CV Boots/Axle/Front Bearings Replacement side effects help (1 Viewer)

[BnvS]

Depends on how long they have been doing this and how much grease you think you've lost. These cvs have a s*** ton of grease in them so a little seeping isn't going to hurt them. But you should at least cut off the old clamps and reclamp them. The rolled edge band clamps work great.

Hey @Patassa what does a rolled edge band clamp look like? is it like the picture below? if correct do you know the sizes needed for the CV joints... also would this be better than what is supplied in the OEM CV boot kits you think?

 

[Patassa]

Hey @Patassa what does a rolled edge band clamp look like? is it like the picture below? if correct do you know the sizes needed for the CV joints... also would this be better than what is supplied in the OEM CV boot kits you think?

View attachment 3162534

Hi ser, yeah those rolled edges keep the band from cutting into the rubber boots. I bought mine as a kit, similar to this one

100-Series CV Axle Clamp Kit — CRUISER GARAGE

CV axles slinging grease? These clamps are the only solution! Fits all 1998-2007 100-Series Land Cruisers / LX470's and 2003-2009 4th Gen 4Runners (Most other Toyota SUV’s / Trucks will fit as well). Made popular by PFran. These are better than OEM and the highest quality clamps available, made from

cruisergarage.com

I wouldn't say these are better than the official clamps, but they are a hell of alot easier to work with and don't require a special tool.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

don't require a special tool

The OEM Toyota clamps for 100s also don’t require a special tool.

 

[Patassa]

The OEM Toyota clamps for 100s also don’t require a special tool.

Oh I didn't realize that, hmm. What tool would you use for that install? I assumed I needed some way to pull them tight.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Oh I didn't realize that, hmm. What tool would you use for that install? I assumed I needed some way to pull them tight.

No tool required, they’re already pre-bent and simply fold over at the bend by hand, then you just fold over two tabs to secure them in place. A punch and hammer can be useful to get the two tabs fully secured tho.

 

[TexLexican]

The inboard clamps do require a special tool. If bought at Napa then expect to throw them in the trash since they’re a PITA to use. I’d definitely go with the worm clamps.

 

[TexLexican]

 

[JunkCrzr89]

The inboard clamps do require a special tool. If bought at Napa then expect to throw them in the trash since they’re a PITA to use. I’d definitely go with the worm clamps.

After rebuilding a dozen axles, I’ve yet to need a tool for either.

 

[GVegasG]

After rebuilding a dozen axles, I’ve yet to need a tool for either.

Learned something new. I did not use them as could not figure out what tool to use

 

[Patassa]

I think the issue in this case would be putting the OEM style clamps on might not stop his seeping problem, with the worm clamps he can get a little more compression which might be all he needs. That's worked for me in the past. I could be wrong again though.

 

[GVegasG]

I also think it has to do with torque of the nut for the wheel bearing.
I have replaced mine not so long ago and ended up torquing to 40ish if I remember correctly which is way more than what the FSM noted.

@Gnarwgn​

One suggestion is to check temp of the flange after driving. It might get hotter if wheel bearings are not tight. Let me know if I can help any way.

 

[Patassa]

I also think it has to do with torque of the nut for the wheel bearing.
I have replaced mine not so long ago and ended up torquing to 40ish if I remember correctly which is way more than what the FSM noted.

@Gnarwgn​

One suggestion is to check temp of the flange after driving. It might get hotter if wheel bearings are not tight. Let me know if I can help any way.

Yeah the torque value is trash, I don't even bother with the torque wrench, it's all about the preload which is best measured by the spring scale.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I think the issue in this case would be putting the OEM style clamps on might not stop his seeping problem, with the worm clamps he can get a little more compression which might be all he needs. That's worked for me in the past. I could be wrong again though.

Very true. The OEM clamps work great with new boots. But the boots loose some of their “tightness” around the center shaft over time, leading to leaks. In such cases, the smoothband worm-drive clamps can stop the grease leaking for a while. Just have to be careful not to exceed the torque specs of those clamps.

 

[2001LC]

May I address the off OP topic of FDS boots grease weep, first: Inner CV boot from under small clamp, almost always leak in time/mile. I use the NAPA small CV clamp. In some, we see large clamp weep. I use large NAPA clamp. Where a crimp clamp is weeping, I re crimp (sung them). The screw clamp pictures above, looks like a good one also. However it will effect balance just a tiny bit more than the crimp type clamp. This tiny bit will not likely be felt, while cruising on the HWY. If it does cause a tiny bit of vibration. That vibration should smooth out, as grease redistributes in the CV.

Team -

235k, just had CV boots/axle/front bearings replaced by my good friends Les and Schwab. The job and time required are above my paygrade, so didn't even want to try. This felt like a pretty straightforward decision.

Now - experiencing a very specific side effect that did not exist previously. Quite simply, under acceleration starting at about 60mph (like an onramp), I'm getting low level vibration feedback coming from the front end. Low level meaning, I'm not experiencing an earthquake, but its a humming steady vibration. Can feel it through the steering column and front seats. As soon as I'm off the accelerator/coasting, its gone.

I've taken it back twice to LS to have them check their work, most recently including taking it out with both the tech (who did the work) and manager. They confirm that the work they completed checks out, and suggest that the vibration is a previously existing condition that is now noticeable because of the work they completed.

All other variables that I can possibly think of:

All stock except:
* Tundra wheels
* 305/65/18 KO2s
* TT sway bar links
* 1.25" Bora spacers

Last note - recently tightened my driver's side torsion bar. Initially made a bonehead move by sticking my jack under the lower control arm skid and using that as my jack point. Proceeded to loosen up the T-bar only to notice that taking out the tension caused the wheel to completely sink into the wheel well. Quickly jacked back up via the frame rail and finished up. I only mention this in the event that having the shock under full compression with no t bar support may have toasted the shock (or something else) and has something to do with what I am currently experiencing. However if that was the case, seems like I would be experiencing the issue more frequently than just while under acceleration.

Throwing this out there for those of you who are farther down this trail than I am, appreciate any insights.

"CV boots/axle/front bearings replaced" So either this was a reboot "job" or "axles" replacement, not both. The front drive shaft assembly (AKA FDS, AKA CV's). Have 3 axles and 2 CV's. The CV's, have boots on them!
Post a picture of your work-order (bill). It should list what parts used.

If LS did not replace tires, or swap them around. It is most likely they messed-up the services they did!. There are a few things they could have done wrong. Some can lead to damaging components and or be a safety issue.

You did what is required, by taking it back to LS and giving them they opportunity find & correct. Now take it to a Toyota Dealership. Find their most experience master tech, with a minimum of 25 years with Toyota. Have them see what they can find.

 

[Gnarwgn]

May I address the off OP topic of FDS boots grease weep, first: Inner CV boot from under small clamp, almost always leak in time/mile. I use the NAPA small CV clamp. In some, we see large clamp weep. I use large NAPA clamp. Where a crimp clamp is weeping, I re crimp (sung them). The screw clamp pictures above, looks like a good one also. However it will effect balance just a tiny bit more than the crimp type clamp. This tiny bit will not likely be felt, while cruising on the HWY. If it does cause a tiny bit of vibration. That vibration should smooth out, as grease redistributes in the CV.


"CV boots/axle/front bearings replaced" So either this was a reboot "job" or "axles" replacement, not both. The front drive shaft assembly (AKA FDS, AKA CV's). Have 3 axles and 2 CV's. The CV's, have boots on them!
Post a picture of your work-order (bill). It should list what parts used.

If LS did not replace tires, or swap them around. It is most likely they messed-up the services they did!. There are a few things they could have done wrong. Some can lead to damaging components and or be a safety issue.

You did what is required, by taking it back to LS and giving them they opportunity find & correct. Now take it to a Toyota Dealership. Find their most experience master tech, with a minimum of 25 years with Toyota. Have them see what they can find.

Thanks @2001LC - see attached. I will get it into Toyota as you suggest.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks @2001LC - see attached. I will get it into Toyota as you suggest.

They replaced FDS (CV), which includes boots. They used all cheap after market parts, throughout!.

Some parts each side I do not see replaced, that should have been. Tells me they did not follow factory recommended procedure.
1) No lock washer. Reusing old, can damage threads of spindle, and may not hold/lock.
2) No hub flange gasket.
3) No snap ring.
4) No grease cap.

What I see these types of shop do wrong.
1) Install oil, wheel hub seal backwards. These cause installer, to think wheel bearings are tight. The seal wears, and bearing loosen very quickly.
2) Failure to pack wheel hub cavity, with grease. Bearings can run dry, and burn up on long HWY drive.
3) Failure to lock wheel bearing nut to adjusting nut. Nuts walking off. Bearing loosen. Worst case wheels fall off.
4) Failure to properly gap and replace snap ring. Excessive wear of axle splines and hub flange. Old reused Snap rings, sometimes pops off.
5) Failure to replace grease cap. Possible water entry. Contaminating wheel bearing grease.
6) Diff side seal. When FDS replaced, it is advisable to replace these seal.

No mention or charge for grease axle bearing & brass bushing. Although some confusion as to the 3 bearing parts #, 2 of each. They show as wheel bearings. We've 4, they have 6 total.

 

[2001LC]

Even many Toyota/Lexus Dealership mess up wheel bearing service. Mostly due to taking short cuts, to save time. But they're your best bet to get this sorted out. Or A Land Cruiser specialty shop. Your local 4WH club(s) can help find you the best shop in your area.

Here's just one example of a 100 series brought to after bad wheel bearing service.
This was start of inspection:





Wheel hub seal set in backwards, metal of seal protrudes out. Metal rubs on back of steering knuckle spindle. Metal to metal!

Correct orientation of seal, is flat side out and flush with wheel hub..

 

[2003lx470]

Buy the boot kit. No need to get new CVs unless the splines are worn or the cage where the bearings are housed is damaged.

I am going to take LXfromTX advice and replace all the boots. Two weeks ago, I ordered the kit from a local Toyota dealer and still haven't gotten it. They say something to do with supply chain issues. I'll keep you'll post on this monkey

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I am going to take LXfromTX advice and replace all the boots. Two weeks ago, I ordered the kit from a local Toyota dealer and still haven't gotten it. They say something to do with supply chain issues. I'll keep you'll post on this monkey

You would’ve gotten them within 5 days had you ordered from Partsouq in Dubai.

 

[elhombre]

FYI - I ordered all the parts to do a reboot job on the front CV's along with front U-joints from Toyota Parts deal. They canceled the entire order two weeks later and said everything is back ordered with no indication of when they will become available. I sure hope this is simply a hic-up and not a trend in America. Going to Partsouq.....