part numbers. Those two items haven’t arrived yet…but once they do I can button up the last of the fuel system components.
Picked up an OE 190 degrees Cummins thermostat and installed the upper water neck. Once the paint dries I’ll slap on the lower accessory bracket/water neck.
It’s now almost time to get this motor test fit…it’s getting exciting.
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Love the color layout
- Thread starter
- #1,020
Me too. With the Cummins tan it’s easy to spot any leaks too.Love the color layout