CV Boots/Axle/Front Bearings Replacement side effects help

[cruiseroutfit]

I am going to take LXfromTX advice and replace all the boots. Two weeks ago, I ordered the kit from a local Toyota dealer and still haven't gotten it. They say something to do with supply chain issues. I'll keep you'll post on this monkey

Late to the game but we stock a great deal of the 100/470 CV boot kits @ @ Cruiser Outfitters and they can ship the same day you order.

CV Boot Kit - Fits 1998 - 2007 100/470 Applications (FACV60120)

Toyota Land Cruiser CV Boot Kit

cruiserteq.com

 

[Clubtroy]

They replaced FDS (CV), which includes boots. They used all cheap after market parts, throughout!.

Some parts each side I do not see replaced, that should have been. Tells me they did not follow factory recommended procedure.
1) No lock washer. Reusing old, can damage threads of spindle, and may not hold/lock.
2) No hub flange gasket.
3) No snap ring.
4) No grease cap.

What I see these types of shop do wrong.
1) Install oil, wheel hub seal backwards. These cause installer, to think wheel bearings are tight. The seal wears, and bearing loosen very quickly.
2) Failure to pack wheel hub cavity, with grease. Bearings can run dry, and burn up on long HWY drive.
3) Failure to lock wheel bearing nut to adjusting nut. Nuts walking off. Bearing loosen. Worst case wheels fall off.
4) Failure to properly gap and replace snap ring. Excessive wear of axle splines and hub flange. Old reused Snap rings, sometimes pops off.
5) Failure to replace grease cap. Possible water entry. Contaminating wheel bearing grease.
6) Diff side seal. When FDS replaced, it is advisable to replace these seal.

No mention or charge for grease axle bearing & brass bushing. Although some confusion as to the 3 bearing parts #, 2 of each. They show as wheel bearings. We've 4, they have 6 total.

@2001LC - common grease monkey hack here in need of advice. I recently totally rebuilt the front end on my 98 model I bought with 239k miles. I used all OEM parts on everything except the CVs. I have a 75 FJ40 frame off draining my wallet so I rolled the dice on TrakMotive TO-8139HDX CVs. I followed every step of the FSM and I replaced both Diff oil seals, every Diff bushing and the support arms with Toyota parts also. The truck drove great until i installed the Ironman Stage 3 lift and test drove it before I put the Diff drop bracket on. After getting a bad vibration coming up through the front drivetrain and Diff shift lever I installed the Diff drop bracket and noticed I have a small gap between the end of the CV joint and the Diff flange. Before I tear it apart again and start trying to push the CV in farther I would like the opinion of a 100 series jedi master.
Can you check this photo and confirm if the CV is seated correctly or if that gap means it is NOT? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in Advance!

 

[Gnarwgn]

Since I started the string, I thought I'd report back and hopefully save folks this headache in the future. Most important lesson learned, never switch out your CV axles! Just get the boots done. Finally got Les Schwab to own their mistake by sending them an eval from Toyota, which pointed to the crappy CV axle replacements that Les Schwab claimed were 100% fine. These were creating the drivetrain vibration. Replaced with a Cardone reman alternative, and the vibration is gone 2 months and 7-8 trips later. Sometimes you have to learn the hard way!

 

[Mike NXP]

Since I started the string, I thought I'd report back and hopefully save folks this headache in the future. Most important lesson learned, never switch out your CV axles! Just get the boots done. Finally got Les Schwab to own their mistake by sending them an eval from Toyota, which pointed to the crappy CV axle replacements that Les Schwab claimed were 100% fine. These were creating the drivetrain vibration. Replaced with a Cardone reman alternative, and the vibration is gone 2 months and 7-8 trips later. Sometimes you have to learn the hard way!

After all that you still installed a remanned axle, great shame.

 

[Gnarwgn]

After all that you still installed a remanned axle, great shame.

yeah well, whats worse - a remmaned axle that works, or a non remanned axle that does not...

 

[Mike NXP]

yeah well, whats worse - a remmaned axle that works, or a non remanned axle that does not...

Non remanned - aftermarket though?.... Just lots of threads of people having bad luck with non-oem but that doesn't mean they are all cursed.. Hope you have better luck.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

yeah well, whats worse - a remmaned axle that works, or a non remanned axle that does not...

That’s analogous to asking which dumpster full of trash smells worse - the one with a dead and rotting opossum or the one with bags of dog $hit?

 

[menancyandsam]

@2001LC - common grease monkey hack here in need of advice. I recently totally rebuilt the front end on my 98 model I bought with 239k miles. I used all OEM parts on everything except the CVs. I have a 75 FJ40 frame off draining my wallet so I rolled the dice on TrakMotive TO-8139HDX CVs. I followed every step of the FSM and I replaced both Diff oil seals, every Diff bushing and the support arms with Toyota parts also. The truck drove great until i installed the Ironman Stage 3 lift and test drove it before I put the Diff drop bracket on. After getting a bad vibration coming up through the front drivetrain and Diff shift lever I installed the Diff drop bracket and noticed I have a small gap between the end of the CV joint and the Diff flange. Before I tear it apart again and start trying to push the CV in farther I would like the opinion of a 100 series jedi master.
Can you check this photo and confirm if the CV is seated correctly or if that gap means it is NOT? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in Advance!

View attachment 3215774

Not an expert but that gap looks good. Check some of 2001LC threads he comments on similar gaps.

 

[GVegasG]

Since I started the string, I thought I'd report back and hopefully save folks this headache in the future. Most important lesson learned, never switch out your CV axles! Just get the boots done. Finally got Les Schwab to own their mistake by sending them an eval from Toyota, which pointed to the crappy CV axle replacements that Les Schwab claimed were 100% fine. These were creating the drivetrain vibration. Replaced with a Cardone reman alternative, and the vibration is gone 2 months and 7-8 trips later. Sometimes you have to learn the hard way!

Glad problem got resolved.
How certain are you that only CV axles were the problem and not combination of CV axles and improper torque for the bearings?

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC - common grease monkey hack here in need of advice. I recently totally rebuilt the front end on my 98 model I bought with 239k miles. I used all OEM parts on everything except the CVs. I have a 75 FJ40 frame off draining my wallet so I rolled the dice on TrakMotive TO-8139HDX CVs. I followed every step of the FSM and I replaced both Diff oil seals, every Diff bushing and the support arms with Toyota parts also. The truck drove great until i installed the Ironman Stage 3 lift and test drove it before I put the Diff drop bracket on. After getting a bad vibration coming up through the front drivetrain and Diff shift lever I installed the Diff drop bracket and noticed I have a small gap between the end of the CV joint and the Diff flange. Before I tear it apart again and start trying to push the CV in farther I would like the opinion of a 100 series jedi master.
Can you check this photo and confirm if the CV is seated correctly or if that gap means it is NOT? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in Advance!

View attachment 3215774

Gap looks good. Test is pulling outward by hand on FDS. It should not come out any further.

 

[Clubtroy]

Gap looks good. Test is pulling outward by hand on FDS. It should not come out any further.

Thank you. Still have the damn vibration so going to have to pony up the $515 to Toyota dealer. Just hope i can get away with only doing the one side for now. Wish i would’ve read this thread before replacing the CV axles!!

i would never buy aftermarket or reman again. The 3 vs 6 ball joint makes a huge difference in addition to Japanese QC.

 

[2001LC]

IMHO OME FDS (AKA CV) are worth the cost.

The CV's of FDS, certainly can be cause of a vibration.

We must also look close at; wheel bearings, wheel hub face, wheels back where it butts the wheel hubs face, tire balance.

Loose wheel bearings


Here's a bad brake rotor replacement. Where they beat on hub face with steel, to separate rotor. This distorted the metal face of wheel hub and the back of the wheel. Which can lead to a number of issues.