Dave's Cruiser Questions (3 Viewers)

[FJ Noob]

Pesky heater hose?

It was replaced at some point with good constant torque clamps, but I know that doesn’t guarantee anything. I’m looking for a good picture to show me where it attaches…the leak seems to be coming from right off the PS corner of the block…right about where it mates to the head. Much like a roof leak, it could also be flowing across from somewhere else I guess.

 

[roadstr6]

PHH and its pesky neighbor are on the driver's side under the intake manifold. Being that this leak is showing on the passenger side I would rule those out, but pin hole leaks can travel a bit under pressure. If PHH hasn't been done recently, it may be worth investigating. Do check your heater connections as well as the condition of the heater valve itself. They can and do bust.

 

[NCFJ]

Recently had an 80 heater valve fall apart in my hands.

 

[FJ Noob]

PHH and its pesky neighbor are on the driver's side under the intake manifold. Being that this leak is showing on the passenger side I would rule those out, but pin hole leaks can travel a bit under pressure. If PHH hasn't been done recently, it may be worth investigating. Do check your heater connections as well as the condition of the heater valve itself. They can and do bust.

Recently had an 80 heater valve fall apart in my hands.

Heater valve was replaced in July along with all hoses and clamps. The connections around the valve and on the firewall are all dry. I tried getting a borescope camera back there to look along the head/block seam, but the lens is too close to really make anything out. Maybe I’ll try wiggling back in there with a telescopic mirror this weekend.

 

[FJ Noob]

DEATH WOBBLE….not exactly, but close…

I started getting vibration, similar to low grade Jeep death wobble, on the 60 when I go into a left or right curve at >30mph. Figured I was due for an alignment but that didn’t help. Put it up on the lift and checked the bearings for play…nothing, re-torqued lug nuts, checked TREs and u-bolts on leaf springs…everything is tight. Steering dampner is OME and only about 2 yrs old. I went through everything I could find on past posts. None of that has worked I’m running out of ideas. Hoping somebody may have some personal experience.

Have not had a chance to actually check tire balance, but I did rotate them and saw no change.

 

[SFROMAN]

Get the tires Tires rebalanced.

 

[roadstr6]

DEATH WOBBLE….not exactly, but close…

I started getting vibration, similar to low grade Jeep death wobble, on the 60 when I go into a left or right curve at >30mph. Figured I was due for an alignment but that didn’t help. Put it up on the lift and checked the bearings for play…nothing, re-torqued lug nuts, checked TREs and u-bolts on leaf springs…everything is tight. Steering dampner is OME and only about 2 yrs old. I went through everything I could find on past posts. None of that has worked I’m running out of ideas. Hoping somebody may have some personal experience.

Have not had a chance to actually check tire balance, but I did rotate them and saw no change.

Check shackle bushings. If OME yellow poly and if they've been on there more than 5 years, they'll be ovaled out.

 

[FJ Noob]

Check shackle bushings. If OME yellow poly and if they've been on there more than 5 years, they'll be ovaled out.

Only on for about 2 years, but driven daily… recommendations for bushings that may last longer?

 

[Comet]

Oem rubber bushings for the shackles.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If the death wobble just started then you're looking for something that wore out. On a 60, spring/shackle bushings, or a caliper that's sticking, or a tire that slipped a belt.

 

[onemanarmy]

all lug nuts tight?

 

[FJ Noob]

DEATH WOBBLE….not exactly, but close…

I started getting vibration, similar to low grade Jeep death wobble, on the 60 when I go into a left or right curve at >30mph. Figured I was due for an alignment but that didn’t help. Put it up on the lift and checked the bearings for play…nothing, re-torqued lug nuts, checked TREs and u-bolts on leaf springs…everything is tight. Steering dampner is OME and only about 2 yrs old. I went through everything I could find on past posts. None of that has worked I’m running out of ideas. Hoping somebody may have some personal experience.

Have not had a chance to actually check tire balance, but I did rotate them and saw no change.

Finally had some time and figured it out….all previous ideas were not the culprit.

Relay rod ends. I pulled the cotter pins, made what amounted to about a 1 turn adjustment on one side and half turn on the other; no more wobble. Page SR-75 in the cirica 1985 FSM I have.

Not that exciting mechanically, so here’s a poser 60 with a Christmas tree shot…..

 

[FJ Noob]

I'm finally getting around to re-visiting the task of de-smogging the 60 since I'm rebuilding another 2F to drop in as a refresh (no better time right). I know most people send carbs and distributors off to Jim C as part of their desmog...but... Would it be "faster" (no waiting for shop time) and just as effective to install a new non-US carb/dizzy combo that was originally designed to work sans emissions components?

 

[roadstr6]

I'm finally getting around to re-visiting the task of de-smogging the 60 since I'm rebuilding another 2F to drop in as a refresh (no better time right). I know most people send carbs and distributors off to Jim C as part of their desmog...but... Would it be "faster" (no waiting for shop time) and just as effective to install a new non-US carb/dizzy combo that was originally designed to work sans emissions components?

You can do that, sure, but it is a downgrade (in my opinion) from the original carb and big cap dizzy in your 60. If you end up doing the swap, I'd be happy to purchase your original dizzy. I like to keep a couple of spares on hand.

 

[Hokie LX]

Echoing Dave…Even with a desmog carb/dizzy, you'll have to rework the vacuum lines. May as well keep the stock components and put the time in to redo the vacuum lines while maintaining the reliability of OEM components. Rebuild your carb, recurve your dizzy using Dave’s method and you’ll be good to go.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I would rather put on a weber 38/38 than a clone carb. Clone carbs work, but I can't quantify it, just not as well.

Jetted right the weber 38/38 works awesome, but the stock aisin carb is hands down the best carb for these 2fs.

@IcutYourCruiser is the authority on replica aisin carbs AFAIK, so he should weigh in.

 

[cruisermatt]

I'm finally getting around to re-visiting the task of de-smogging the 60 since I'm rebuilding another 2F to drop in as a refresh (no better time right). I know most people send carbs and distributors off to Jim C as part of their desmog...but... Would it be "faster" (no waiting for shop time) and just as effective to install a new non-US carb/dizzy combo that was originally designed to work sans emissions components?

1st, most importantly, make sure you have a carb you *know* works when you go to fire up your rebuild for the first time.
I would stick with your current big cap distributor. They are the best.
For carb's we used to mess around with the cheap knock-off Non-US carbs here a lot and it ended up being more hassle then they are worth. They come with power valves stuck in the bores, metal shavings inside, cracks in castings causing internal vacuum leaks etc. usually would need 2 or 3 to make a good one.
Now we keep a new OEM Non-US unit in stock and they are pricey but we have zero problems and they run perfect.
We convert several trucks a year back from Weber to Aisin carb and clean up cheap desmogs

 

[FJ Noob]

1st, most importantly, make sure you have a carb you *know* works when you go to fire up your rebuild for the first time.
I would stick with your current big cap distributor. They are the best.
For carb's we used to mess around with the cheap knock-off Non-US carbs here a lot and it ended up being more hassle then they are worth. They come with power valves stuck in the bores, metal shavings inside, cracks in castings causing internal vacuum leaks etc. usually would need 2 or 3 to make a good one.
Now we keep a new OEM Non-US unit in stock and they are pricey but we have zero problems and they run perfect.
We convert several trucks a year back from Weber to Aisin carb and clean up cheap desmogs

The OEM Non-US carb is what I was originally referencing, so that’s good feedback.
@cruisermatt @roadstr6 ok, please educate me of the dizzy… I was looking at part 19100-61180, the non-US dizzy. It’s just pictures without anything else to help reference the actual size. Is it not just the US dizzy minus the smog add-ons? Also, what’s the advantage of a “large cap” dizzy over the alternative. I’m still at the basic level of understanding on distributors.

 

[roadstr6]

The large cap dizzy is, IMO, the culmination of years of improvements in Mr. T's distributor design. It is fully electronic, no points to deal with. The distributor shaft is fully supported by roller bearings, and the vacuum advance mechanism swivels on ball bearings. The prior iterations are supported by a brass bushing, not rollers, and can wear and become sloppy, causing all kinds of ignition problems. That being said, there are tons of the older units still working fine, and chances are that you're not going to drive another 200k miles in your 60. You'll be fine whatever direction you go with this.

 

[cruisermatt]

The OEM Non-US carb is what I was originally referencing, so that’s good feedback.
@cruisermatt @roadstr6 ok, please educate me of the dizzy… I was looking at part 19100-61180, the non-US dizzy. It’s just pictures without anything else to help reference the actual size. Is it not just the US dizzy minus the smog add-ons? Also, what’s the advantage of a “large cap” dizzy over the alternative. I’m still at the basic level of understanding on distributors.

x2 everything Dave said.
The 19100-61180 is a good distrubtor but still a downgrade from what you have - you would also want to change the coil/ignitor to match which would mean modifying your wiring there. It can certainly be done but there is just not a reason to in your case.
Also, your current distributor has a o-ring to keep water out where 19100-61180 does not.
I do stock and sell 19100-61180's, but we are usually using them in FJ40's with worn-out vacuum retard distributors or Delco distributors guys used to put in the 1980's