You need to talk to the New Zealand crowd. I believe a number of guys there have done this swap. @kbushnz
Diagnose knock in 2LTE
- Thread starter digitalbuck
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You need to talk to the New Zealand crowd. I believe a number of guys there have done this swap. @kbushnz
The 1kz-te would be sweet. Also the 13bt seems to fit decent as well. The 1uz fits but it is for sure a bit of work.
I am regretting my decision to go 1uz as our gas prices are climbing... Starting to see 1.60/liter (6 bucks a gallon here)
I am regretting my decision to go 1uz as our gas prices are climbing... Starting to see 1.60/liter (6 bucks a gallon here)
yes the 1KZ would fit but I would look for an engine which is plentiful in your part of the world...Then you have spare part support...
I run a 1KZ so can assist with some questions... But if you wanted to keep the electronic pump you would need a donor vehicle with full wiring loom etc etc.... Otherwise it starts getting hard....
I run a 1KZ so can assist with some questions... But if you wanted to keep the electronic pump you would need a donor vehicle with full wiring loom etc etc.... Otherwise it starts getting hard....
I think a rebuild or replace with the same engine is the best most economical way to go. New cylinder head (even a 3L one) + rebuild kit + rebuild labor = <$2000 dollars and you have basically a brand new engine. You would probably need to pull the engine yourself but that is really easy. Kind of intimidating if you have never done it before but totally worth doing because they will probably charge you double to do it for you.
Engine rebuild kit $472.99:
Engine Rebuild Kit Toyota 2L-T 4cyl Hilux Surf 2.4L Turbo from 08/88 wO/S Piston | eBay
3L head $828.75:
Toyota 3L 2.8Ltr Diesel Cylinder Head - Complete With Valves & Cam. | eBay
So a shade over $1300 plus shipping for all the parts you need. Say shipping is $150ish so $1450 for everything you need to get the engine back together running like a top.
I haven't rebuilt an engine in a long time now, but the guy that I used to use to machine my blocks charged me 300 dollars to hot tank, bore/sleeve if needed, and deck it. All I had to do was take him the block and the new pistons. That is the majority of the work in building an engine. I can't imagine they would charge too much more for assembly but I always did that myself. I am sure you could look for quotes and factor that in to your parts cost. Unless you can come up with a super cheap running 2L-TE, it sure seems like the best way to go...
Engine rebuild kit $472.99:
Engine Rebuild Kit Toyota 2L-T 4cyl Hilux Surf 2.4L Turbo from 08/88 wO/S Piston | eBay
3L head $828.75:
Toyota 3L 2.8Ltr Diesel Cylinder Head - Complete With Valves & Cam. | eBay
So a shade over $1300 plus shipping for all the parts you need. Say shipping is $150ish so $1450 for everything you need to get the engine back together running like a top.
I haven't rebuilt an engine in a long time now, but the guy that I used to use to machine my blocks charged me 300 dollars to hot tank, bore/sleeve if needed, and deck it. All I had to do was take him the block and the new pistons. That is the majority of the work in building an engine. I can't imagine they would charge too much more for assembly but I always did that myself. I am sure you could look for quotes and factor that in to your parts cost. Unless you can come up with a super cheap running 2L-TE, it sure seems like the best way to go...
I’d agree with @44Runner, but only thing I’d add is the 3L/2L OEM Head can now be purchased here in the USA at a reasonable price. I believe this may be the bare head price, but it appears to be available.
- Thread starter
- #26
Sorry to hear about the washer in the motor.
If you bought a 1KZTE from a KZJ78, the swap should not be that hard. As long as it came with every thing (bell housing, ECU, wiring). I think changing the engine mounts on the frame would be the main difficulty.
You could also look at buying a newer generation 2LTE which came from the factory with the late model better cylinder head. It would be basically drop in with some simple things like swapping the oil pan.
If you wanted to rebuild, I have a good set of crank/rods/pistons.
The later model 2LTE looks like this. I don't think there are any on EBay right now, but you could always call an engine importer and see what they have.
In any case, it seems like it would be a shame to scrap your truck.
Do you happen to know if the motor mounts will line up between this newer 2lte and a 1990 LJ78? I found one and am ready to order it but I want to make sure it will bolt in without a lot of fabrication
All the "L" series should be interchangeable with regard to the motor mounts.
However, some differences occur depending on whether the motor came out of a LHD vehicle or RHD vehicle.
The mounting points on the motors have the bracket for the power steering pump integral.
That may need to be swapped around. Bottom line, don't toss the old motor till you know what you have.
Back to the original question, the motor mounts on the frame, should be in the same location.
NO welding/fabrication involved there.
However, some differences occur depending on whether the motor came out of a LHD vehicle or RHD vehicle.
The mounting points on the motors have the bracket for the power steering pump integral.
That may need to be swapped around. Bottom line, don't toss the old motor till you know what you have.
Back to the original question, the motor mounts on the frame, should be in the same location.
NO welding/fabrication involved there.
- Thread starter
- #28
Thanks Dprio34!
@digitalbuck just curious where did you find the replacement motor?
Recommend yanking the EGR system while it is out of the vehicle and blanking off the exhaust manifold with at least
3/16 steel. Don't worry about a gasket between the black off plate and manifold. Just use the black RTV there.
The butterfly on the intake can be a PITA to pull out, but just take your time.
Recommend yanking the EGR system while it is out of the vehicle and blanking off the exhaust manifold with at least
3/16 steel. Don't worry about a gasket between the black off plate and manifold. Just use the black RTV there.
The butterfly on the intake can be a PITA to pull out, but just take your time.
The block and head are externally the same as your old 2LTE. So everything that bolted to your old 2LTE will bolt to the new one.
I can tell you for sure that the oil pan is one thing you'll have to swap. Maybe the pick-up too.
Easiest way to know the subtle differences is ask the importer exactly what vehicle the engine came out of. Go to Megazip and find the vehicle. Compare the drawings and part numbers to your vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #31
If the engine came out of a 2wd vehicle can the original tranny be mated up to the new engine? And how much labor is that going to be for the mechanic if it works? The engine I'm looking at is out of a RWD 4Runner. and it's listed as "Toyota 4 Runner 2.4L EFI Diesel Turbo Engine Automatic RWD Trans ECU JDM 2L-TE #2
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Yes, your current transmission/bell housing will work on that motor. You'll want to use your existing computer and wiring harness. You might have to swap the thermostat housing and a couple things like that also.
I was not aware the 4 Runner's came with the newer 2L-TE. Make sure it looks like the one in the picture I posted. If you good pictures of the motor and there is a picture of the ECU, you can enter the part number into toyodiy and it'll tell you what vehicle it came from.
- Thread starter
- #33
The engine looks like the one you posted, with the cast crosspiece instead of the printed one. It also shows the air intake crossing over but I assume that's no problem to disconnect. The pic of the ECU doesn't show a number but it does show an engine number.
There is also an older style 2lte available with a 4wd tranny attached. Would that be enough simpler to make it a better choice? Thanks guys. Just really eager to get my ring back on the road!
There is also an older style 2lte available with a 4wd tranny attached. Would that be enough simpler to make it a better choice? Thanks guys. Just really eager to get my ring back on the road!
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OK, so yes, that is the newer 2LTE. The reason I recommend it, is it has the newer model cylinder head that is much more resistant to cracking. (The earlier cylinder heads ALL CRACK around 100,000km, so you really want to avoid those engines, as either you'll have to put a new head on, or it's already been done and might have been done poorly or have bottom end damage too - I've seen many like that).
The 4Runner thing is BS. I looked up the ECU part number and it's for a 1995-1999 Toyota Crown Comfort (LXS11).
OK, looking at that motor, basically what you are buying is a good condition long block. You're going to have to swap a number of things over from your old motor now that I look at it. At least the: oil pan, oil pickup, oil cooler, accessories and accessory brackets, bellhousing and transmission. Like I say, you'll want to use your old wiring harness and ECU. The starter might need to be swapped. I can see the thermostat housing and turbo are different also, but if you can make these work in your Prado, then do it, as they are likely improved over the original designs.
This swap is relatively simple and hopefully does not cost you too much. While the motor is out, remove the EGR system and install block-off plates.
I think this is definitely a better option then a rebuild. Also, I've seen the same model of engine without the wiring and ECU for $500USD less on Ebay before. Being that you don't need that stuff anyhow....
One warning. Having had my engine out before, I can tell you the OEM wiring harness is brittle and can become damaged during the process. Give your mechanic a warning about this. It could cause you all sorts of grief after the fact otherwise. I had to make a bunch of repairs on my harness when I swapped my rebuilt motor back in.
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- #36
Thanks again. You're always an amazing help. I've forwarded your note to my mechanic. He may have some questions for you once he gets the engine in hand.
I will definitely remove the EGR before having him install it, and will also set up my intercooler on the inside fender wall while the engine is out. Looking forward to having El Troque back on the road. Then I'm planning on putting it up for sale and moving into an HZJ-77 for the long term.
I will definitely remove the EGR before having him install it, and will also set up my intercooler on the inside fender wall while the engine is out. Looking forward to having El Troque back on the road. Then I'm planning on putting it up for sale and moving into an HZJ-77 for the long term.
Why do you want to go with an HZJ77 out of curiosity? Do you plan to turbo it?
- Thread starter
- #38
Because I love my LJ78 but want the heavy duty Cruiser. Probably will turbo it eventually.
When properly tuned and mated to an Intercooler, the 1HZ will really come alive.
How about you make a heavy duty LJ78.
Ask your mechanic if he can do this for you: