Death blow by Wix

Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Messages
6,897
 
 
"I have Robbie's cell #, but not sure if it's current and I'm not going to post it on a public forum."

Agree with above: was thinking that if the OP was within towing distance he could bring his 80 to Robbie. Doing an online search I couldn't find his new shop address, but there is a thread from last summer mentioning his new shop is in Longmont, Colorado.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 29, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Del Norte, Colorado
So for you that are interested... I did talk to Robbie. Yes he's still in business in Fort Collins. He says number 1 or 6 is usually the problem child. Due to a tired coolant or fuel system those cylinders see more heat. I have been visiting with Justin at High Country Cruisers. He has some help for me and he's "just over the mountain" from me. If I can figure out how I'll post a video of the truck running..again just for information sake. It sounds like a little kubota tractor my uncle had when I was a boy...
 
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
241
Location
Nevada
If you ever actually LOOSE Pressure- SHUT IT OFF IMMEDIATELY. engine life can be measured in seconds without oil pressure. It's like flatlining your heart.
Sorry to hear about your troubles Lurv. Hope everything works out without breaking the bank.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but the quote above scared me. I’m currently 1k miles into my most recent oil change. Using Eneos engine oil and a Toyota filter. Prior filter was an STP used by the PO. During normal driving, the needle is between the middle 2 hash marks but above the half way mark. During idle (foot on brake waiting at a light) the needle drops to between the first 2 hash marks (around the quarter tank level). Press the gas and go, and the needle moves back up to above the half way mark. Is this normal?
 
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
189
Location
Texas
Sorry to hear about your troubles Lurv. Hope everything works out without breaking the bank.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but the quote above scared me. I’m currently 1k miles into my most recent oil change. Using Eneos engine oil and a Toyota filter. Prior filter was an STP used by the PO. During normal driving, the needle is between the middle 2 hash marks but above the half way mark. During idle (foot on brake waiting at a light) the needle drops to between the first 2 hash marks (around the quarter tank level). Press the gas and go, and the needle moves back up to above the half way mark. Is this normal?
Yea, that's normal. One of the things on my list is to get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in order to get true readings so that I'm not constantly worrying.
 
Joined
Feb 29, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Del Norte, Colorado
And a warning light.... with a low pressure visual or audible warning I may have dodged this bullet. I had just left my house and was headed to town. I have 8 miles of dirt road before I hit pavement. It was a nice day and I had my window down so I didn't hear the engine knocking. But just maybe would have had time to shut it down if the low pressure would have alerted me.... and I guess the gauge did I just didnt see it....
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
3,875
Location
Spain
 
 
First I must say as a mechanic in the UK I used the WIX brand for many years with no issue regardless of model, I have not come across them here in Spain so not on my worry list.

Second, it is very possible that if the shell bearing failed and the engine was shut down quick enough then a set of shells may be all that is needed, the cranks are pretty tough on Toyota's, having said that the OP sounds as if he has run it enough to finish the crank so probably a bit late now.

And by coincidence I mentioned the 80 is IMO odd in that it has a pressure gauge but no low pressure light. Yes there is a low level light but you can forget that as it will not warn you in time to save your engine if you get a leak. So I advised around six or seven years ago to fit a light AND a buzzer which I did, although I went a little OTT by incorporating it in the dashboard as if it was OE along with other warnings.

And by another coincidence on the 20th of last month I had pressure issues after a oil change and engine jet wash. You can read about it here. Builds - My LC 80 thread.

The light and buzzer alerted me of a possible pressure problem, having a gauge REGARDLESS of how accurate it is pointless, you will not notice a drop in pressure unless you watch it every moment the engine is running.....and you won't!

The stock gauge once calibrated works just fine and is as good as anything you can buy over the counter if you just want to see pressure, but if you want a warning fit a light and buzzer, it is a doddle to do and might save your engine.

Regards

Dave
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
147
Location
Ivins UT
Curious, no all Napa filters (e.g. proselect) have the same issue that the WIX ones have?
 
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
189
Location
Texas
And a warning light.... with a low pressure visual or audible warning I may have dodged this bullet. I had just left my house and was headed to town. I have 8 miles of dirt road before I hit pavement. It was a nice day and I had my window down so I didn't hear the engine knocking. But just maybe would have had time to shut it down if the low pressure would have alerted me.... and I guess the gauge did I just didnt see it....
That's exactly what I'm looking for. Just one with an audible warning so I'm not constantly looking at the gauges.
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
3,875
Location
Spain
 
 
I have PM from members about fitting a buzzer and how it is done, I am sure it has been explained elsewhere on the forum, but as I have just typed this up I have copied and paste it here for anyone interested.

You will need:

1 x 12v buzzer OR 24v buzzer if your car is full time 24v.
1 x oil pressure switch, preferable is the two terminal type.
1 x 'T' piece.
1 x fuse and holder with minimum rated fuse 2 amps for example?
Some cable.
Connectors various.
Possibly some PTF plumbers tape.

Remove the oil pressure sensor from the block noting wire position first.
Check your new switch and original sensor screw into the new 'T' piece.
If they fit OK and allow for orientation of the 'T' piece to allow space for fitting.
Screw 'T' into block and then fit your OE sensor and your new oil pressure switch, you may need a little PTF plumbers tape to create a seal?
Reconnect the OE sensor and start up and check for readings and leaks.

If all good run a wire from the switch into the passenger area and connect to negative of buzzer, some buzzers are not fussy which way pos/neg are connected but worth checking for any markings.

Next find an IGNITION controlled live and connect the other buzzer terminal to it via the small rated fuse.

Switch on the ignition and earth the cable that is hanging loose near the pressure switch and touch it to the engine block, the buzzer should sound, and again with the ignition off, this time there should be no buzzer sound.

Next if you have a single terminal pressure switch connect the loose wire direct to it, the body of the switch will be the earth. If the there are two terminals fit the loose wire to one and the other connect to the engine block.

Ignition on should give you the buzzer, start up and a few seconds later the buzzer should stop. If it does you are all done.

I would add this though:

Mine has the buzzer and light in the custom dash insert which is shown waaay back somewhere in Builds - My LC 80 thread.

When I designed the wiring diagram I thought about the amount of times you may need the ignition on but engine off when fault finding any issues even if not related to oil pressure, and if you have a buzzer that is loud enough (and it should be), it's continued buzzing will drive you nuts! I fitted an override which silenced the buzzer but left the oil light flashing and another LED flashing indicating I had isolated the buzzer, much in the same way I isolated the electric engine cooling fan for wading and the ability to count ten digits after working on a hot engine!

I recently had a faulty oil pressure switch, and after confirming there was nothing serious going on I simply isolated the buzzer with the switch on the centre console and drove home, the oil light flashing much easier to ignore, I have just this minute finished fitting and calibrating a new switch and was about to update my long running thread accordingly when I see the PM.

regards

Dave
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
8,813
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Linking this for a warning. In case this thread alone wasn't enough.

 
Joined
Feb 20, 2006
Messages
5,307
Location
calgary
 
 
I have PM from members about fitting a buzzer and how it is done, I am sure it has been explained elsewhere on the forum, but as I have just typed this up I have copied and paste it here for anyone interested.

You will need:

1 x 12v buzzer OR 24v buzzer if your car is full time 24v.
1 x oil pressure switch, preferable is the two terminal type.
1 x 'T' piece.
1 x fuse and holder with minimum rated fuse 2 amps for example?
Some cable.
Connectors various.
Possibly some PTF plumbers tape.

Remove the oil pressure sensor from the block noting wire position first.
Check your new switch and original sensor screw into the new 'T' piece......
Hey, so you can get a "on delay" relay, you can either run it through the power to the horn or create something fancier. This way you wont hear the horn for 10 seconds or so for you to start the truck and let it run.
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
3,875
Location
Spain
 
 
Hearing the buzzer every time I start the motor is a good way to confirm all the circuitry is good.

regards

Dave
 
Joined
Mar 17, 2019
Messages
103
Location
Georgia
This is still happening ? Geeez. Hope this was an old stock filter. Back when I was selling parts, Wix was the good brand.

Jason
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
872
Location
Seattle
That's why it's such a kick in the balls. I used to specifically choose the "better" wix filters and then this happens.
I've tried to explain my sudden negativity towards my non land cruiser car friends and they think i'm an idiot. Won't touch wix with a 10 ft pole. Gone back to OEM on all my cars. Easy and cheap and proven good filters (Toyota and Subaru). Doesn't make sense not to.
 
Top Bottom