Love Mishimoto - I've used their cooling systems in two built Subaru's and now in my FJ62. I do have a transmission oil cooler installed on top of it as climbing mountains in Colorado (and descending) may need some help.
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cps432
SILVER Star
I got a screaming deal on a Champion radiator from eBay. It bolted right in with no hassle whatsoever. I haven’t had it for very long but so far it has worked great. Do make sure you ground your aluminum radiator as mentioned before. I think the moshimoto radiator comes with a special ground. Someone who has one correct me if I’m wrong.
Great build. Never made it out to Aalborg before, but spent time in Ebeltoft and Ribe.
Very cool to see an FJ62 in DK.
I detailed some of my mods over in my build thread. I went with a CSF 2708 for my radiator and also added both a power steering and transmission cooler to the front of the AC Condenser. I've swapped out the entire cooling system at this point.
Regarding the ARBs, I believe the RDS 153 is for the rear and the RDS 142 would be used for the front locker. But I haven't tackled this yet - hoping to in the next year.
Very cool to see an FJ62 in DK.
I detailed some of my mods over in my build thread. I went with a CSF 2708 for my radiator and also added both a power steering and transmission cooler to the front of the AC Condenser. I've swapped out the entire cooling system at this point.
Regarding the ARBs, I believe the RDS 153 is for the rear and the RDS 142 would be used for the front locker. But I haven't tackled this yet - hoping to in the next year.
- Thread starter
- #44
So I loosened the chassis yesterday and did a test lift yesterday with a jack. No weird reactions of sounds. Seems like everything is taken apart! Yay!
I am getting ready to put the chassis on top of a trailer, and I'm planning on using a a tractor with a fork lift for the job. Hope it's strong enough. I see that some put a beam through the front and rear windows to lift in. Is that recommendable rather than a long strap around the entire body? I'm afraid of denting the body even more than it already is.
I am getting ready to put the chassis on top of a trailer, and I'm planning on using a a tractor with a fork lift for the job. Hope it's strong enough. I see that some put a beam through the front and rear windows to lift in. Is that recommendable rather than a long strap around the entire body? I'm afraid of denting the body even more than it already is.
I lifted mine on and off a few times through the door openings. It was stripped right down so really light.
I didn't touch the door frames, they are open just enough to put blocks in the roof at the door jamb
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- #47
Thanks @dogfishlake ! My cruiser is also pretty much stripped down to nothing, so I should be able to copy your lift.
I'll post pictures as soon as it's off.
I'll post pictures as soon as it's off.
- Thread starter
- #48
@dogfishlake as promised here's the body lifted off the frame. It was a bit difficult as the tractor couldn't lift very high. But with a little bit of jiggling, it was a great success. As you can see on the second picture I had to balance the body with a spare wheel in order to keep it horisontal. Worked like a charm. Poor old tractor was working hard for the job.
Next move will be to get the frame outside and clean it as it's never been cleaned before. I'm not going to do very much about the body for a while now. My focus will be on the frame. I need to:
- Have more light installed in the barn (on it's way my old man promised).
- Clean the frame
- Galvanize and paint the frame (if it makes sense; I'll know that as soon as it's clean)
- Buy the differential lockers that I've found in Denmark (ARB air controlled) and install them if possible on my axles. From what I know my front axle is a full float and my rear is a semi float. I need to make certain of this, and then I can buy the lockers. If it's not possible I need to find full floating axles.
- I am considering new shocks and springs with the same 2 inch lift that the old ones had. What else should I look into now that I'm down there? However this can be done while the body is on.
- I need to install new transfercase mounts and engine mounts. I want to do this while the body's off.
List to be continued. I'd appreciate input.
If you're feeling impatient and anxious as to the speed of my project, I understand when I look at what most of you guys can do in an afternoon. However this is also serves as a learning project for me. And I am pretty psyched about it!
Next move will be to get the frame outside and clean it as it's never been cleaned before. I'm not going to do very much about the body for a while now. My focus will be on the frame. I need to:
- Have more light installed in the barn (on it's way my old man promised).
- Clean the frame
- Galvanize and paint the frame (if it makes sense; I'll know that as soon as it's clean)
- Buy the differential lockers that I've found in Denmark (ARB air controlled) and install them if possible on my axles. From what I know my front axle is a full float and my rear is a semi float. I need to make certain of this, and then I can buy the lockers. If it's not possible I need to find full floating axles.
- I am considering new shocks and springs with the same 2 inch lift that the old ones had. What else should I look into now that I'm down there? However this can be done while the body is on.
- I need to install new transfercase mounts and engine mounts. I want to do this while the body's off.
List to be continued. I'd appreciate input.
If you're feeling impatient and anxious as to the speed of my project, I understand when I look at what most of you guys can do in an afternoon. However this is also serves as a learning project for me. And I am pretty psyched about it!
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Man that musta been a smidge stressful seeing it pitching nose downward eh?!
Just here to oogle... no real words other than encouragement!
Just here to oogle... no real words other than encouragement!
- Thread starter
- #50
@NeverGiveUpYota tell me about it! I was very afraid that something was forgotten or stuck. I had done a test-lift with a jack prior to the real lift, so I was pretty sure everything was ok. But still... 
That looks like it was an awesome trip through Central and South America.
I have a bunch of family in Denmark. My mother was born in Vejle. Most of my family over there still lives in Vejle and Odense. My Grandmother was the only one of her 10-ish siblings that ever left DK. We went back in 2004 for a reunion. Loved it, just haven't been able to get back since.
A great, great, great grand father on my Dad's side was a mayor or assistant mayor type thing in Svendborg in the mid-1800's before selling all of his belongings, buying a boat and sailing his family to Texas around 1860.
I have a bunch of family in Denmark. My mother was born in Vejle. Most of my family over there still lives in Vejle and Odense. My Grandmother was the only one of her 10-ish siblings that ever left DK. We went back in 2004 for a reunion. Loved it, just haven't been able to get back since.
A great, great, great grand father on my Dad's side was a mayor or assistant mayor type thing in Svendborg in the mid-1800's before selling all of his belongings, buying a boat and sailing his family to Texas around 1860.
I'll let you know. I'd love to come back just to hang out in a few of the places we ran through trying to see everything.
A stor ol and a smoked salmon sandwich have my name all over it.
A stor ol and a smoked salmon sandwich have my name all over it.
Looks like a great success! Nice work. I think your idea of galvanizing the frame is a good one, as long as you are prepared to strip all the accessories off, which it seems like you are. It appears you have semi float rear axles which are fine and you should be able to source an arb locker for it. If you want to go with a full float rear then you will need an axle out of and HJ-61 most likely. I know there are some threads on the different axle widths on different cruiser models. I will see if I can find it and report back, or others with more knowledge than me (not hard to find lol) can chime in.
While the body is off you really only have to make sure the frame is the way you want it, and the bottom of the truck is the way you want it. Everything else can be worked on later to spread out the restoration cost. It gets your truck back on the road quicker too. I suppose it would be nice to freshen the brake lines and fuel lines, since it is so easy now, and maybe clean the transmission/transfer case really well now.
Keep it up, it looks great!
While the body is off you really only have to make sure the frame is the way you want it, and the bottom of the truck is the way you want it. Everything else can be worked on later to spread out the restoration cost. It gets your truck back on the road quicker too. I suppose it would be nice to freshen the brake lines and fuel lines, since it is so easy now, and maybe clean the transmission/transfer case really well now.
Keep it up, it looks great!
- Thread starter
- #55
@Fitzwho anytime!
@dogfishlake would you even consider replacing the metal brake fluid lines? Or are you primarily thinking of the soft ones?
@dogfishlake would you even consider replacing the metal brake fluid lines? Or are you primarily thinking of the soft ones?
- Thread starter
- #56
Mission update. While the ship I work on is in a dry dock getting a refit, I have some more time to work on my LC.
Body's lifted off, and frame and engine is washed down. For now only with a high pressure washer and spray can engine cleaner. It didn't do as much as I hoped. The old grease wouldn't come off.
Any advice on how to get that stuff off? (Rather than scraping)
Next move is to start dismounting everything that is still on. Engine, transmission, transfer case, brake lines, steering and so on. I want the frame sandblasted and painted. So everything needs off.
It does start to look fine though after the thorough wash.
Body's lifted off, and frame and engine is washed down. For now only with a high pressure washer and spray can engine cleaner. It didn't do as much as I hoped. The old grease wouldn't come off.
Any advice on how to get that stuff off? (Rather than scraping)
Next move is to start dismounting everything that is still on. Engine, transmission, transfer case, brake lines, steering and so on. I want the frame sandblasted and painted. So everything needs off.
It does start to look fine though after the thorough wash.
- Thread starter
- #57
I also took the cover of the rear differential. Everything looks fine in there. I counted the teeth to make sure I wouldn't get problems with gearing when installing the ARB air lockers.
The shock is there to empty itself into the same bucket as the diff.
The shock is there to empty itself into the same bucket as the diff.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
True inspiring 60s story right here. Don’t know how I missed it but I guess you can’t read everything here on MuD. Your intro caught me, hook... line... & sinker! Keep up the awesome build and story. 
My ultimate goal is a trip to S. America to Patagonia. Visit friends at an orphanage in Peru. The diesel conversion will be nice as petrol is hard to find in places.
My ultimate goal is a trip to S. America to Patagonia. Visit friends at an orphanage in Peru. The diesel conversion will be nice as petrol is hard to find in places.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
I used purple power degreased which worked great with some Original Coors 
Soak overnight in degreaser. Spray down in brake clean.
You can also try hooking up the pressure washer to a hot water tank to help remove gunk.
You can also try hooking up the pressure washer to a hot water tank to help remove gunk.
