Diagnose knock in 2LTE (3 Viewers)

[digitalbuck]

I wrote a couple of weeks ago that I was looking at an engine swap because I thought I might have dropped a lock washer into the air intake on my LJ78. When I put it back together and started it, after about 60 seconds it started a loud knock. I am just guessing about the washer. My mechanic has been looking at it and here is what he has found so far. He doesn't know the engine so I'm looking for advice.

1. He ran a scope down the intake but there was so much carbon he couldn't see anything. Good news he didn't see anything obviously wrong.

2. Removed the valve covers and inspected and found no problem there. He couldn't get his scope inside the head because of the ports.

3. Dropped the oil pan to look for metal in the oil. Found zero chunks or shavings. He did find pieces of hard carbon.

4. Next I'm asking him to pull the head and inspect it and the springs.

So I'm eager for advice. I'm encouraged that there are no fragments of metal in the oil. It ran for a good five minutes after starting to knock sonic pretty sure there would be metal in the oil if it ate a washer. He is convinced that the sound is coming from the upper end. It's a definite knock, not just a tapping. It's an ugly noise.

What should I have him look for? Where is the best source for a new head of I need one, or just the head bolts, gasket, etc. If I dont need a new head? What else should be done while he has it apart? What's with all of that carbon?

Thanks for any help guys. I'm in southeast Florida and there doesn't seem to be a lot of Toyota Diesel knowledge residing in these parts!

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Can you take a video of it running and post a link?

Advanced injection timing can give some very loud knock that sounds mechanical but is not. Do you have a check engine light on? Have you pulled the codes? What work were you doing on the engine when this started? (the work where you thought you dropped something in the intake).

 

[digitalbuck]

Didn't check codes. Cant take a video of it running because the oil pan and valve cover are off and the head will be coming off tomorrow if I dont stop him!

No check engine light. I had taken off the intercooler and put the stock intake back on as I'm planning to redesign the intercooler setup. Got it all back together and started it, checking to make sure all the intake connections were right, and after running about 60 seconds and revving it a bit the knock started.

How do you check injection timing?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Didn't check codes. Cant take a video of it running because the oil pan and valve cover are off and the head will be coming off tomorrow if I dont stop him!

No check engine light. I had taken off the intercooler and put the stock intake back on as I'm planning to redesign the intercooler setup. Got it all back together and started it, checking to make sure all the intake connections were right, and after running about 60 seconds and revving it a bit the knock started.

How do you check injection timing?

When you removed the intercooler, did you have to disconnect or move the wiring harness at all? How about the injection lines?

The base timing is set by matching marks on the outter mounting flange of the injection pump. The computer then reads the crank angle sensor and compares it to another position sensor (NE) in the injection pump. The computer adjusts the timing with the timing control valve in the injection pump. If the computer does not see the right injection timing, it throws an error code and the check engine light comes on.

Will be interesting to see what the mechanic finds when he pulls the head.

Does your mechanic have the manual for this motor?

 

[digitalbuck]

When you removed the intercooler, did you have to disconnect or move the wiring harness at all? How about the injection lines?

The base timing is set by matching marks on the outter mounting flange of the injection pump. The computer then reads the crank angle sensor and compares it to another position sensor (NE) in the injection pump. The computer adjusts the timing with the timing control valve in the injection pump. If the computer does not see the right injection timing, it throws an error code and the check engine light comes on.

Will be interesting to see what the mechanic finds when he pulls the head.

Does your mechanic have the manual for this motor?

No, I didn't remove anything except the mount for the throttle cable that mounts on the intake. I didn't knowingly mess with anything else, the intake itself is very simple and easy to get at.

The mechanic does have an electronic copy of the shop manual.

 

[digitalbuck]

Just spoke with the mechanic to ask him to check the timing marks on the injector pump before tearing into the head. He said to him the sound was more of a rattlenthan a knock and it seemed to be coming from the back of the engine in the upper end.

 

[SNLC]

Injector knock is also possible. Generally it is not loud though.

Cheers

 

[digitalbuck]

Just heard back from the mechanic. He found the lock washer imbedded in the #4 cylinder, a bent valve stem and a mess.

Any advice on where to find a replacement 2LTE? I'm in Florida. And what should I expect for labor costs to do the swap?

Or... Anyone looking for a very nice Prado for parts?

 

[SNLC]

Just heard back from the mechanic. He found the lock washer imbedded in the #4 cylinder, a bent valve stem and a mess.

Any advice on where to find a replacement 2LTE? I'm in Florida. And what should I expect for labor costs to do the swap?

Or... Anyone looking for a very nice Prado for parts?

Is your Prado RHD? If it is LHD I could be interested in taking it off your hands.

I suggest you drop in a 1UZ.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Also FYI, I have seen 1KZs on ebay. 3L from a Hilux would go nice in it too, that came in LJ79's. And then there is the R2.8 from Cummins.

Cheers

 

[digitalbuck]

RHD. I would be interested in a 1UZ, but would need to make sure my mechanic has plenty of guidance and documentation on the install. This truck is in fantastic condition except for the engine obviously...

 

[digitalbuck]

I would go with a 1KZ in a heartbeat if I had someone creative to do the swap.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I would go with a 1KZ in a heartbeat if I had someone creative to do the swap.

Sorry to hear about the washer in the motor.

If you bought a 1KZTE from a KZJ78, the swap should not be that hard. As long as it came with every thing (bell housing, ECU, wiring). I think changing the engine mounts on the frame would be the main difficulty.

You could also look at buying a newer generation 2LTE which came from the factory with the late model better cylinder head. It would be basically drop in with some simple things like swapping the oil pan.

If you wanted to rebuild, I have a good set of crank/rods/pistons.

The later model 2LTE looks like this. I don't think there are any on EBay right now, but you could always call an engine importer and see what they have.

In any case, it seems like it would be a shame to scrap your truck.

 

[AirheadNut]

I've got a complete, running 2L-TE with 70k miles on it, but I think it needs a cylinder head. It would be perfect if you wanted to do a 5-speed swap, it comes with a manual ECU, and an R150f and bell housing.

 

[Dprio34]

There is a importer right in MIA (A-1 Used Autos) that often posts 2L, 3L, and other diesels on Ebay. I just checked, and I didn't see any listed today, but if you live there, look in the yellow pages. There are several JDM importers right in South FL.

There is a guy in Hialeah that has a KZ listed right now for $2100 on miamicraigslist.

But generally, on ebay,
L motors usually go for 2-2.5K
KZ motors usually start at 3.5K, but you 'll need to move the motor mounts and leghen & shorten drive shafts. That will be a lot of labor costs if you don't do it yourself and end up taking it to a shop.

Not sure on the other motors.

 

[digitalbuck]

There is a importer right in MIA (A-1 Used Autos) that often posts 2L, 3L, and other diesels on Ebay. I just checked, and I didn't see any listed today, but if you live there, look in the yellow pages. There are several JDM importers right in South FL.

There is a guy in Hialeah that has a KZ listed right now for $2100 on miamicraigslist.

But generally, on ebay,
L motors usually go for 2-2.5K
KZ motors usually start at 3.5K, but you 'll need to move the motor mounts and leghen & shorten drive shafts. That will be a lot of labor costs if you don't do it yourself and end up taking it to a shop.

Not sure on the other motors.

Thanks for the heads up. I didn't find that KZ on craigslist, any chance you could direct me to it?

 

[Dprio34]

Here you go:

JDM TOYOTA HILUX SURF HIACE 1KZTE 3.0L TURBO DIESEL

 

[digitalbuck]

Thanks Brother!

 

[Dprio34]

You are most welcome! That why we are here on the forum! Trying to help each other!

 

[digitalbuck]

I've been searching for a build thread that actually documents a 1KZ-TE going into a Prado in place of a 2LTE. Can't find a thing anywhere. Do any of you know of someone who has actually done the swap and is available to answer some questions?