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1. 1996 FZJ80
2. 1HDFT 24 valve Toyota turbo diesel. H151 5 speed. Swap was done for previous own by a guy in Vancouver. When I bought it, it had been _abused_. I spend a couple weeks just cleaning and tuning and fixing stuff. Though I didn't swap it myself, I feel I could do this swap easily and quickly.
3. Everything just... fits. Engine fits perfect, transmission stick comes up in right place.
4. Well... if you want the wiring to be OEM, it would be difficult. But, if you were willing to wire the 1HDFT the way Proffitts wires the 4BT swaps... it would be super simple to swap.
5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any? - intercooled. fuel turned up. 3" mandrel bent exhaust
6. Driving impressions after the swap- "Wow" is the only safe for work word that I can think of. "Perfect". F***ing amazing!!! I was always turned off by the cost of OEM Toyota drivetain... but now I understand. It's heaven. The next time someone says they are choosing a 4BT because of cost, all I will hear in my head is, "CLACKA CLACKA CLACKA CLACKA CLACK"
7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap. - I get 18 city, 22-24 highway.
8. overall difficulty of the swap: ** I mean... you can have the engine swapped out and the new one in, in a couple hours. Then you can spend all your time on the electrical, plumbing and making it look stock.
So silky smooth...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgpAljEBbQ8
There have been a few recent threads about this, thought I'd dredge this up and comment that adapters are available to do this, to bolt a 4BT directly to an FJZ80 automatic.
The 80 series transmission is a huge consideration as is the wiring involved with some of the options and whether or not the end result is right for you.
If you have questions about a 4BT, Isuzu or other non-Toyota diesel I can relate no BS first hand experience.
Without sugar coating anything the mechanical 4BT is a great engine in regards to mileage, power, reliability and low maintenance cost, but it has a tractor noise at idle that is NOT enjoyable to most people. Having daily driven numerous 4BT powered pickups and SUV's my biggest complaint would be shutting the engine off to place drive thru orders. In an 80 series the idle noise isn't bad with the windows rolled up and noise is a non-issue when the vehicle is going down the road- Windows up or down. Gearing is a concern with a 4BT. You really want 1700-1900 at 65 MPH. The idle shakes of a 4BT can be calmed substantially with proper engine mounts and an engine that's in good shape. 4BT's really shake around when something's wrong with them- leaky valves, bad injectors, bad headgasket, but the engine can otherwise have good power, mileage and drive perfect. A 4BT in good condition on decent mounts with idle speed at 850 doesn't shake at idle to the point of irritation. Be careful with hydraulic mounts as they often allow too much engine movement and lack a restraint if the mount fails.
The 4BD1T Isuzu's are good engines, they are more complex than a 4BT, but do offer better top end power out of the box and all 4BD1T's have inline Bosch pumps which most regard as superior to the VE's used on the majority of 4BT's. The Isuzu's have liners and parts aren't too bad to overhaul one. The Isuzu uses V-belt pulleys like the Landcruisers. The Isuzu injection pump is on the passenger side where the Toyota throttle and cruise control cables fit well.
There are FUSO and Hino diesels in the same class that will work, but besides owning a 93 Fuso truck for our machine shop I have no experience swapping one. The Isuzu and Cummins engines have a larger market share in the US and my impression is they have a lower cost of ownership as parts and information are more available.
Beyond the mechanical 4BT and 4BD1T the current generation of commonrail 3.9 and 4.5 4BT engines with rear geartrain (RGT) are an option and offer a lot of power, low noise and smooth idling. These are great engines if you don't mind a little wiring (not much really) and are starting to turn up on the used and surplus market at reasonable prices.
I can't comment on installing a 6.2/6.5 into anything. I've removed several from GM pickups for replacement with alternative engines. A great friend has a repair business specializing in these engines and has been VERY busy for the last 2 decades. 6.2's and 6.5's take the cake for spectacular, unexpected engine failures in my book.
Allmaras Machine
503-545-3731
Who can tell me why my HJ-61 with a 12HT got a consistant 26 mi/gal (imperial), while the newer diesels are less efficient?
Probably the same reason a 1999-2003 vw tdi got 10mpg better than the 2004-2010.
Government regulations.
via mobile app.
The Cummins power plants are very good, but I still believe that if you want to minimize modifications and weight, as well as keep the Toyota transmission, that you would still be better off with a GEP version of the GM 6.2/6.5 diesels. They're less expensive and much quieter, and there is more support for GM/Toyota conversions.
I've seen the redesigned GEP motors go for under $1500 complete from military equipment liquidators in good-to-new condition--much less (a few hundred) for the older GM, as well as all 6.2/6.5 with 40k or more miles on them. They're much better engines than their reputation allows, and many of the shortcomings that do exist can easily be remedied.
Set up correctly, using Marks 4x4 adapter, they make just over 200 HP, and over 400 ft lbs of torque, which is plenty for a drive train that was designed for less. I have a GM 6.2/6.5 with the stronger 599 block, girdled and geared for improved durability, and driven by a mechanical injector pump recalibrated for the factory turbo. It has been my daily driver for over 2 years now and if I keep it at 60 mph I can average 20 mpg. City and hard driving (70-to-80 mph) will drop it down to 16 mpg, but that still is better than the original 10-to-12 mpg I was getting.
I have the older, less desirable 91-92 FJ80 which originally had the 3EFI mated to the A440F automatic. Frankly, anything is better than that tractor engine, and the A440F makes for an easier, more reliable conversion than the A442F electronically controlled unit. There is less ECU/TCU programming and calibration to worry about.
If you take your time to plan it out, you can end up with a very reasonable conversion for less than 12K total investment--including the original FJ80. For me, the most challenging project was fabricating a new exhaust manifold for the turbo to carry the crossover around the front (similar to the Banks unit), and clear the shock tower.
Below are some pictures of my diesel conversion with the V8 turbo engine replacing the in original I6. My goal was to make it look factory and I have been very happy with the results.
Regardless of what motor you use, I hope your project goes well and that you enjoy fruits of your labor.
This is very good info... the only concerns I have is that I have never been a fan of cast Chinese metal products - they never seem to have the fit and finish of something made in Japan, US, or Europe. Although perhaps with Cummins supervision they are built to a higher standard...
The 3.8 will definitely have 80 series fitment issues due to the sump and starter location methinks...
-Phil