Definitive list of starter removal methods

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32cls6speedmt said:
The book value is about 3.5 to 4 hours dependent which dealership or independent mechanic shop for labor.
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I don’t doubt that but seems shockingly low given that the manifold comes off etc but then again I’m just and idiot on the internet lol
 
tbisaacs said:
I'm not going to second guess it, these are in a million tundra's and sequoias. Very little chance of it arcing against something. I think you'd make a mess of the winding if you undid the bolt to wrap it.

Also for those brave enough to make a manual jumper with a screw driver, this would make it much easier
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Why do you need to manually jump this for the install?
 
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I have an extra starter in the truck just in case. I purchased it in 2020 when prices dropped from cool springs Toyota. I made sure it was not a remanufactured. My denso is also manufactured in Tennessee and wire exposed.
 
After another 5-6 hours of wrestling the starter is in and the truck is running.

Couple more notes on install for future installers:

You’ll have to install with solenoid disconnected. Just be sure to hook the solenoid plunger in between the fork of the motor.

After you reinstall solenoid you need to get the snout of the starter into the flywheel - close enough is fine.

Then you can reattach the power wire and the trigger wire. This is a pain and took me like an hour of grunting. The clip of my trigger wire of course broke so I jammed it full of dielectric grease and crossed my fingers. Once you get it in place there is lots of pressure holding it in. Gonna try to not lose sleep about this.

The bottom starter bolt is easy to reinstall but the top is a beating. The bolt is really long and the coolant hoses are too rigid to move out of the way. You have to push the starter toward front of truck as much as possible and painfully start the top bolt making 1/8 turn at a time progress.

Next you can reinstall the heat shield. I didn’t bother with top bolt. F that sucker. The foil gets super mangled going back in and there is no eat to avoid it. I found that installing the front bolt first made it easier to stretch it back in place and then install rear bolt. I then used a pry bar to try to shape it back to normal.

Then reconnect the coolant pipes.

Then reconnect the mid pipe

Then reconnect dipstick. This was a huge pain and I cannot get the tiny 10mm bolt into the keeper that mounts it to the head. Zip tied for now.

Check your coolant. I lost a ton.

Reinstall the outer heat shield. Again front to back worked better for me.

The fender aprons and wheel. Reconnect battery, pray to divine diety of choice and press start.

Omg.
 
tbisaacs said:
After another 5-6 hours of wrestling the starter is in and the truck is running.

Couple more notes on install for future installers:

You’ll have to install with solenoid disconnected. Just be sure to hook the solenoid plunger in between the fork of the motor.

After you reinstall solenoid you need to get the snout of the starter into the flywheel - close enough is fine.

Then you can reattach the power wire and the trigger wire. This is a pain and took me like an hour of grunting. The clip of my trigger wire of course broke so I jammed it full of dielectric grease and crossed my fingers. Once you get it in place there is lots of pressure holding it in. Gonna try to not lose sleep about this.

The bottom starter bolt is easy to reinstall but the top is a beating. The bolt is really long and the coolant hoses are too rigid to move out of the way. You have to push the starter toward front of truck as much as possible and painfully start the top bolt making 1/8 turn at a time progress.

Next you can reinstall the heat shield. I didn’t bother with top bolt. F that sucker. The foil gets super mangled going back in and there is no eat to avoid it. I found that installing the front bolt first made it easier to stretch it back in place and then install rear bolt. I then used a pry bar to try to shape it back to normal.

Then reconnect the coolant pipes.

Then reconnect the mid pipe

Then reconnect dipstick. This was a huge pain and I cannot get the tiny 10mm bolt into the keeper that mounts it to the head. Zip tied for now.

Check your coolant. I lost a ton.

Reinstall the outer heat shield. Again front to back worked better for me.

The fender aprons and wheel. Reconnect battery, pray to divine diety of choice and press start.

Omg.
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Dealership it is!! 😂
 
Nice job working through it and getting the job completed. Well done. I admire your dedication to seeing the project to completion. After seeing how this unfolded I am torn between removing rhe exhaust manifold to change my starter or just dropping it off at the shop and writing a check.
 
Given all of that anyone with manifold nuts that still resemble steel should just remove the manifold.

Also I believe @bjowett did a write up on the old starter vs the new. I think he recommended replacing the solenoid on the original to keep the larger motor and possibly other advantages.
 
Given my current mileage per year I’m probably 10-15 years away from this job. My 45 year old brain is tempted by the challenge, I’m betting my future self, while tempted, will want to find a shop to complete the task.
 
@tbisaacs thank you for the write up and finishing up the task. You have earned yourself a few beers or some of the great bourbon. Will havea pour of Weller larue Weller in your honor.
 
Congrats to winning the battle. With that underneath your belt, there's probably not much you can't do.

Wondering if you think car care nuts rant is deserved now? :)
 
32cls6speedmt said:
@tbisaacs thank you for the write up and finishing up the task. You have earned yourself a few beers or some of the great bourbon. Will havea pour of Weller larue Weller in your honor.
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Thanks! I’ve got a nice bottle of hibiki harmony to make my way through 🥃
 
TeCKis300 said:
Congrats to winning the battle. With that underneath your belt, there's probably not much you can't do.

Wondering if you think car care nuts rant is deserved now? :)
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lol for sure 🙌🏻
 
tbisaacs said:
Something I didn’t expect, the new starter sounds distinctly different. Higher pitched and faster whirrrr.
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It’s young and eager to get spinning, get some years on that thing and I bet it will sound like the one you just took out.
 
tbisaacs said:
Something I didn’t expect, the new starter sounds distinctly different. Higher pitched and faster whirrrr.
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You'll soon get use to the new tone. Starts strong as ever.
 
I’ll add a note that if you are doing this job, get a replacement o-ring (bottom) for your dipstick tube, they are a known failure point and leak source on these 5.7s. I also replaced the dipstick and tube when I did this on my Sequoia, I had noticed the old dipstick tube didn’t seem long enough which prevented being able to secure it at the top to the block without pulling it slightly out at the bottom.
 
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JakeTheSnakeNH said:
I’ll add a note that if you are doing this job, get a replacement o-ring (botom) for your dipstick tube, they are a known failure point and leak source on these 5.7s. I also replaced the dipstick and tube when I did this on my Sequoia, I had noticed the old dipstick tube didn’t seem long enough which prevented being able to secure it at the top to the block without pulling it slightly out at the bottom.
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Happen to have a part number?
 
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