Did I.......kill it?

[CodyRx7]

I'm glad it let go on the trail instead of on the highway at 70mph...

Am I going to be needing a new center diff yoke as well or would that piece be part of a new driveshaft?

 

[OGBeno]

You will need at the very least a new u-joint....

I would replace the yoke flange as well while you are in there....

Good luck.
-o-

 

[CodyRx7]

Are they seperate pieces.....as in pic 3?

Or...would buying a new driveshaft come with both parts already connected to a U-joint?

 

[FJBen]

um...where's the grease?

 

[hj60]

Good thing you're re-gearing, no?
I'm pretty sure all those parts come seperately.
I had a similar experience in my 60 turning left across traffic (ironically after leaving the Toyota dealership). Bolts on rear flange backed out/broke. Made diagnosing my vibration a lot easier.
I'd need to see the parts in person as I'm checking this from my cellphone, but I'd have a driveline shop pop on a new yoke and rebalance the shaft if it were mine. Plus you may need the other yoke, too.

 

[jonheld]

Those grease nipples are there for a reason folks...

 

[Doc]

When shopping for my replacement driveshaft I had to specify "yoke to yoke" when ordering. So, I'm guessing that the yokes are seperate items.

When you do your shopping, also call Slee. I bought a used complete (yoke to yoke) shaft from him for around $100 IIRC. Everyone else wanted $100 for a used shaft without yokes, and slee's shipping was cheaper than other folks as well.

2 years later the used shaft is holding up fine.

Mine also let go because of lack of grease. Now I grease them until it oozes out at every oil change. You're lucky it didn't chew up your oil pan or something else.

 

[landtank]

grease every oil change

 

[inkpot]

Are they seperate pieces.....as in pic 3?

Or...would buying a new driveshaft come with both parts already connected to a U-joint?

Howdy! Should come as separate pieces. As others have said, besides a new ujoint, the yoke flange is toast. The yoke on the DS only looks scratched up, but the only way to tell for sure, is to mount the new ujoint int it. The holes should be a snug fit, and the retainer clips should go on fairly easily. Otherwise, it means the holes are stretched, and the ears are not in parallel planes. It it is bad, have a DS shop weld a new yoke onto it. Of course you could take this opportunity to replace the shaft with heavier tube. John

P.S. As already mentioned, ya need to add mo grease, mo often. I grease my DS before every run. Lifted rigs are tuff on ujoints.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

yes.

 

[reffug]

um...where's the grease?

that was my first thought.............

glad someone beat me to it.

 

[CodyRx7]

I grease everything up every 6k miles.

It looks like it was dry for a few hundred if not 1000 of those miles....

Guess I'll have to do checkups down there more often.

I stopped in at the machine shop that upgraded my rear DS and showed them the pieces. They had everything there, and said it would be ready for me tomorrow morning.

If I broke it that fast on a 6" lift...I should break it 33.3% faster on an 8" lift.

 

[elhombre]

Look at it this way. That strange squeeking noise you heard will go away along with that crazy vibration. Take the whole thing to a driveshaft shop and they will spin it to see what is out of line.

 

[e9999]

yup, you killed that Ujoint dead...!

 

[100 TD]

Aren't they "GREASED FOR LIFE"!!!!

 

[Nay]

I'd recommend a DC at this point given the amount of lift you want and the angles those u-joints will be running.

Wear on u-joints increases exponentially after 3 degrees of operating angle, and is really bad at anything over 9 degrees. Your rear driveshaft is going to fit this description @ 8" of lift.

 

[Flank]

You have GOT to cut that joint off and mount it as some sort of trophy, I call that Good work!. Perhaps a club trail run trophy to be passed around for most unfortunate donation to the trail Gods - the whole mess just looks so violent and abused, a thing of art. Excuse me whilst I crawl under the truck to inspect...

 

[knorrena]

Was there any high speed vibration, or any indicators of driveline issues?

Karl

 

[concretejungle]

i think it's a good time to bring up a question. MAF sells "made in Japan" replacement u-joints. I purchased a set for my front driveshaft. Once i got them i realized they do not have a zirk fitting. MAF said they were sealed and shouldn't need extra grease?? WTF? should i be worried about these things?

 

[Flank]

i think it's a good time to bring up a question. MAF sells "made in Japan" replacement u-joints. I purchased a set for my front driveshaft. Once i got them i realized they do not have a zirk fitting. MAF said they were sealed and shouldn't need extra grease?? WTF? should i be worried about these things?

New to the LC board, but based on my experience talking to Tahoe and Explorer o) forums in the past, if you are wheeling your vehicle, I would say categorically YESSSSSS! You should be worried. The reason is the grease in the non zirk joints will eventually wear out, this happens more quickly under stress and hard use. I was told that if your are wheeling, regularly stressing the parts, and getting them dunked alot in the slop, you NEED to be able to make sure there is fresh grease in there. The "lifetime- no grease" fittings are just cheaper because they require less manufacturing time to put together.