- Thread starter
- #21
I am going to pop the solenoid off and start there
Definitive list of starter removal methods (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tbisaacs
- Start date
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I am going to pop the solenoid off and start there
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Cool, looking forward to hearing your progress and how it works out. I have been hoping someone would start a thread like this before I needed to tackle my starter. So this is much appreciated
!
bloc
SILVER Star
Exactly.
The process for bypassing the solenoid if/when it fails is quite involved and needs special tools plus at least one other person. This is a scenario I’d like to avoid on a lonely gravel road in Utah.
What special tools? Don’t get me wrong, I keep a pretty solid selection in the the vehicle but nothing beats access to my home box and if I need to add something useful I’m always looking for a reason to buy new tools.
- Thread starter
- #25
You need to bypass the solenoid, so big long metal pokey thing like a screw driver or pry bar. You then need to energize the pokey thing so jumper wire or jumper cable from positive battery terminal to the pokey thing.
And hope not to burn it all down in the process.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
A little accidental welding never hurt anything.
bloc
SILVER Star
There's nothing in the area that would be likely to keep burning once the juice was shut off.. but it would make quite a show.
bloc
SILVER Star
I tried the extra-long insulated screwdriver trick and couldn't reach the right spot on the starter for the life of me. While I usually do my own maintenance, this is one I was glad to send to the dealership (due to time constraints, but still glad it worked out that way). 
- Thread starter
- #32
I’m not quite done yet but the old starter is out:
This job is no joke. Much respect to those who have already tackled it. If it ever goes out again I’m just trading the truck in lol.
Notes so far:
I disconnected the coolant lines from the transmission but you might be able to get away with just loosening the keeper though. If you go this route have pan to catch you coolant. Hilarity ensued for me:
I got at the two bolts holding starter to the block with a wobble and a lot (I mean a lot) of extensions:
The top heat shield bolt is quite literally torture. Like one flat at a time once it breaks loose.
Once I got this far I attempted to take the solenoid loose but couldn’t get the starter clocked around far enough. To solve this I followed one of the tips above and disconnected two of the clips holding the cable that goes to the starter. They are both along the frame and a pain to find.
Once I got the cable loose I was able to disconnect the 12mm bolt holding it on and the trigger wire. Once that was loose I could clock the starter and get the solenoid off.
Final unlock was disconnecting the mid-pipe. I believe that @TeCKis300 called this method. I don’t know what else I could move out of the way TBH. I didn’t disconnect the O2 sensors, just the 3 stud bolts (14mm) and 2 spring clamp bolts (also 14 I think) and just shoved the pipe out of the way.
Also worth mentioning I didn’t remove my ARB skids. It may have save some time fussing with the power cable but I got around it.
This job is no joke. Much respect to those who have already tackled it. If it ever goes out again I’m just trading the truck in lol.
Notes so far:
I disconnected the coolant lines from the transmission but you might be able to get away with just loosening the keeper though. If you go this route have pan to catch you coolant. Hilarity ensued for me:
I got at the two bolts holding starter to the block with a wobble and a lot (I mean a lot) of extensions:
The top heat shield bolt is quite literally torture. Like one flat at a time once it breaks loose.
Once I got this far I attempted to take the solenoid loose but couldn’t get the starter clocked around far enough. To solve this I followed one of the tips above and disconnected two of the clips holding the cable that goes to the starter. They are both along the frame and a pain to find.
Once I got the cable loose I was able to disconnect the 12mm bolt holding it on and the trigger wire. Once that was loose I could clock the starter and get the solenoid off.
Final unlock was disconnecting the mid-pipe. I believe that @TeCKis300 called this method. I don’t know what else I could move out of the way TBH. I didn’t disconnect the O2 sensors, just the 3 stud bolts (14mm) and 2 spring clamp bolts (also 14 I think) and just shoved the pipe out of the way.
Also worth mentioning I didn’t remove my ARB skids. It may have save some time fussing with the power cable but I got around it.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
How much time invested so far?
- Thread starter
- #34
- Thread starter
- #36
I believe the book for this is 6-8 hours labor plus parts (starter, manifold gasket etc).
Local Lexus dealer did it for $1050. Local reputable toy/lex indy wanted $1200.
- Thread starter
- #38
Here's a good look at the two generations of Denso starters. Beside size, other curious difference is that the cable from solenoid to motor is no longer insulated:
Also new starter is Denso MFG Tennessee and original is Denso Japan
Also new starter is Denso MFG Tennessee and original is Denso Japan
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Well that is weird. I’d probably insulate just in case. Could that be an error?
- Thread starter
- #40
I'm not going to second guess it, these are in a million tundra's and sequoias. Very little chance of it arcing against something. I think you'd make a mess of the winding if you undid the bolt to wrap it.
Also for those brave enough to make a manual jumper with a screw driver, this would make it much easier
