CV Boots Replaced with directions (2 Viewers)

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Surprise they haven't been mentioned yet (or I missed it) But I just get the remans from CVJ and get the high angle (better silicon) compound boots. They are OEM with upgraded boots. One thing to note on them though is they come with a very small "breather" tube on the boots so it can breath with shipping and alt. changes. DONT forget to take that breather tube out after install. Additionally if you send in your old ones for the core charge, if they are not OEM you will not get the money back.
 
suprarx7nut said:
Ha, old fekkers. I pretend to be wise beyond my years, haha.

I finally bought a proper C-Clip plier that's been a game changer. I actually forget which of the two below are useful on the 100.


I think I bought both after fighting with a clip and have since used them both for a few things. Makes it WAY easier than the super cheap parts store special set I had before.

You'll want a brass drift / hammer for the cone washers. After you fail to get the cone washers off with that recommended tool, you will probably need to progress to an air chisel, haha. I can usually get a cone or two off, but the majority tend to be more stubborn than I am. A very brief and very careful braaaaap of the air chisel will knock those washers loose. I always have a new set of washers handy so provided you don't damage the stud or the face I think the air chisel method is safe enough.

I also needed to use a pry bar to get the old axle pulled out. It's retained into the diff by an expanding clip and it can take a good bit of force to overcome. The service manual states to use a block on the axle, I think, but I have had a few that would not budge no matter how hard I whacked it. This is another case where very careful application of the "wrong" tool seems to work well.

Get yourself the service manual if you don't already have it. The actual physical manual. It details every step and shows you what parts are single use (AKA parts you are required to buy for this job even if they look good on your car). There are multiple torques you need so the manual is a must, IMO.

www.ebay.com

2001 Lexus LX470 SUV Workshop Shop Service Repair Manual Book Set 4.7L V8 | eBay

This is in very good condition.
www.ebay.com

I assume you have a torque wrench?

I'm sure there's other nice to have tools, but that covers the stuff off the top of my head.
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100% on getting the right C Clip pliers. I have the first one. If you are only changing the axle you don't need to remove the hub / cone washers. For the whole job you'll need some common wrenches / sockets, a Big Hammer (to pop out the top ball joint), something to support the caliper when you remove it, and a pry bar. Nothing too cosmic if you are just replacing the axle.
 
@suprarx7nut I'm embarrassed to say I actually DO have all three factory service manuals, the exact ones that you mentioned. This car has been so trouble-free for years that I completely forgot I had the books since I first purchased and baselined the car 5-6 years ago. SMH. I wish I were kidding. I need to actually look at them, all I needed was a reminder that I ACTUALLY HAVE THEM. LOL.

And yeah I've got a torque wrench. Absolutely no way to rebuild BMW VANOS units or properly reattach the Jesus nut without one of those. I'll check out the clip ring tools. Would still love to see a SOLID youtube video of this, I don't know axles so if I watched a complete idiot do the job I wouldn't know any better.

Thanks
 
As mentioned, actual c-clip pliers, a good hub nut socket, something good to pry with to pop the CV out of the diff, good bungies to hold the caliper and upper arm out of the way. Lots of gloves and rags.
 
@Bisho alright, next question. What constitutes "the whole job" to you? I am at 193k and this is all happening because of fully split-open CV boots (I don't trust re-booting them because they have been open to the elements). I am having zero noise or other problems, but IIRC some people do stuff with the bearings when it all comes apart (repack? replace?). I have completely redone a boat trailer axle successfully before but I've been more scared to f*** up my 100, haha.
 
Pyrenees said:
@Bisho alright, next question. What constitutes "the whole job" to you? I am at 193k and this is all happening because of fully split-open CV boots (I don't trust re-booting them because they have been open to the elements). I am having zero noise or other problems, but IIRC some people do stuff with the bearings when it all comes apart (repack? replace?). I have completely redone a boat trailer axle successfully before but I've been more scared to f*** up my 100, haha.
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You should repack your wheel bearings every 30k miles. This is really separate from an axle job, although when you have the axle out you may want to wipe out the old grease from the spindle bearings and mush some clean grease in there.

For bearings/hub, if the truck has been taken care of you may not need much, if not you may end up with a bunch of new parts. I ended up replacing most everything at 250kish miles because the previous folks didn't keep after it. The parts aren't terrible if you buy from partsouq.

If you are placing axles just because the boots are torn, then you probably don't need to replace the hubs. I realize now some of the other replies here are assuming you are replacing the hubs as well. If the teeth and axle have a snug fit you don't have to change them, but if there is play between the two you should. You can check this in advance by just taking off the grease cap with the wheel in the air and looking for rotational play.
 
Pyrenees said:
3) Lastly, does anyone have a recommended "gold standard" mud DIY or youtube video for this exact job? I'm still researching right now.
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Don't know if this is gold standard, but he covers swapping out CV axles pretty well. I was successful using a brass bar/drift for driving the axle out and back into the diff, per FSM. Good time to do the axle seals if they are leaky.

 
Pyrenees said:
@abuck99 @suprarx7nut @OwnerCS @Trunk Monkey @2001LC I have a 2001 LX (193k mi) with split CV boots. You guys are the old fekkers here and I'm glad y'all commented on this thread. You all have convinced me to tackle this job myself, and to suck it up and buy the real deal. My local Toyota parts counter has 43430-60040 for $377 a piece and I'm OK with that. I have NEVER done axles before but if I can do a timing chain job on a BMW M62 engine this shouldn't be horrible. I'm just an axle virgin.

1) What SPECIFIC tools for this job should I just invest in? I have sockets, an aircat gun, 33gal compressor, jackstands, all the usual crap that people who work on cars as a hobby have. But what is going to make THIS job easier?

2) @abuck99 in post 13 you mentioned a ton of other misc parts. Forgive me for being a complete dumbass with an axle job, but... do you know any P/Ns for these things? I don't know how this stuff even goes together. I've never serviced a car with brakes that come off as part of the hub assembly.

3) Lastly, does anyone have a recommended "gold standard" mud DIY or youtube video for this exact job? I'm still researching right now.

Thank you guys, this forum is magical for a reason.
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Follow the FSM your first time- remove the knuckle complete - no short cut method- as you risk damaging the brass bushing on the back of the knuckle, the large seal and stressing your lower ball joint-

I’ll post up my part list tonight. Looks like others have chimed in on tools and such.
 
Pyrenees said:
@Bisho alright, next question. What constitutes "the whole job" to you? I am at 193k and this is all happening because of fully split-open CV boots (I don't trust re-booting them because they have been open to the elements). I am having zero noise or other problems, but IIRC some people do stuff with the bearings when it all comes apart (repack? replace?). I have completely redone a boat trailer axle successfully before but I've been more scared to f*** up my 100, haha.
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If you have rebuilt vanos on a Bimmer then this will be a walk in the park!
 
FYI: "axel" should be axle.

I think axcel is some software product.
 
NMC_EXP said:
FYI: "axel" should be axle.

I think axcel is some software product.
Click to expand...
axel

ăk′səl

noun​

  1. A jump in figure skating that is initiated from the outer forward edge of one skate, followed by one and one-half midair turns and a return to the outer backward edge of the other skate.
  2. A jump with one (or more) and a half turns in the air.
 
I used a homemade PVC tool to drive in the seals. Believe the size was 1 1/2". Coupling on the driving end, short piece of pipe, and cap on the top to hit with mallet.
 
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Disregard the prices- (they are 5 yrs old)- assuming 2 axles replaced at same time this is my list- I replace all hardware- its not a must, just good practice.
1695864958705.png
 
TWO QUESTIONS:

Any idea how I can best repair the castle nut (or a P/N for a replacement)? I was trying to pop off the upper ball joints with a ball joint press tool to get the axles off. I guess the tool wasn't fully centered over the castle nut on the ball joint shaft, or it slipped a little in the process. It bent two of the little castle pieces outward. This wouldn't be a big deal, but now I can't get the 21mm socket over the top of the castle nut, and if I have to use channel locks I won't know exactly how torqued down it is when I reassemble it.

The rest of the job is going relatively smoothly though, I picked up the new non-reman axles from the local Toyota parts desk ($809 total). With the hub caps removed, I can see there is some play between the existing axle splines and the hub flange (191k mi). That probably explains the D-to-R and R-to-D clunk. If I install the new axles and there's still play, I guess I'll tackle the flanges. I can replace the flanges later without fully removing anything but the C-clip later on, right? If not, it would be good to know while this thing is taken apart now. Aka, I wouldn't want to yank apart all of this stuff again if that's what is needed.

Really, so far the most annoying thing about this job has been that I'm getting caked in the splattered CV axle grease that flew out and coated everything when the boots split open, haha.
 
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I would recommend just getting a new castle nut. The dealer should have one. Your experience is the reason most recommend flipping the castle nut around so the other side is facing the tool instead of the delicate fingers.
 
Pyrenees said:
TWO QUESTIONS:

Any idea how I can best repair the castle nut (or a P/N for a replacement)? I was trying to pop off the upper ball joints with a ball joint press tool to get the axles off. I guess the tool wasn't fully centered over the castle nut on the ball joint shaft, or it slipped a little in the process. It bent two of the little castle pieces outward. This wouldn't be a big deal, but now I can't get the 21mm socket over the top of the castle nut, and if I have to use channel locks I won't know exactly how torqued down it is when I reassemble it.

The rest of the job is going relatively smoothly though, I picked up the new non-reman axles from the local Toyota parts desk ($809 total). With the hub caps removed, I can see there is some play between the existing axle splines and the hub flange (191k mi). That probably explains the D-to-R and R-to-D clunk. If I install the new axles and there's still play, I guess I'll tackle the flanges. I can replace the flanges later without fully removing anything but the C-clip later on, right? If not, it would be good to know while this thing is taken apart now. Aka, I wouldn't want to yank apart all of this stuff again if that's what is needed.

Really, so far the most annoying thing about this job has been that I'm getting caked in the splattered CV axle grease that flew out and coated everything when the boots split open, haha.
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Given how cheap the drive flanges are, I would definitely replace them versus risking damaging the splines on your new much more expensive drive shafts.
 
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