CV axles oem vs am (4 Viewers)

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Ok folks, going to stir this up again. Ever since I have put lift in, by reputable shop here in Austin, OEM CV's started leaking where axel meets boot on both outer sides. Replaced both 70k mi OEM with new OEM..........within a year, same issue. Was able to warranty them out by a couple of days. The replacement OEM is now shot after 14 months with one torn DS boot. Now time for 4th set of CV's. What to do? See my signature for build. Truck sits correctly, center of hub to bottom of fender = 21.5", maybe lower TB's a half inch? Getting tired of OEM $ plus labor. Mechanic says the rubber on OEM is crap and suggest aftermarket which he has never had come back. Dealer parts guy says I am the only one that keeps having issues.
Are you pairing new axles with new hub flanges? How do the flanges look? How severe is your outer CV angle sitting still?
 
Ok folks, going to stir this up again. Ever since I have put lift in, by reputable shop here in Austin, OEM CV's started leaking where axel meets boot on both outer sides. Replaced both 70k mi OEM with new OEM..........within a year, same issue. Was able to warranty them out by a couple of days. The replacement OEM is now shot after 14 months with one torn DS boot. Now time for 4th set of CV's. What to do? See my signature for build. Truck sits correctly, center of hub to bottom of fender = 21.5", maybe lower TB's a half inch? Getting tired of OEM $ plus labor. Mechanic says the rubber on OEM is crap and suggest aftermarket which he has never had come back. Dealer parts guy says I am the only one that keeps having issues.
I think @ramangain may have a new avenue for you to speak with tech about. Maybe Paul (@2001LC ) or Andrew (@abuck99 ) have some ideas. When I had mine lifted Paul recommended new driveshafts, which we did. After 35k miles and many off-road trips, no issues thus far. I started at the same measurement from hub to fender as you, but have settled to 21.0” since adding bumper/winch.
 
There's also a thread started by Mauser regarding some potential hidden gem axles on Amazon.
 
Are you pairing new axles with new hub flanges? How do the flanges look? How severe is your outer CV angle sitting still?
Don't know, will get back to u, thanks.
 
I think @ramangain may have a new avenue for you to speak with tech about. Maybe Paul (@2001LC ) or Andrew (@abuck99 ) have some ideas. When I had mine lifted Paul recommended new driveshafts, which we did. After 35k miles and many off-road trips, no issues thus far. I started at the same measurement from hub to fender as you, but have settled to 21.0” since adding bumper/winch.
Thx, @BCM
 
Ok folks, going to stir this up again. Ever since I have put lift in, by reputable shop here in Austin, OEM CV's started leaking where axel meets boot on both outer sides. Replaced both 70k mi OEM with new OEM..........within a year, same issue. Was able to warranty them out by a couple of days. The replacement OEM is now shot after 14 months with one torn DS boot. Now time for 4th set of CV's. What to do? See my signature for build. Truck sits correctly, center of hub to bottom of fender = 21.5", maybe lower TB's a half inch? Getting tired of OEM $ plus labor. Mechanic says the rubber on OEM is crap and suggest aftermarket which he has never had come back. Dealer parts guy says I am the only one that keeps having issues.

Did you add a diff drop when the lift was installed? If not, the CV angles may be too much and causing the failures.
 
Well.... I rebuilt mine about 3 years ago and even put the better rings around the boots so that they were not sharp but more rounded edges. Boots tore again within the 3 years and very low miles driven on them during that time. I do not want to have to spend the money on the new OEM CVs but I suppose its spend it now or double later. My CVs are clicking like crazy and although I dream of them being ok to still use, its highly doubtful.
 
Well.... I rebuilt mine about 3 years ago and even put the better rings around the boots so that they were not sharp but more rounded edges. Boots tore again within the 3 years and very low miles driven on them during that time. I do not want to have to spend the money on the new OEM CVs but I suppose its spend it now or double later. My CVs are clicking like crazy and although I dream of them being ok to still use, its highly doubtful.
Yeah if they are clicking then they are likely done. Since you have the newer clamps, you can swap them over to the new and just put them over top of the new to help.
Do you have a lift or anything on your truck? If so, that will add angle to the CVs which will cause wear.
 
i have an Ironman lift kit installed on my 2007 and a diff drop kit as well. My OEM front axles are both shot, clicking when turning and driving straight. New Toyota OEM axles appear to be in the $450-$470 range (plus $40 core) from McGeorge Toyota or my local Toyota dealer. Part number 43430-60040 is the OEM brand new. I don't want to swap in for OEM and have the boots start to tear on day 366 of my warranty. Are folks with lifts having the boots tear on OEM axles? What about CVJ with the red boot?
 
OEM boots are best. With your diff drop you'll be fine, with new OEM FDS. Very likely, need to re-clamp inner small in year or two.

FWIW. Any change in height, even with diff drop (Unless puts FDS (AKA CV) at same inclination) will result in clicking. If FDS are worn-in much more than few thousand miles.
 
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FWIW. Any change in height, even with diff drop (Unless puts FDS (AKA CV) at same inclination) will result in clicking.
This is categorically false. Plenty of lifted rigs with and without diff drops where clicking is a non-issue with OEM FDSs over the long haul.
 
Just adding another day point here. I’ve replaced the drivers CV 1x and the passenger 2x in 2 years time, approximately 18k miles.
The truck is lifted, with a diff drop. Both CVs are clicking like mad.

The recommendation I received this week was to replace both along with drive flanges using OEM parts.
 
Another option are rebuilt Oem for about 1/3 the cost of new ones. CVJ Axles CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

This is what I'm running. Lifted/For Moderate Angles/Best

9534 TR
 
This is what I'm running. Lifted/For Moderate Angles/Best

9534 TR
I considered these, however without oem axles to send in, OEM is cheaper.
 
Just adding another day point here. I’ve replaced the drivers CV 1x and the passenger 2x in 2 years time, approximately 18k miles.
The truck is lifted, with a diff drop. Both CVs are clicking like mad.

The recommendation I received this week was to replace both along with drive flanges using OEM parts.
Which CVs do you have now that have failed?
 
Which CVs do you have now that have failed?
1x from Napa 2x from Advance Auto. Just their off the shelf offerings.
My hope was that they’d last 50k but everytime the boots tear or I get a bad clicking sound I’ve got something coming up and need it fixed asap.
At this point the labor I’m paying to swap the cheap axles is in the same ballpark as buying oem
 

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