Deep Cycle Battery? (1 Viewer)

[mct75]

I've tried to search, but haven't found much aside from dual setups with a distinct SLI+house setup.

Has anyone tried a single or dual deep cycle battery in place of a normal automotive battery? A larger DC battery will have similar cranking power to a small starting battery, and have infinitely more use since you can discharge it more than 20% without damaging it. Two DC batteries would crush any single SLI battery and provide a huge power reserve.

I know the AGM batteries have deep cycle ability as well as good power output, but I don't like them as most car alternators don't charge them properly, and mixing AGM and flooded batteries isn't recommended.

 

[1973Guppie]

I run dual deep cycle rv batteries from costco. They fit fine if you are able to do some simple fabbing of the battery handle mounts (need to cut them off with a dremel). They are huge batteries and I can run my fridge for 2 days on one, probably much longer on both. I carry a portable battery jumper in case I need to jump the starting batt

 

[SmokingRocks]

Both my batteries are deep cycle units. X2 power batteries +

They are totally fine for use as main starting batts

 

[rmblaire]

I also run the X2 Power deep cycle but just a single. I have run my fridge for 48 hrs and the car fired right up.

 

[Tapage]

While there are fine for normal start they are not best suited for that task ..

 

[Grench]

I'm still running dual Optima D31M deep cycle/starting batteries in parallel (i.e. no battery minder). I replaced my worn out D31A batteries about 3? years ago, otherwise my write up in the dual battery thread is still the same. Electrically simple. Big marine switches let me isolate if I want to - pretty rare to want to. Gives me 3-4 days of ARB fridge time and plenty of amps for the starter and winch. YMMV.

 

[mct75]

Thanks for the feedback so far! To me it makes sense to have both batteries connected all the time if you're running two identical ones. If anything I'd have an isolator switch for the big loads so those get locked out below 12.5 V or something.

 

[pengfinn]

I run a dual cycle marine battery in my 91, it's great, can't remember the make of the battery. I've left my headlights on from 8AM until lunch ( ) and still been able to crank. Can't recommend them enough, would like to get a dual setup eventually.

 

[Grench]

Thanks for the feedback so far! To me it makes sense to have both batteries connected all the time if you're running two identical ones. If anything I'd have an isolator switch for the big loads so those get locked out below 12.5 V or something.

Define, "big loads".

The largest capable amp draws on my truck, descending are:
Starter (Up to 2200A) - usage time generally measured in seconds.
M1200 winch (up to 450A) - usage time generally measured in minutes.
Air compressor (up to 45A) - usage time generally measured in tens of minutes.
ARB Fridge/Freezer (Up to 15A) - usage time generally measured in days.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Define, "big loads".

warning to others.... not advisable to search "Big Loads" on your work computer, you may have a nice yet slightly awkward visit from the IT lady....

 

[TexasJack]

I'm still running dual Optima D31M deep cycle/starting batteries in parallel (i.e. no battery minder). I replaced my worn out D31A batteries about 3? years ago, otherwise my write up in the dual battery thread is still the same. Electrically simple. Big marine switches let me isolate if I want to - pretty rare to want to. Gives me 3-4 days of ARB fridge time and plenty of amps for the starter and winch. YMMV.

Why did you go for the blue marine battery vs. the yellow battery in a D35?

 

[Grench]

Why did you go for the blue marine battery vs. the yellow battery in a D35?

The blue marine batteries I'm using are D31M. They replaced the D31A batteries I had in it. My battery connections are highly modified. That said, the D31A fit like a glove in my wifes '96. It is a bit tight on the + connection though.

The main diffrence between the D31M and the D31A is that the M has two more posts and at the time I was purchasing a new set the M was $50 per battery cheaper.

D31A and D31M are 900 CCA and 59 lbs each. Other than post arrangement, they are identical.

I have never used the D35. The D35 is 600 CCA and 36.4 lbs each.

Two very different batteries between the D31 and D35.

 

[greentruck]

I use Interstate, a standard starting battery in the primary position and a marine-cranking in the AUX.

 

[Grench]

I use Interstate, a standard starting battery in the primary position and a marine-cranking in the AUX.

Where you are using an isolator that makes sense. In my case, I'm running the two batteries in parallel without an isolator - effectively one big battery. Not right or wrong, just different purpose/method.

 

[greentruck]

Yeah, that's a good point. I'd probably try a marine cranking in both positions if I lived farther south. We've got the usual fridge, but I also have a CPAP I have to use, so we have a pretty high overnight demand if it's at all warm

 

[bajaphile]

Why not go dual purpose? It is a kind of bi-curious type battery though.

Either way, I am not wasting my $$ on an AGM again. I spent $250 on a AGM DieHard and it is already crapping out. Charges to 12.5V. I always have been one to buy just standard flooded Interstate batteries and they've lasted for several years. The Die Hard AGM is only 1.5 years old.

 

[mct75]

I've read that normal automotive alternators cannot properly charge an AGM and these batteries require an occasional charge from a proper AGM charger to maintain their life. Something about sulfation I think.

 

[MODist]

Flooded lead acid batteries tend to handle the abuses of vehicle life much better than AGM or gel. They are easy to maintain and generally cost the least. LiFePo4 batteries have a cost premium but have several advantages when used as the starting battery. While a standard alternator won't fully charge it this won't reduce the life of the battery. They provide great starting current and very low self discharge.

 

[Crawdad]

I ran series 27 Deep Cycle marine battery in my 97 for 3 years. the first one lasted 2 yrs to the day before it wasn't charging fully and couldn't start the truck. The 2nd was at 1 yr when it was starting to show a drop in standing voltage.

I really like them because the dual posts make hooking up things like a winch or similar attachments, but they usually have shorter warranty periods.

I have replaced my 2nd one with a standard Interstate battery, and have moved the deep cycle marine to my trailer and it constantly charges off of the solar panel and has plenty of reserve for that level of use.

For what it's worth.

 

[greentruck]

I ran series 27 Deep Cycle marine battery in my 97 for 3 years. the first one lasted 2 yrs to the day before it wasn't charging fully and couldn't start the truck. The 2nd was at 1 yr when it was starting to show a drop in standing voltage.

SNIP

Just to clarify, was this a standard marine deep cycle or a marine cranking/deep cycle?

Yeah, if the standard marine deep cycle, repeated cranking isn't good in the long run.

I've actually had real good service life from the Interstate marine cranking/deep cycle. It's 5+ years old and sitting at 12.76v right now. The primary is at 12.42v. That's where we have trouble, because unless we're away for a trip, the truck is driven only 3 or 4 days a week and all short in-town trips, plus the truck has several small parasitic loads from onboard equipment. Not been getting 4 years out of the primary, but its the tough operating profile that's the issue for it.

Haven't had AUX out overnight lately, so would want to test that given its age before relying on it for a long trip, but no issues with it not providing the expected service when needed.