I have PM from members about fitting a buzzer and how it is done, I am sure it has been explained elsewhere on the forum, but as I have just typed this up I have copied and paste it here for anyone interested.
You will need:
1 x 12v buzzer OR 24v buzzer if your car is full time 24v.
1 x oil pressure switch, preferable is the two terminal type.
1 x 'T' piece.
1 x fuse and holder with minimum rated fuse 2 amps for example?
Some cable.
Connectors various.
Possibly some PTF plumbers tape.
Remove the oil pressure sensor from the block noting wire position first.
Check your new switch and original sensor screw into the new 'T' piece.
If they fit OK and allow for orientation of the 'T' piece to allow space for fitting.
Screw 'T' into block and then fit your OE sensor and your new oil pressure switch, you may need a little PTF plumbers tape to create a seal?
Reconnect the OE sensor and start up and check for readings and leaks.
If all good run a wire from the switch into the passenger area and connect to negative of buzzer, some buzzers are not fussy which way pos/neg are connected but worth checking for any markings.
Next find an IGNITION controlled live and connect the other buzzer terminal to it via the small rated fuse.
Switch on the ignition and earth the cable that is hanging loose near the pressure switch and touch it to the engine block, the buzzer should sound, and again with the ignition off, this time there should be no buzzer sound.
Next if you have a single terminal pressure switch connect the loose wire direct to it, the body of the switch will be the earth. If the there are two terminals fit the loose wire to one and the other connect to the engine block.
Ignition on should give you the buzzer, start up and a few seconds later the buzzer should stop. If it does you are all done.
I would add this though:
Mine has the buzzer and light in the custom dash insert which is shown waaay back somewhere in
Builds - My LC 80 thread.
When I designed the wiring diagram I thought about the amount of times you may need the ignition on but engine off when fault finding any issues even if not related to oil pressure, and if you have a buzzer that is loud enough (and it should be), it's continued buzzing will drive you nuts! I fitted an override which silenced the buzzer but left the oil light flashing and another LED flashing indicating I had isolated the buzzer, much in the same way I isolated the electric engine cooling fan for wading and the ability to count ten digits after working on a hot engine!
I recently had a faulty oil pressure switch, and after confirming there was nothing serious going on I simply isolated the buzzer with the switch on the centre console and drove home, the oil light flashing much easier to ignore, I have just this minute finished fitting and calibrating a new switch and was about to update my long running thread accordingly when I see the PM.
regards
Dave
