So between oem vs aftermarket is there anyone who builds a stronger aftermarket cv axle fir a 99 LC?
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CV axles oem vs am
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Toyota OEM's are the best choice by all reports.
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Not to be critical of the info here but is there any specific data in regards to strength, longevity, design, etc...or is it primarily a "we use toyota parts because everyone says use toyota parts" sort of thing?
Just curious...again, not trying to be critical.
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Just curious...again, not trying to be critical.
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Numerous quality and longevity issues with aftermarket. I can't point to which brands, but it's documented all over the place and isn't just limited to the toyota 100 series.
Search for a thread by spressomon, he had side by side pics of NAPA vs. OEM. NAPA was thinner in diameter and joints were smaller. He didn't get many miles out of it.
Another option are rebuilt Oem for about 1/3 the cost of new ones. CVJ Axles CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs
I've had the same experience as noted here, OEM is significantly better than the after market version I tried (before I knew better).
I have to admit it though, I don't really get how an OEM CV axle is the best option. Perhaps some engineers here (pro or otherwise) could give a quick reason why there is no upgrade. I understand that the more you crank the T bars, even after a diff drop, the more severe the angles get. I also understand that CV axles work better and last longer the less severe the angle. So, engineers, if you were to change the design of a CV axles to handle severe angles, what would you change?
I have to admit it though, I don't really get how an OEM CV axle is the best option. Perhaps some engineers here (pro or otherwise) could give a quick reason why there is no upgrade. I understand that the more you crank the T bars, even after a diff drop, the more severe the angles get. I also understand that CV axles work better and last longer the less severe the angle. So, engineers, if you were to change the design of a CV axles to handle severe angles, what would you change?
I own a machine shop why not just make our own thick fat chromoly CV axels?
@m3roar
If I understand correctly, the clicking and eventual failure is in the joint itself (the bearings, tulip etc). I don't know if size is that big of a deal here. But if you mean increasing the size of every part, maybe that does it.
Anyone know what would help the wear? For example, I know OEM uses 6 bearing and some/all aftermarkets use 3. A design with more bearings?
On a side note, would jumping into axle prototyping be remotely cost effective? I sure like the idea, but then again it's not my shop hours.
If I understand correctly, the clicking and eventual failure is in the joint itself (the bearings, tulip etc). I don't know if size is that big of a deal here. But if you mean increasing the size of every part, maybe that does it.
Anyone know what would help the wear? For example, I know OEM uses 6 bearing and some/all aftermarkets use 3. A design with more bearings?
On a side note, would jumping into axle prototyping be remotely cost effective? I sure like the idea, but then again it's not my shop hours.
If RCV makes 80 series axles, why not for the 100 series? Are there no aftermarket upgrades available? I know upgrading the axles moves the fuse in the front end to the gearset or carrier though, so maybe the stock units are strong enough to be the fuse since the 100s use drive plates. It would be nice to have locking hubs with a tensile strength below the axles to be designed to blow before the shafts do. I know warn makes those for dana axles.
Ultimate CV Axle Set for Land Cruiser 80 Series ('91-'97)
Ultimate CV Axle Set for Land Cruiser 80 Series ('91-'97)
From what I've read over the years here it's not the axles you need to worry about. The boots may start to leak but other than that, watch your diff gears! Axles have a good long life history. One of my boots blew out at about 165K and the CV's were still like new. No wear at all. I just put new boots on and regreased and now have a good spare. No worries there.
Other than rebooting form proper grease type & amount, the weak link seem to be the outboard axle teeth. Wear here, for the most part, is due to loose wheel bearing and wide snap ring to hub flange gap. If buying rebuilt it's a good idea to take a brand new hub flange to test teeth of axle for backlash. Rebuilder's will say you need some play or you not get assembled....WRONG. Dealer uses new OEM front drive shaft and new OEM flange hub when doing warrantee, which have zero back lash (play) otherwise they'll be chase the clunk form N to D.
Parts guy at Dealer said OEM is cost prohibitive, so they sell only "AM" except for warrantee work.
Two issue rebuilders may run into, is the outboard axle tulip and outboard dust cover no longer have a part number at Dealer. I'd love to find some new outboard tulips if anyone knows of a source?
Parts guy at Dealer said OEM is cost prohibitive, so they sell only "AM" except for warrantee work.
Two issue rebuilders may run into, is the outboard axle tulip and outboard dust cover no longer have a part number at Dealer. I'd love to find some new outboard tulips if anyone knows of a source?
I just put in rebuilt version from CVJ in Denver. After a recent torsion bar crank, the boots gave up the ghost and I developed a noise under acceleration that went away when coasting. Increased angels on 200k CVs might have been to much change.
Noise is gone and so is some of the driveline thud that occurred when hitting the gas after coasting.
My$.02
Noise is gone and so is some of the driveline thud that occurred when hitting the gas after coasting.
My$.02
What do they run? it wasn't on the site. Do they use the oem boots or a better quality boot?
Something to keep in mind; Toyota OEM axles are the best by popular reports. Toyota CV boots are the best choice available. It seems fewer issues are experienced if screw clamps are used in place of the clamps provided with the Toyota boots. Have used the screw clamps referenced below without issue and believe most, that used them, will agree. No balance issues and are easy to install.
Here are the part numbers and descriptions:
Available from McMastercarr.com
#5574K25 (4-4 3/4')
#5574K16 (1-1 5/8')
They come in packs of more than one and provide extras for future use. Tapered edges removes the issue of cutting into boots. They are also stainless steel - no rust.
Tried and proved many times by many members. Many threads addressing this issue.
If you are looking for cheap Advance Auto and others offer axles for about $75.00 each with a long warranty.
The question is; "how may times do you want to replace them"?
Here are the part numbers and descriptions:
Available from McMastercarr.com
#5574K25 (4-4 3/4')
#5574K16 (1-1 5/8')
They come in packs of more than one and provide extras for future use. Tapered edges removes the issue of cutting into boots. They are also stainless steel - no rust.
Tried and proved many times by many members. Many threads addressing this issue.
If you are looking for cheap Advance Auto and others offer axles for about $75.00 each with a long warranty.
The question is; "how may times do you want to replace them"?
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I called and checked a few months ago if I recall correctly the rebuilt CVJ is around $125 + $75 core charge + shipping ea.
Depending on where you are located the cost of shipping both ways might put the total cost around $200 +\- (per side) after you send the core back to get your deposit. Still cheaper than a well discounted new Oem by $150- or more.
True, thats about the cost. I went through my mechanic/parts house (mark up) plus I got red "Porsche" boots (heavy duty/$50ea) on the the inners because of the 'extreme' angles... Even the standard boot in black on the outer looks longer than OEM
Are the boots the weak point? I'd think that the actual joints would be the fail points, if there's even enough data to confirm the accentuated angles make a measurable difference in the life of the joints.
I had my CV's rebooted recently with OEM boots (@~125k miles) - mechanic said everything looked good and I've been running the front lifted since I bought it.
I had my CV's rebooted recently with OEM boots (@~125k miles) - mechanic said everything looked good and I've been running the front lifted since I bought it.