Danish landcruiser

[Frkens]

So I had a professional look at the work on the fenders and he said the old front fender was done. So guess I'm going with the new one after all.

Same story with the rear left corner (picture below). He advised me to buy a new sheet of metal and get to it.

The search continues.

 

[Frkens]

Man I've been looking for where to connect the second O2 sensor. Yesterday I found out. What a relief. The wire harness goes from the right side of the engine, over the transmission and connects to the o2 sensor. I was able to connect them by taking of the transmission access plate in the cabin. What a relief!!!

While being in there i replaced some of the old speedometer cable holders with new ones. Looking kind of nice in my opinion.

Going back out there with a painter now to get a price estimate of how much he'll charge for a complete paint job.

Have a nice day!!

 

[red66toy]

Do you still need that water temp connector? I can give you the Toyota part number if you want. That way you can order locally.

 

[Frkens]

Do you still need that water temp connector? I can give you the Toyota part number if you want. That way you can order locally.

Hey @red66toy

Thanks a lot but I figured out a way to use the old one. I refurbished it and connected the wires (not the way they're supposed to - but it'll work until I find a new sensor with integrated connector). I did inquire for a new one at Toyota and the price was ridiculous (+500$).

(It's a different sensor than the one displayed below but similar)

 

[Frkens]

The engine is cranking!!! And well!!! Everything sounds good but it isn't firing up.

I have a pretty good idea why... The banjo screw that sits on the fuel manifold isn't connected fully. Mainly because Don't know what to connect it to.

The banjo screw sits in the position I marked on the first photo below. What does it connect to?? Anyone knows?

I have a spare fuel line (picture two below) that fits in that end, but there is nothing to connect it to in the other end.


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I figured it out. The fuel line on the picture was a spare. The fuel line connecting to the hole in the fuel rail on the picture was hidden under the air inlet manifold

 

[Frkens]

Alright, so with a guy willing to do the worst dents, and another guy to do the filling and painting things are moving in the right direction.

However the engine isn't starting. And I cannot figure out why...

Here's what I checked:
Engine is cranking.
Fuel pump running. Fuel is coming out of the fuel rail when I loosen the banjo supply screw. Also tested by connection Fp and B in the diagnostics box.
Battery is topped up
The ignition coil is working as well as the cable to the distributor (after I've made a new one myself).
The rotor in the distributor is spinning (took the cap off and saw it move).
The spark plugs are working. Took it out and saw the spark.

EFI relay clicks when I take it off and reconnect it. Seems to be working, no?

Injectors? Don't know if they work. Next thing to test? How do I do that?

When I put the key in the ignition and turn it there is no engine light. How can that be?

Can the timing be off?

I cranked the engine many times today in several attempts to start it. A few times it sounded like it ignited shortly only on one cylinder with no cylinders following it up.

Any advice???? I could really use it. Will try to fire it up again tomorrow.


Cheers guys

 

[WSOPgold2012]

Incredible trip...incredible restoration!!! Awesome!!!

 

[Frkens]

It's alive!!!!

It seems that the timing was off! Now the engine is running. However!!!

- it doesn't idle very well.
- it's noisy as the valve cover isn't on and the exhaust isn't completely tightened.
- there is no oil pressure
- there seems to be a tiny bit of water in the oil.
- I didn't notice a rise in temperature on the coolant as the engine was only running for two minutes. I'll keep an eye out for that tomorrow.

The water in the oil point is critical as the oil and the filter is brand new. However... The engine has not been running for several years. I suspect that condense has been collecting several weird places and is being flushed out now. I will run the engine more tomorrow and keep an eye out for a rise in temperature.

Here's a bunch of pics of the cold start injector (before/after cleaning), the valves showing that they're not stuck, and finally the oil pump screw at a 25 degrees angle (as stated in the FSM) and finally the window showing the TDC mark on the flywheel (a bit hard to see if you don't know what to look for).

 

[Frkens]

It's alive

In the first video the sound of the engine is much better than the second in my opinion. In the second video it sounds a bit like it's too warm and knocking. Or is it just me???


First video



Second video

 

[cps432]

I can’t watch your videos at the moment, but, have you checked that your distributor is installed correctly? Could it be off by one tooth? It’s happened to many of us before. Easy mistake to make.

 

[Frkens]

I can’t watch your videos at the moment, but, have you checked that your distributor is installed correctly? Could it be off by one tooth? It’s happened to many of us before. Easy mistake to make.

I am not 100 % percent certain. But I believe it is correctly installed.

How can I be a 100 % certain that it is installed correctly?

 

[cps432]

I am not 100 % percent certain. But I believe it is correctly installed.

How can I be a 100 % certain that it is installed correctly?

Try reinstalling the distributor and make sure the engine is exactly at top dead center.

In fact, leave the distributor in place and put the engine at TDC, then remove the cap from the distributor and look at the orientation of the rotor.

The FSM isn’t very clear on exactly where it should be. The drawing seems to be a little bit off. I do know that you have to start dropping the dizzy into the camshaft gear slightly turned away from where you want the rotor to point in its resting place. The gears have a twisted slope to them and the dizzy will rotate a bit as it follows the gear teeth.

There’s a bit of a “feel” thing when installing the distributor. Get the FSM out and go over it again and maybe search on MUD for some dizzy installation threads.

If you were having trouble getting it to start but it was cranking over, then you adjusted the timing and it’s running very rough I would guess it’s the distributor. Sounds like a classic “one tooth off” scenario.

 

[Frkens]

Thanks for the advice @cps432. What you're describing is pretty much exactly what I did. I put the engine exactly at tdc and installed the distributor pointing more at 12 o'clock than what the FSM says. When it was all the way in it pointed at more like 1030 ish as the fsm says.

Does it run rough in your opinion listening to the videos??

 

[cps432]

Thanks for the advice @cps432. What you're describing is pretty much exactly what I did. I put the engine exactly at tdc and installed the distributor pointing more at 12 o'clock than what the FSM says. When it was all the way in it pointed at more like 1030 ish as the fsm says.

Does it run rough in your opinion listening to the videos??

The videos will not play for me for some reason.

 

[Frkens]

I got the engine running for 15 minutes today. The idle was a bit rough but nevertheless... Luckily there's a bunch of threads in here with things to try out for improving the idling.

I also realized that the oil pressure sensor wasn't properly connected. Got that fixed and boom, oil pressure was showing on the dash. Same story with the coolant temperature. However I did find it a bit odd, that the lowest positioned coolant hose still felt a bit cold. I was wondering if there was no circulation. But if there hadn't been circulation I'm pretty sure I would've been hearing knocking sounds and felt the engine overheat. As well as seeing the oil pressure rise. So there must be circulation. No?

I was about to install the brake booster till I realized how bad the condition was. So I detached the cylinder, took it to the wire brush and gave it a bit of brake caliper paint. Hope it will turn out well! I took apart the brake cylinder and man was I glad I did so. There was a lot of dirt in there. I managed to find an overhaul kit for 50 USD for the cylinder.

Tomorrow is a day off. Going diving for lobsters with a bunch of friends in the cold waters of Denmark.

For repairing the oil pressure sensor and the coolant temperature sensor properly I need some parts that Vintageteqparts.com has. However they don't ship to Denmark, so I wrote them a message asking nicely... Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[John McVicker]

W/O going back thru all of your thread to see if they will ship to Denmark…don’t forget @cruiseroutfit

 

[cps432]

I got the engine running for 15 minutes today. The idle was a bit rough but nevertheless... Luckily there's a bunch of threads in here with things to try out for improving the idling.

I also realized that the oil pressure sensor wasn't properly connected. Got that fixed and boom, oil pressure was showing on the dash. Same story with the coolant temperature. However I did find it a bit odd, that the lowest positioned coolant hose still felt a bit cold. I was wondering if there was no circulation. But if there hadn't been circulation I'm pretty sure I would've been hearing knocking sounds and felt the engine overheat. As well as seeing the oil pressure rise. So there must be circulation. No?

I was about to install the brake booster till I realized how bad the condition was. So I detached the cylinder, took it to the wire brush and gave it a bit of brake caliper paint. Hope it will turn out well! I took apart the brake cylinder and man was I glad I did so. There was a lot of dirt in there. I managed to find an overhaul kit for 50 USD for the cylinder.

Tomorrow is a day off. Going diving for lobsters with a bunch of friends in the cold waters of Denmark.

For repairing the oil pressure sensor and the coolant temperature sensor properly I need some parts that Vintageteqparts.com has. However they don't ship to Denmark, so I wrote them a message asking nicely... Keeping my fingers crossed.

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If the engine only ran for 15 minutes and not under load I wouldn’t expect all the hoses to be screaming hot. I think it takes about that long for the engine to heat the coolant enough to open the thermostat. At that point the coolant from the radiator will begin to circulate through the system which would dump a lot of cooler fluid into the circulation. Without looking at the diagram, I’m 99% certain the coolant feeds into the engine from the bottom of the radiator. It’s possible you felt the hose right as the cold fluid was dumping into the block. I wouldn’t worry too much about it, but keep your eyes on it for now.

What parts do you need for the oil pressure and temperature sensor?

 

[Frkens]

Thanks @cps432 you have a good point.

I need these two things from vintageteqparts. It doesn't have to be those exact ones. Similar can do the job as well. I just wasn't able to find any.

Coolant temp. sensor

FJ62 3FE PLUG and PLAY Repair KIT OEM JAPAN , SWITCH, Connector Wires SENSOR SENDER WATER TEMPERATURE Guage In Dash Fits 87 -92 FJ62 FJ80 USA & Canada Spec. GREY TIP 1 wire - VintageTEqParts.com

NOTE: This DOES NOT Come with the Wires Attached to the connector .... Genuine NipponDenso JAPAM OEM comes with...

vintageteqparts.com

Oil sensor repair kit

TOYOTA Oil Pressure Sending Unit Sensor Switch Connector Wire Harness Repair Kit Single Wire Type - VintageTEqParts.com

TOYOTA Oil Pressure Sending Unit Sensor Switch Connector Wire Harness Repair Kit Fits 1964-1990 FJ40, 55 , 60, 62...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[Frkens]

So what's new?

Engine is running nicely now. It starts really easy when I turn the key. Amazing. No leaks and oil pressure as well as coolant temperature works perfectly as well. Almost too Good to be true

Tonight I installed the newly painted, brake calipers with new brake pads. Also installed the overhauled brake master- and slave cylinder. Finally i bled the brakes which also ended up with a nice result. What the heck is going on??

So basically the car can drive and brake now. Once I've received the new backup switch (that I somehow have torn the wire off) I'll connect all wires again and attach them nicely.

Then there's the plate work that needs a caring hand. In the start of may I'm paying a guy to repair the worst dents. After that it goes to a painter.

For now my main focus is to do whatever plate work I can do myself. However my welding skills are poor, so I'll have to try and teach myself somehow this weekend.

 

[Frkens]

Anyone know what the name of the missing sensor in the picture of the cransfer case? Because it's not the OEM "back up switch" in the picture below