I've called and emailed trying to get the new one. I need a backup for long trips.
Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap
- Thread starter Dirty Koala
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
I've heard it requires an end over end rollover
No, just a nutjob driver with a heavy right foot and no regard for his, or his truck's, safety
Dirty Koala
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- #264
Good luck getting a hold of one...let me know if you make any progress on that front.
I've heard it requires an end over end rollover
I am going to have a very light foot until I figure out what the xfer case and axles are comfortable with.No, just a nutjob driver with a heavy right foot and no regard for his, or his truck's, safety
Dirty Koala
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- #265
Going camping and wheeling this weekend, last hoorah for the 1FZ-FE. I have been needing replace my drivers birf since my last trip to TN as it started clicking.
This afternoon I got busy swapping in a chromoly birf, but I ran into a little trouble removing the AVM locking hub. Two of the six little torq screws had seized and rounded out on me...one even managed to snap my torq fitting.
I decided to cut the Hub off...piece of junk. Finished the job and temporarily put my old drive flange on.
Tomorrow I will see if I can get a pair or Aisins overnighted.
I believe there is no issue driving the truck in 2wd with the drivers front axle spinning and the front diff open.
This afternoon I got busy swapping in a chromoly birf, but I ran into a little trouble removing the AVM locking hub. Two of the six little torq screws had seized and rounded out on me...one even managed to snap my torq fitting.
I decided to cut the Hub off...piece of junk. Finished the job and temporarily put my old drive flange on.
Tomorrow I will see if I can get a pair or Aisins overnighted.
I believe there is no issue driving the truck in 2wd with the drivers front axle spinning and the front diff open.
Interested to see how that setup holds together. You are going to be putting a lot of torque through it.
My worry would be breaking a output shaft.
My worry would be breaking a output shaft.
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #267
Yes, to date I haven't seen anyone run a juiced up cummins in an 80, so we will definatetly be breaking new ground...and hopefully that's where the breaking ends.
If I were to wager on the weakest link, I would think it will be the rear axle studs...time will tell.
Now that my Ram is completely back on the road, and I have a 2nd 80 to drive...I can finally pull the 1FZ-FE out.
These are my other two rides
I broke two bolts on my Aisin hubs by overtorqing them when reinstalling last year. Replaced with some stainless ones.
I am getting the sneaking suspicion something called "addiction" is taking hold....
Dirty Koala
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- #270
At least the bolts on the Aisins are regular hex bolts, the AVM's have tiny little torx heads. Do you happen to know the bolt size in the Aisins that you replaced?
You may very well be correct sir...there are worse vices to have.I am getting the sneaking suspicion something called "addiction" is taking hold....
I don't remember the size but it wasn't anything special. I found them at Lowe's which has a nice little metric stainless section.
Found the size in my notes. I believe they are M6X1.0X16mm
Now I understand why the AVMs are cheaper. How much of a breaking difference do you notice having lost your ABS?
As for the addiction, I'll defer to Daryle Singletary's country song Too Much Fun, there's no such thing as too much fun, a girl too pretty, a car too fast...or in @beno 's case, an 80 with too many dents.
Dirty Koala
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- #274
I notice zero difference in the braking without the ABS...the light does irritate me, so I will either get the sensor relocating bracket from marks, or I will delete ABS altogether.
I took the bulb out and pulled the fuse. I still need to delete. If I didn't pull the fuse I had ABS when in 4WD post swap.
Yep. Braking is just great in mine. Pulled the fuse some 2yrs ago (was having spastic abs issues while stopping and causing more problems than worth) . Light is on. It is 50/50 whether I will delete the ABS or use the light on the dash as reminder to track it down and fix.
I would not run one hub with a drive flange and the other unlocked with an open diff. One shaft will turn and the other may NOT turn, thus, causing your front diff to be the same as spinning a tire and not moving with an open diff. It causes the gears internally to be spinning fast and they can overheat. you would be better to lock the other hub as well (unless you have a locker installed). If you do have a locker in front, then i would do the drive flange and engage the front locker so it is all turning together and the one hub is UNlocked to allow freedom of movement between the front axles while on pavement.
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #278
I have an ARB locker in both front and rear. The problem with locking the front, means I would also have to lock the rear (or switch airlines) so I could lock the front only by engaging the rear locker switch.
Hopefully this is just a theoretical exercise. I ordered up a pair of Aisins and had them overnighted, I should have them in hand tomorrow.
Dirty Koala
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- #279
Finding time to work on my cruiser has been tough lately with an onslaught of family commitments and the honey-do list. That said, I feel it's time for an update.
I was in need of a good solid work bench in my garage, so I knocked up a 6.5'X3.5' bench with a 3/8" thick plate top. That sicker is stupidly heavy.
I then got busy tearing the NV4500 down. The reason for yhe tear down is replace the main shaft with the custom splined and cut main shaft that will adapt to the HF2AV. I am also upgrading the input shaft and retainer to a 1 3/8" Southbend input, replacing 5th gear and all synchro, bearing and seals.
In order to get the mainshaft out, I had to cut the bearing race on the rear mainshaft bearing. This is a typical issue with the dodge NV4500's
Main shaft out and next to the new main shaft.
This is about when I realized I was going to need a good vice...time to go shopping
I was in need of a good solid work bench in my garage, so I knocked up a 6.5'X3.5' bench with a 3/8" thick plate top. That sicker is stupidly heavy.
I then got busy tearing the NV4500 down. The reason for yhe tear down is replace the main shaft with the custom splined and cut main shaft that will adapt to the HF2AV. I am also upgrading the input shaft and retainer to a 1 3/8" Southbend input, replacing 5th gear and all synchro, bearing and seals.
In order to get the mainshaft out, I had to cut the bearing race on the rear mainshaft bearing. This is a typical issue with the dodge NV4500's
Main shaft out and next to the new main shaft.
This is about when I realized I was going to need a good vice...time to go shopping
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #280
So after a little retail therapy, I had this back breaking 70+lbs monster at my door. It is a Yost 880-DI 8" made in the USA ductile iron vice...should last me a lifetime.
