So in reading this. 4.30's would be optimal for my 2013 with 33" tires.
Is anyone using this combo?
Is anyone using this combo?
Definitive 200-series Gearing Reference (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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We've set 200 diffs up in 4.30 flavor, I've not personally driven it but the owner is happy. That is what I'd likely do to my own if making a change.
If you just do tires and nothing more . . . But if you do more weight screw up the aero with bumpers and roof stuff and then go to bigger tires I bet you’ll want 4.88.
FWIW I drove on 32” during break-in and it was super fun with 4.88s. Like go cart fun, like having 150 extra hp
FWIW I drove on 32” during break-in and it was super fun with 4.88s. Like go cart fun, like having 150 extra hp
bloc
SILVER Star
Also with 4.30 you can run OEM toyota gears which appear to be much higher quality than any aftermarket.
But yes grinchy is correct.. aero and weight should factor into gear choice. RTT, aluboxes on the roof, front bumper with a ton of exposed tire, max tracks all over, 40gal aux tank and 1000 extra pounds.. in terms of the hp/load requirements on the engine you are basically towing a big heavy trailer 24/7.. aiming for lower gearing (which provides higher rpms and therefore hp for a given road speed) should be the goal.
But yes grinchy is correct.. aero and weight should factor into gear choice. RTT, aluboxes on the roof, front bumper with a ton of exposed tire, max tracks all over, 40gal aux tank and 1000 extra pounds.. in terms of the hp/load requirements on the engine you are basically towing a big heavy trailer 24/7.. aiming for lower gearing (which provides higher rpms and therefore hp for a given road speed) should be the goal.
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Saving up for the gear change. Is there anything special about changing the front gears? One shop I talked to mentioned it required special tools and I would be best sending the the third member to a shop in AZ.
- Thread starter
- #26
To answer your question, yes, it takes more skill and resources to do the front gears because of the clamshell housing assembly. It's tricky to measure the backlash setting and I would only leave this to an experienced shop.
That said, there's a number of ways to attack this and depends on what you intend to do. If doing 4.88 or front locker, you have no choice but to crack open the assembly. More time and labor, and a specialized operation.
If doing only 4.3s without a locker, there's an easy button. Source a Tundra front diff assembly (with tow package). It comes pre-loaded with 4.3 gears. The assembly as a whole will drop in, shortening the labor required by half. Refer to the link in my sig for more detail on this strategy.
If the shop doesn't specialize in gears you might want to send the third members to a shop that does. Screwing up a gear change can be an expensive repair
Zuk is the gold standard for rebuilds.
When I saw "AZ" he was the guy I was thinking, just couldn't remember the name. The fact that he's OCD enough to document everything around the gear settings, backlash, etc for every build would be enough to sell me on him alone.
Does ZUK have a website ?
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I know we don't drive Land Cruisers for the gas mileage. I am curious how 4.88's will affect the mileage? I would think since the engine is working less pulling the trailer , I might see an improvement on the mileage.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I'm certainly no expert and have no practical experience to draw from, but I have been party to discussions of this question a few times and the consensus seems to be that it would benefit MPG.
On 4.88s and 35s I get roughly 10-12 city and I see as high as 16 mph on highway.
Wheel and tire weight per corner is around 95 lb.
Point is mileage isn’t worse, but not really better.
Wheel and tire weight per corner is around 95 lb.
Point is mileage isn’t worse, but not really better.
Thanks for the feedback . I have 33's.
- Thread starter
- #36
If one needs gears, then it's generally true it can help mpg. It does depend on specific build, use and aero, and is not always true.
From my experience on the 6-speed having recently gone from stock 3.9s to 4.3s, on 33s and towing, I actually lost about .5 MPG towing longer distances. Because stock gearing in 4th and 33s, made for a nice 4.5 gear that put me at the optimal highway RPM. Re-gearing made 4th more aggressive than necessary for cruise, while just being able to grab 5th but at too high a load to be efficient and hold the torque converter locked.
Around town, my mileage should be better as the engine doesn't have to lug as hard getting going, but it's more variable and harder to measure.
I'd definitely still re-gear as the performance advantages, accelerating and engine braking, outweigh the cruising MPG loss. Going to 35s should put me at a slightly better middle ground.
The 8-speed having so many ratios probably can always find a good gear for every situation.
From my experience on the 6-speed having recently gone from stock 3.9s to 4.3s, on 33s and towing, I actually lost about .5 MPG towing longer distances. Because stock gearing in 4th and 33s, made for a nice 4.5 gear that put me at the optimal highway RPM. Re-gearing made 4th more aggressive than necessary for cruise, while just being able to grab 5th but at too high a load to be efficient and hold the torque converter locked.
Around town, my mileage should be better as the engine doesn't have to lug as hard getting going, but it's more variable and harder to measure.
I'd definitely still re-gear as the performance advantages, accelerating and engine braking, outweigh the cruising MPG loss. Going to 35s should put me at a slightly better middle ground.
The 8-speed having so many ratios probably can always find a good gear for every situation.
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So for 8 speed, there is no need for re-gearing if you're going 33s-35s?
First gear on the 8 speed is lower and you have more intermediate gear options so from what I've read others say it's not necessarily required. That said the difference between stock 31s and 35s is sufficient enough that you may want to swap up to 3.90s, especially if you have any aftermarket exterior mods which may impact aerodynamics, in order to get back to stock gearing.
I have an 8-speed on 34’s. Fully armored, with 24 gallon aux tank, drawers full o junk. Heavy.
I live at 7,300’ and commonly do hard-core wheeling at 9,000’+.
Regarded to 3.9’s.
Current observations:
* Forest service roads: I use high because low is too low
* 4x4 trails: low; there is *plenty* of power available
* Around town: transmission and gearing are perfect (with ECT full time)
* Freeway up to about 65: Effortless
* Freeway >65: Enough foot pressure and downshifting that I notice it. Not bad or uncomfortable, but not effortless (for the rig).
Soon, I’ll be towing a 5K trailer. Wondering if I’ll wish I went to 4.3’s, particularly on the freeway.
In direct answer to your question: I don’t think you need gears merely for 33’s-34’s. Start getting heavy and crippling the aerodynamics and you get into the “maybe” zone. Add towing and/or altitude, and my view is you’re in the “you should strongly consider” zone. These rigs are incredibly powerful and versatile - even with all the above, you’d likely still be drivable without gears.
I live at 7,300’ and commonly do hard-core wheeling at 9,000’+.
Regarded to 3.9’s.
Current observations:
* Forest service roads: I use high because low is too low
* 4x4 trails: low; there is *plenty* of power available
* Around town: transmission and gearing are perfect (with ECT full time)
* Freeway up to about 65: Effortless
* Freeway >65: Enough foot pressure and downshifting that I notice it. Not bad or uncomfortable, but not effortless (for the rig).
Soon, I’ll be towing a 5K trailer. Wondering if I’ll wish I went to 4.3’s, particularly on the freeway.
In direct answer to your question: I don’t think you need gears merely for 33’s-34’s. Start getting heavy and crippling the aerodynamics and you get into the “maybe” zone. Add towing and/or altitude, and my view is you’re in the “you should strongly consider” zone. These rigs are incredibly powerful and versatile - even with all the above, you’d likely still be drivable without gears.
You’ve described my intended use and current build pretty much spot on. I won’t be getting this vehicle until February but I decided to hold off on gearing until I drive and tow for a little bit. I’ll be eagerly awaiting your comments on towing as your trailer weight is pretty dang close to what I’ll be towing. Will you be towing exclusively on pavement or is this more of a overland off-road type trailer?
