Registry Diesel Transplanted 80 series Registry

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I used the diesel tach.
 
1. 1996 FZJ80
2. 1HDFT 24 valve Toyota turbo diesel. H151 5 speed. Swap was done for previous own by a guy in Vancouver. When I bought it, it had been _abused_. I spend a couple weeks just cleaning and tuning and fixing stuff. Though I didn't swap it myself, I feel I could do this swap easily and quickly.
3. Everything just... fits. Engine fits perfect, transmission stick comes up in right place.
4. Well... if you want the wiring to be OEM, it would be difficult. But, if you were willing to wire the 1HDFT the way Proffitts wires the 4BT swaps... it would be super simple to swap.
5. Mods...aside from drivetrain, if any? - intercooled. fuel turned up. 3" mandrel bent exhaust
6. Driving impressions after the swap- "Wow" is the only safe for work word that I can think of. "Perfect". F***ing amazing!!! I was always turned off by the cost of OEM Toyota drivetain... but now I understand. It's heaven. The next time someone says they are choosing a 4BT because of cost, all I will hear in my head is, "CLACKA CLACKA CLACKA CLACKA CLACK"
7. Realistic fuel consumption after the swap. - I get 18 city, 22-24 highway.
8. overall difficulty of the swap: ** I mean... you can have the engine swapped out and the new one in, in a couple hours. Then you can spend all your time on the electrical, plumbing and making it look stock.

So silky smooth...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgpAljEBbQ8

That is a beautiful thing... Wow she's purty!!!
 
There have been a few recent threads about this, thought I'd dredge this up and comment that adapters are available to do this, to bolt a 4BT directly to an FJZ80 automatic.

The 80 series transmission is a huge consideration as is the wiring involved with some of the options and whether or not the end result is right for you.

If you have questions about a 4BT, Isuzu or other non-Toyota diesel I can relate no BS first hand experience.

Without sugar coating anything the mechanical 4BT is a great engine in regards to mileage, power, reliability and low maintenance cost, but it has a tractor noise at idle that is NOT enjoyable to most people. Having daily driven numerous 4BT powered pickups and SUV's my biggest complaint would be shutting the engine off to place drive thru orders. In an 80 series the idle noise isn't bad with the windows rolled up and noise is a non-issue when the vehicle is going down the road- Windows up or down. Gearing is a concern with a 4BT. You really want 1700-1900 at 65 MPH. The idle shakes of a 4BT can be calmed substantially with proper engine mounts and an engine that's in good shape. 4BT's really shake around when something's wrong with them- leaky valves, bad injectors, bad headgasket, but the engine can otherwise have good power, mileage and drive perfect. A 4BT in good condition on decent mounts with idle speed at 850 doesn't shake at idle to the point of irritation. Be careful with hydraulic mounts as they often allow too much engine movement and lack a restraint if the mount fails.

The 4BD1T Isuzu's are good engines, they are more complex than a 4BT, but do offer better top end power out of the box and all 4BD1T's have inline Bosch pumps which most regard as superior to the VE's used on the majority of 4BT's. The Isuzu's have liners and parts aren't too bad to overhaul one. The Isuzu uses V-belt pulleys like the Landcruisers. The Isuzu injection pump is on the passenger side where the Toyota throttle and cruise control cables fit well.

There are FUSO and Hino diesels in the same class that will work, but besides owning a 93 Fuso truck for our machine shop I have no experience swapping one. The Isuzu and Cummins engines have a larger market share in the US and my impression is they have a lower cost of ownership as parts and information are more available.

Beyond the mechanical 4BT and 4BD1T the current generation of commonrail 3.9 and 4.5 4BT engines with rear geartrain (RGT) are an option and offer a lot of power, low noise and smooth idling. These are great engines if you don't mind a little wiring (not much really) and are starting to turn up on the used and surplus market at reasonable prices.

I can't comment on installing a 6.2/6.5 into anything. I've removed several from GM pickups for replacement with alternative engines. A great friend has a repair business specializing in these engines and has been VERY busy for the last 2 decades. 6.2's and 6.5's take the cake for spectacular, unexpected engine failures in my book.

Allmaras Machine
503-545-3731

The 4bt does suffer from the Parkinson shakes at an idle and its due to the motors are not balanced from the factory. I have built a few 4bts balancing the rotating assembly and adding a harmonic balancer. Results , no more shakes and better longevity due to being balanced. I would take a 4bt over a boat anchor sc 1fz any day..
 
Has there been many 1HZ -H55 installed into an FJ80? I did a search and only came up with only two hits. I also looked through this post with no luck. This may be something I look at in the future.
 
FZJ80 to 1HZ built, with full auto

Started the project a few months ago.

1. 1994 FZJ80 Auto, 336,000km

2. Engine 1HZ with new Toyota 1HDT rods and pistons, new cylinder head, diesel pump upgraded with pressure compensation, fully blue printed, all Toyota fastenings and gaskets. Gearbox from 94 1HDT Auto, non electronic valve body A442, transfer case fitted with Marks Adapter centre diff.

3. Complete harness change from 93 1HZ manual, dash from 95 Turbo.

4. Dash, engine and gearbox harness required complete custom re-work as new harness had older style 5 plug harness and dash was later 3 plug. Electronic speedo

Forget the numbers as I cant remember the order.

Garrett 30/73 (from memory) Full ball bearing turbo

I am a qualified mechanic with 30+ years. It was a challenging conversion but all works now. Lots of little differences in the cars, fan depths, change over switches.
Got Lola going this weekend and very happy. :steer::steer::steer:
 
Diesel Efficiency

Who can tell me why my HJ-61 with a 12HT got a consistant 26 mi/gal (imperial), while the newer diesels are less efficient?
 
Who can tell me why my HJ-61 with a 12HT got a consistant 26 mi/gal (imperial), while the newer diesels are less efficient?

Probably the same reason a 1999-2003 vw tdi got 10mpg better than the 2004-2010.

Government regulations.

via mobile app.
 
Probably the same reason a 1999-2003 vw tdi got 10mpg better than the 2004-2010.

Government regulations.

via mobile app.

and they are more powerful but are just as efficient per HP as the old ones.
 
Affordable diesel conversion

The Cummins power plants are very good, but I still believe that if you want to minimize modifications and weight, as well as keep the Toyota transmission, that you would still be better off with a GEP version of the GM 6.2/6.5 diesels. They're less expensive and much quieter, and there is more support for GM/Toyota conversions.

I've seen the redesigned GEP motors go for under $1500 complete from military equipment liquidators in good-to-new condition--much less (a few hundred) for the older GM, as well as all 6.2/6.5 with 40k or more miles on them. They're much better engines than their reputation allows, and many of the shortcomings that do exist can easily be remedied.

Set up correctly, using Marks 4x4 adapter, they make just over 200 HP, and over 400 ft lbs of torque, which is plenty for a drive train that was designed for less. I have a GM 6.2/6.5 with the stronger 599 block, girdled and geared for improved durability, and driven by a mechanical injector pump recalibrated for the factory turbo. It has been my daily driver for over 2 years now and if I keep it at 60 mph I can average 20 mpg. City and hard driving (70-to-80 mph) will drop it down to 16 mpg, but that still is better than the original 10-to-12 mpg I was getting.

I have the older, less desirable 91-92 FJ80 which originally had the 3EFI mated to the A440F automatic. Frankly, anything is better than that tractor engine, and the A440F makes for an easier, more reliable conversion than the A442F electronically controlled unit. There is less ECU/TCU programming and calibration to worry about.

If you take your time to plan it out, you can end up with a very reasonable conversion for less than 12K total investment--including the original FJ80. For me, the most challenging project was fabricating a new exhaust manifold for the turbo to carry the crossover around the front (similar to the Banks unit), and clear the shock tower.

Below are some pictures of my diesel conversion with the V8 turbo engine replacing the in original I6. My goal was to make it look factory and I have been very happy with the results.

Regardless of what motor you use, I hope your project goes well and that you enjoy fruits of your labor.
chevota_enginebay1.webp
chevota_enginebay2.webp
chevota_enginebay3.webp
 
Nice work. that looks like something that rolled out of the factory all right.. The V8 layout looks like it is an easier fit than a cummins..
 
The Cummins power plants are very good, but I still believe that if you want to minimize modifications and weight, as well as keep the Toyota transmission, that you would still be better off with a GEP version of the GM 6.2/6.5 diesels. They're less expensive and much quieter, and there is more support for GM/Toyota conversions.

I've seen the redesigned GEP motors go for under $1500 complete from military equipment liquidators in good-to-new condition--much less (a few hundred) for the older GM, as well as all 6.2/6.5 with 40k or more miles on them. They're much better engines than their reputation allows, and many of the shortcomings that do exist can easily be remedied.

Set up correctly, using Marks 4x4 adapter, they make just over 200 HP, and over 400 ft lbs of torque, which is plenty for a drive train that was designed for less. I have a GM 6.2/6.5 with the stronger 599 block, girdled and geared for improved durability, and driven by a mechanical injector pump recalibrated for the factory turbo. It has been my daily driver for over 2 years now and if I keep it at 60 mph I can average 20 mpg. City and hard driving (70-to-80 mph) will drop it down to 16 mpg, but that still is better than the original 10-to-12 mpg I was getting.

I have the older, less desirable 91-92 FJ80 which originally had the 3EFI mated to the A440F automatic. Frankly, anything is better than that tractor engine, and the A440F makes for an easier, more reliable conversion than the A442F electronically controlled unit. There is less ECU/TCU programming and calibration to worry about.

If you take your time to plan it out, you can end up with a very reasonable conversion for less than 12K total investment--including the original FJ80. For me, the most challenging project was fabricating a new exhaust manifold for the turbo to carry the crossover around the front (similar to the Banks unit), and clear the shock tower.

Below are some pictures of my diesel conversion with the V8 turbo engine replacing the in original I6. My goal was to make it look factory and I have been very happy with the results.

Regardless of what motor you use, I hope your project goes well and that you enjoy fruits of your labor.

I have to say that is the cleanest 6.2/6.5 swap I've ever seen! I certainly appreciate your workmanship.

Personally, I couldn't agree less that the GM diesels are "better engines than their reputation allows". I have quite a bit of diesel engine experience yet not even close to the time some of my diesel repair shop owner friends have and I've seen more wildly catastrophic 6.2/6.5 engine failures than all other engines combined. The redesigned aftermarket engines suffer from the same issues, they just last a little longer with the same limitations. They are cheap to buy and sometimes it feels good to side with the underdog, but "the cheap comes out expensive" is true regarding the 6.2/6.5.

Regarding fitment I feel a 5.9 Cummins is a much better fit into an inline six engine bay. You can change a headgasket on a 5.9 Cummins in an 80 series in a few hours start to finish. Replace a turbo in 20 minutes. Lots of room to work on it if you ever needed to. A 5.9 Cummins has, oh, 50% less parts and clutter than a 6.2/6.5 with a turbo.

A lot of people dislike the noise indirect inject engines like 6.2/6.5's make and really enjoy the sound of an inline Cummins. I would also say that a 6.2/6.5 with the timing cranked to put down 200HP is going to be a lot more obnoxious than a stock mechanical Cummins engine.

A Mechanical 5.9 Cummins is typically a $1200-$2500 engine depending on rated HP and your geographic location. The same "I got one for $500" applies to them as well.

Different strokes for different folks.
 
Gathering information about new ISF 2.8/3.8 engines: Cummings put into production new line of light engines. I believe these are the best match to put into ANY Land Cruiser. As they have way better torque in stock. ISF 3.8 capable of 600 lb-ft!

2.8
http://cumminsengines.com/showcase-...mercial+Vehicle&&Categories=99#specifications

3.8
http://cumminsengines.com/showcase-...mercial+Vehicle&&Categories=99#specifications

This is the 3D of 3.8 given in Youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFR4mBDo0nI

These engines are produced in China in Foton-Cummins plant. And a lot of vans and trucks are getting powered with these engines including 8.5 ton trucks which means they have enough power to handle any type of TLC.

Like the Chinese made Foton truck 3.8 LWB - and it is mated with ZF-5S420 manual trans.
http://www.fotontrucks.com.au/model/isf-3.8-mwb/

There are some interesting pics with that engine in the bay of that truck.

Dimensions given in the Cummins data sheet definitely shows that the engine is smaller than 4BT or any stock engines of 80s. Another thing is the way how they built, Cummins used modular technology. Any engine can be modified for vacuum pump, air compressor, power steering pump can be supplied in any combination. Including AC compressor or they can be supplied with front and rear air compressors. Plus they can be programmed differently for different power/torque output.
I will definitely go in that direction. :) These engines are getting really popular! Even Russians are getting these for mid size vans.

I did some research and contacted dealers in China - FOB terms brand new engine is $ 7 to 10K depending on the accessories and ECM options. It is pretty much the same price for used 1HD-T or 1HD-FT.
 
This is very good info... the only concerns I have is that I have never been a fan of cast Chinese metal products - they never seem to have the fit and finish of something made in Japan, US, or Europe. Although perhaps with Cummins supervision they are built to a higher standard...
 
This is very good info... the only concerns I have is that I have never been a fan of cast Chinese metal products - they never seem to have the fit and finish of something made in Japan, US, or Europe. Although perhaps with Cummins supervision they are built to a higher standard...

That is what I am really hoping too :) Cummins claims that it is still Cummins even it is made in China.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJDdoKT2U28
 
The 3.8 will definitely have 80 series fitment issues due to the sump and starter location methinks...

-Phil
 
The 3.8 will definitely have 80 series fitment issues due to the sump and starter location methinks...

-Phil

I have seen different pics of 3.8 with oil pan turned 180 degrees. And I believe it is also option when ordering engine. With the exhaust - they have Foton Tunland we need to see how it arranged there. Could not find any yet :(

MOD - I have found picture where the oil pan is opposite way. Thanks to modular construction the accessories can be installed on different positions. Contacted Sino-Cummins and asked for more details. So far I got this: standard package includes engine with accessories: ECM, alternator, air compressor (no idea why), power steering pump, AC air compressor, vacuum pump and additional fuel filter with housing. Engine can be preset for certain torque, three options: 450 Nm, 600 Nm and 780 Nm, speed also can be increased up to 3600 RPMs. Extra package includes cruise control for manual trans, 220V heater and aftercooler. Keep digging for more info. By the way they are for sale in South America so can be easily sourced in US.

ISF.webp
 
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well guys i am an old owner of bj74 13bt ,,, but recently got rid of it and bought my self LC80 1hdt with all centre rear and front difflocks, but facing little problem ..when u step on the gas a little bit it smoke like an old bricks oven leaving a smoke cloud ..i know nothing about 1hdt so need help and guidance ..
 

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