Builds Dirty Bastard (2 Viewers)

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Make sure you do not make that torque mount on the 205 case too rigid, or you'll twist the motor and the tranny/adapter will fail.

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The tcase needs to be able to "twist". A hard mounted tcase to the frame rails will fail when you really flex your rig..

I prefer these types of mounts.
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I'm using a mount very similar to the one you're showing, but hard mounted at the frame side for the anti-wrap bar shackle so that it can't twist.
I do have poly mounts on the transmission crossmember, engine mounts, and now for the torque mount, so hopefully I'll have enough flex in the drive train.
 
Cool sounds like you are on track!
 
Started on the front tube fenders today; what a cluster fxxx. Although the radius and angles of the bends were correct for the fender openings, the distance between the bends was incorrect for the well opening. I had a conversation with the vendor and they'll get back to me, but I'm not pleased at all. I spent the better part of the day notching all the tubes to be able just tack and weld, but it wasn't meant to be.
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Another thing I noticed was the two tubes for the inner part of the fender were not the same overall length. One was longer toward the front, the other longer toward the rear, so even had the bends been in the correct orientation, one side would have been too short in the rear.:bang: Ridiculous.
I almost have the rear transfer case torque mount/ anti-wrap cross member done, but realistically I lost the better part of the day to the fenders.
 
Not ideal but you could cut the tube between the bends to remove what you need to and weld them back together. I am not sure what that does to the rest of the fit though.
 
Not ideal but you could cut the tube between the bends to remove what you need to and weld them back together. I am not sure what that does to the rest of the fit though.
That's the plan for tomorrow. Just a pain in the ass for a "kit" that's supposed to fit the stock opening.
 
I understand, when you pay full price for something you expect it to fit. I dealt with something similar, sucks, sorry you are stuck fixing it.
 
I wasn't thrilled with the fit of the metal tech flares either. Though with that said, the issue may simply be communication - I've no idea where they planned for them to land. In the end, I lengthened the metal (yeah, you're not there yet), and put a bit more bend on one of the frame-to-tube tubes.... but I've still no idea what they were thinking. I'm sure it was clever, but I'm just not that clever. I also wonder why that outside rail isn't one piece. I used the nose to line up everything else. Also metal-prime the top before you put the metal on the top....
 
He clearly stated there was no need to out the vendor...

What, you mean I shouldn't tell the world that MetalTech could be better? after all, there was once, mispelled, then twice when you quoted - but now, I might as well just say it's MetalTech... wouldn't want anyone to miss the nuance :)

And frankly, that's not outing anyone - suggesting something to be aware of simply is suggesting that they could be better, not that one shouldn't buy from them.
 
Or you could stop being a prick. :meh:

He didn't want to out the vendor out of respect. Something you should learn.

I would like to know what shock towers as well. Thinking of changing the ones on my truck out.
 
What shock towers are those on the front?
Ruffstuff. They're absolute overkill like most of their stuff. With the tower and SOA on stock springs, I'm running a 14 inch shock with 5+ inches of up travel and whatever down the spring allows.
 

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