Danish landcruiser (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

1 fuel fill: the neck you put the gas nozzle in. Prob just a few screws and pull it out . Make sure the hose going from the fuel fill to the gas tank is not connected to your body.

2. Removing the shift boots: unscrew the metal plates under the rubber shift boots that hold the boots to the floor at the transmission hump. twist off the shift knob and remove, then pull the rubber boots up and off the shift stick.

3. The transmission shift stick=shift lever, push down and turn the metal collar. You can see it under the boot, and the lever comes out. On the T-case lever you need to get under the truck and unbolt/unpin it from the transfer case.

Also you'll need to remove any wiring for sensors or senders ...ie the temp sensor, the speedo cable, the 4wd light indicator off the t case, the reverse or back up switches, basically any and all wires coming out the firewall. Also Need to remove the clutch line as well as brake lines.

 

[Frkens]

Got the shop cleaned up today, but I still need to get all the spares that I take of arranged somehow. Also got the sway bar off, as it was blocking the stands from being positioned properly. Lucky that my old man spotted it killed me

I'm narrowing in on which differential to install. I have narrowed it down to go with either Harrop Eaton e-lockers or original cable lockers. What's keeping me from making my final decision is whether I want floating axles or not. I am a newbie, but I think full floating axles sounds great because of the added capability, and if I am right, that's what I need for the e-lockers, right?

Another advantage with the e-lockers is that I can install a center differential freely. I'd like to have that option. I don't know if it takes a brand new t-case in order to get centre differential. What do you guys think, should I forget about it?

if you haven't seen it, here's a pretty good video about among others, the Harrop Eaton e-lockers.


@g-man Thanks for the details, they don't scare me off and I'll keep on keeping on!

@HemiAlex sorry that I didn't get the pictures yet, I'll try to remember next time. I could imagine you're holding your breathe to see them

 

[dogfishlake]

If you go with the aftermarket e-lockers, I don't believe you need to change the rear end. The full float rear is just and added feature for durability, mainly in that you don't have the c-clips in the housing holding the axles in. Full float is definitely an upgrade, but literally thousands of 60 series have wheeled many thousands of miles on the c-clip axle.

I got the body off of my 60, it was pretty easy. I did not have to remove the gas tank, or even the spare tire beforehand. Also, I did mine with a fork lift and used the side-shift to move the body back a little as I lifted it and that saved me from taking the shifters out. I think the whole effort took me around 6 hours to get the fenders off, and the body unhooked and off. I did take my whole interior out prior to all of this which was around 6-8 hours. Worth it I think. I will tell you if that is a true statement when it is back together!

Ill put up a couple of pictures.

 

[dogfishlake]

 

[Frkens]

@dogfishlake wow that's a pretty decent job there. I haven't gotten the frame off yet, but I am getting pretty close to do the lift. I might get in some hours tomorrow.

I took the tank off because I wasn't sure... In order to remove the tank I had to remove the exhaust pipe too. I thought that I only had 20 litres in the tank. When the first bucket on the floor was full, and the flow wasn't slowing down, I quickly realised that there was more than 20 in there. More like 40. Anyhow I threw a new bucket under there and one more, and that saved the night. I had to burn it all because the buckets I used were so dirty that I'd never pour it back on after an overhaul.

My mate got the dash panel off the stearing column and the speeder cables without breaking anything (yay), and a lot of other good stuff in the front. I think I'm down to getting off all the tricky parts now.


Nice and dirty... This will be easy to put this together again (said no one ever that night)

The steering column, and what's that yellow binder on the table??

This is the other half of dirt on top of the tank. The half that I didn't get into my eyes. Maybe glasses would be a good idea next time.

 

[Frkens]

And some more pictures...

Decently good looking under there. Haven't found any rust yet!

Here's the binder in the other picture. I promised @HemiAlex to show how much paperwork it takes for a dane to drive through 13 countries with a Canadian girl in an American car (which has a salvaged title by the way)...

The shipping process was actually not too bad. It was a three month project to find the cheapest (while still reliable shipping company), and then it was a one day project in a Argentine harbour to deliver the car. Two and a half months later it arrived in Germany. Because of the European tax rules, it was cheaper for me to have someone put it on a trailer and drive it to my parents house, than to go down there and drive it home myself.
When I received the car, everything of value had been stolen. This is a quite common thing I had read on beforehand. So all that was left in there was the cheap tools I bought from Harborfreight in LA to do fixes on the road.

Every border crossing was a full day project. Not once in the eight months did we bribe any of those bastards along the way. A lot of police and military tried to get money from our hands though. When doing our first border crossing, they wouldn't let us across into Mexico because of the salvaged title. We had to show that the car was in great condition. Se we did, and they let us through... Same thing happened in Costa Rica. But we played that one well... When there was a shift because the one guy went ot lunch, we acted like we were there for our first time. The new guy, didn't care about the salvaged title and let us right through. Great times.

 

[cruisermatt]

First off, what an epic trip.

As for the lockers and axles, I wouldn't do the cable lockers, everyone on this forum has this big obsession with them, but they are very rare and parts are quite scarce.
I would just put an ARB in the rear and be done. To go with an E-locker you need a full float rear axle. Not really worth the trouble for what it looks like you like using the truck for. Again, front locker just not needed here and they pretty much guarantee you'll break stock front axles.

 

[dogfishlake]

Nice work. You are getting a lot done.

I'm glad I took my gas tank out in my parking lot (on concrete thank goodness) instead of indoors. I totally misjudged how much gas was in there. I thought there would be less than 5 gallons and there was more like 10. It was coming so fast out of that drain that it went everywhere on the ground and me while trying to put the plug back in so I could get another can. Of course I dropped the plug too.

 

[Frkens]

Thanks a lot @cruisermatt and @dogfishlake!

That is a damn good point about spares for the cable lockers. I didn't consider that. The upside to the ARB air lockers is that they're popular, and that they lock almost instantly. However they do need a compressor. I'd like to not have to add more equipment... I'm afraid that's just more stuff that can break. Then again it would be nice with a compressor for a lot of stuff...

I'm pretty sure I don't need front lockers, but I'm pretty sure I want it anyway! But of course I could try the rear locker out for now and add front locker later on if I really think I need it... If it takes a new front axle to get front lockers (full floating) I think this is what I'll do.

The good thing about soaking yourself in gasoline is that it gets the rest of the grease off

 

[dogfishlake]

Thanks a lot @cruisermatt and @dogfishlake!

That is a damn good point about spares for the cable lockers. I didn't consider that. The upside to the ARB air lockers is that they're popular, and that they lock almost instantly. However they do need a compressor. I'd like to not have to add more equipment... I'm afraid that's just more stuff that can break. Then again it would be nice with a compressor for a lot of stuff...

I'm pretty sure I don't need front lockers, but I'm pretty sure I want it anyway! But of course I could try the rear locker out for now and add front locker later on if I really think I need it... If it takes a new front axle to get front lockers (full floating) I think this is what I'll do.

The good thing about soaking yourself in gasoline is that it gets the rest of the grease off

Cable lockers will be a whole lot more plentiful near you than they are here in the US. One of the things I like about them is they are made by Toyota=very high quality. They won't break easily at all so repairs won't be an issue. That said, for aftermarket items, arb lockers are pretty well proven.

The front axle stays the same in the conversion, just the rear can be upgraded to full floating.

 

[Frkens]

Got some more hours in today, and flew a little around with my drone. It flew 400 metres into the sky, and was still able to continue. I stopped it because the visibility got too poor at that altitude. Now I'm hoping for a clear day any time soon!

Anyway got to work on the Sandwich too. I'm prepping it for the body liftoff. Man there's a lot of cables I had to take apart. When I put it back together I'd like to put in a brand new wire harness. I haven't found any complete sets yet, so if anyone has a recommendation I'm happy to see it!

I can't decide whether to take off the handbrake cable at the handbrake-handle, or at the wheels. There's a pretty big bushing with "hooks" on, that I need to squeeze to get it out at the handle, that's why I'm considering the other way. Haven't looked too much at it yet. Maybe I can just pull it backwards out.

I haven't been under the car today, so I'm still lacking all cables and whatso between transmission, transfercase and the body. Maybe I'll have some time to look into that tomorrow.

Judging from pictures I can leave the engine, transmission and transfercase on the frame when I lift the body off without any big trouble. I do expect that some of the mounts are connected to the body so they're both "pushing" upwards and downwards.

Haven't bought the locking differentials yet. I'm leaning towards ARB air lockers now though. I like the capability of being able to inflate the tires while being out there. And if I buy the correct compressor I can both use it for tires and the air lockers.


And some pictures from today's work. I know it's moving slow, but at least it's moving! The last picture is from the auto-phone that was installed under the seat. It's not going back in however cool that would be. That stuff caused quite a birds nest under there.

 

[dogfishlake]

You can leave the driveline in there but if you don't have a means to move the chassis forward as you lift off (or the body back) you may have trouble with the shifters getting in the way. It worked on my 60 to leave them on. Not sure if the 62 is different. I disconnected my e brake from the rear end but either should work.

 

[Frkens]

Alright, time for a tiny update on the project. It's moving slowly along...

The Sandwich is ready for a frame liftoff. So-so. I had to move it this weekend with all the parts (!), in order to have more room (and in order for my dad to have his barn back). So I installed the wheels, the steering wheel, the hand brake, and towed with an ATV just around a mile. It was good fun to look over my shoulder and see the taken apart Sandwich cruising with my brother in law behind the steering wheel.



Status on differentials
I decided to go with the ARB differential RD142 and compressor CKMA12 (usable for tyre inflation and lockers). And I finally found a Danish company that imports ARB parts, so that is really awesome. I want lockers both on the front- and rear axle. So I need to find full floating axles which is not that easy to find here in Denmark. But that's what's going on.

I haven't even considered a centre locking differential, but I assume it's a matter of installing a different transfer case. I can't really find any threads on people doing it with FJ62's. And am I going to participate in the Dakar rally? No... So do I really need it? Guess not...


Next step???
Next step is to lift off the frame. I have a tractor with a fork lift at my disposal. The thing is that it's old, and it's hard to move it just an inch at the time. This being my first frame lift off, I am a little nervous that I might break something while lifting it off, if the fork lift makes a sudden 5 inch lift. So I am considering to lift it off one end of the car at the time with my jack.

Do anyone of you guys have experience doing the lift off with a jack from underneath? I have only seen pictures of this done from up top.


Advice on radiator replacement
Got a recommendable radiator?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

CSF (vast majority of us can vouch) or the aluminium one w/ the M name (@cps432 ?).

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Mishimoto.

And the experts might come along to correct me but I believe that all Land Cruiser solid front axles are full floating by definition. And I also don't believe that you need a full floating rear axle to have an ARB air locker installed. In other words ARB makes a locker for the semi-floating rear axle that was standard in US model 60 series.

 

[86aggie]

@LCnAZ just swapped his radiator out for the Mishimoto. Look at his 'Sentimental Build...' thread.

 

[Frkens]

@Prairie Swamp, looking at the hubs of my axles, what type would you say they are?

The Mishimoto radiator sure looks nice. And it looks like it has the exact same connections as the one I have already. Right now I have an added transmission fluid cooler. Might I be able to toss the extra added one if I buy the Mishimoto? (The Mishimoto is not in stock anymore though :-( )

 

[86aggie]

When I looked last week, the Mishimoto was available from a couple of sources for about US$350.

 

[oestlarsen]

Subscribed...

Laekker towing...ser ikke heelt lovligt ud
Nice trip..great truck..

Alright, time for a tiny update on the project.


Status on differentials
I decided to go with the ARB differential RD142 and compressor CKMA12 (usable for tyre inflation and lockers). And I finally found a Danish company that imports ARB parts, so that is really awesome. I want lockers both on the front- and rear axle. So I need to find full floating axles which is not that easy to find here in Denmark. But that's what's going on.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

@Prairie Swamp, looking at the hubs of my axles, what type would you say they are?

Those look stock for the US market. In other words the front are full floater and the rear is semi-float. Full float rears will have the hubs sticking through the wheels some.

There was some good tech shared here awhile back that advises to install a separate/dedicated ground wire from an aluminum radiator to the vehicle body to prevent fast corrosion on an aluminum radiator.