CV Axles and Steering Rack (2 Viewers)

Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
24
Location
St. Louis
I bought this 2005 LX from a Lexus dealer with 191k miles. The CV axles and steering rack seems are leaking/wet. They said the parts just begin to wear and the tech from the dealer said the CV axle can last another 40k to 50k miles and the steering rack can last up to another 70k miles. I doubt that information is correct as they did mention the CV axle and steering rack to be replaced in their inspection report. So are you guys seeing the same? I am budgeting future repairs of the truck and planing to get this fixed in another 20k miles. I would like to see how long those parts can last before I make decision on those repairs. I checked the steering fluid reservoir, the fluid is in the middle of Max and Min when the car is cold. And I don't plan to use this truck to do overlanding. Just a family hauler.

PS:
Below is the comment from the dealer:
  • CV axles. Axles are in good working order. Boots are leaking a small amount of grease (normal for age.) Axels are free of popping or clicking noises. No safety concern.
  • Power steering rack. Power steering rack boot ends are wet. Boots showing wear. Power steering rack is opperating with 100% movement and without abnromal noises. No safety concern.
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Joined
Jan 5, 2017
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Charlotte, NC & Alexandria, VA
I just did this on my 2000 LX470 a couple of months ago. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell how long the rack will last, as the problem isn't the rack, it's the bushings at each end which support the rack.. Toyota designed them to be integral with the rack assembly, meaning you aren't supposed to replace them. There are sources for them, however, and if you have a press and some tooling you can rebuild them. Replacement cost of the assembly is about $450, and that's a good price, not a dealer price. This is really a straightforward job that can be done by someone with reasonable mechanical ability and common tools, it's just messy.

You need to completely flush the power steering fluid first, so that you will be installing the new rack into a system with clean fluid. Then plug off the hoses and pull the rack, clean everything you can see and install the new rack, IIRC, there are four bolts holding the rack in place.

I didn't have to repair the CV joints, so I can't help you with recent costs there, but you can get them form PartSouq; Longo Lexus in CA has reasonably decent prices as does McGeorge in VA. The rack is the same for the Land Cruiser and Lexus, although you'll pay more if you buy from Lexus. Domestic parts suppliers charge (a little) more per part, but the shipping is significantly less than it is from overseas.

HTH
 

2020 Rocks

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Columbus, OH
I bought this 2005 LX from a Lexus dealer with 191k miles. The CV axles and steering rack seems are leaking/wet. They said the parts just begin to wear and the tech from the dealer said the CV axle can last another 40k to 50k miles and the steering rack can last up to another 70k miles. I doubt that information is correct as they did mention the CV axle and steering rack to be replaced in their inspection report. So are you guys seeing the same? I am budgeting future repairs of the truck and planing to get this fixed in another 20k miles. I would like to see how long those parts can last before I make decision on those repairs. I checked the steering fluid reservoir, the fluid is in the middle of Max and Min when the car is cold. And I don't plan to use this truck to do overlanding. Just a family hauler.

PS:
Below is the comment from the dealer:
  • CV axles. Axles are in good working order. Boots are leaking a small amount of grease (normal for age.) Axels are free of popping or clicking noises. No safety concern.
  • Power steering rack. Power steering rack boot ends are wet. Boots showing wear. Power steering rack is opperating with 100% movement and without abnromal noises. No safety concern.
View attachment 2553816View attachment 2553817View attachment 2553818View attachment 2553819View attachment 2553821
wipe everything down for starters
the cv boots if not torn can be reclamped, 30 minutes to do max
flush out your power steering fluid and add fresh synthetic atf and add atp at-205 Is My Rack Blown? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-my-rack-blown.1002843/#post-11141697
you may be able to get a lot of life out of what you have
i was recently quoted 1200 for a power steering rack job at a toyota dealer (they would not fix a bushing issue that i had and that was their solution, i passed on their kind offer)
 
Joined
Oct 27, 2014
Messages
1,981
Location
Florida
Time for new rack. As for the CV's you can remove the old clamps and try to use new worm screw type clamps to tighten down the rubber.
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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Apr 16, 2019
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Colorado
Swap some AT205 into the pump. Pop the rack boots off and clean everything up and drive it for awhile. Recheck to see if the AT205 worked. The dealer is right. If the bushings are good on the rack, it's fine and a mild leak on a rack can be nursed for quite a long time. It's up to you if you care or not, many here try the AT205 and get good results.

As has been said, reclamp the CVs and run them, dealer is right.

I'm both surprised and impressed by this dealers advice. Rare honesty.
 

ramangain

Clarksonian disciple
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Atlantis - recently discovered in the Rust Belt
I bought this 2005 LX from a Lexus dealer with 191k miles. The CV axles and steering rack seems are leaking/wet. They said the parts just begin to wear and the tech from the dealer said the CV axle can last another 40k to 50k miles and the steering rack can last up to another 70k miles. I doubt that information is correct as they did mention the CV axle and steering rack to be replaced in their inspection report. So are you guys seeing the same? I am budgeting future repairs of the truck and planing to get this fixed in another 20k miles. I would like to see how long those parts can last before I make decision on those repairs. I checked the steering fluid reservoir, the fluid is in the middle of Max and Min when the car is cold. And I don't plan to use this truck to do overlanding. Just a family hauler.

PS:
Below is the comment from the dealer:
  • CV axles. Axles are in good working order. Boots are leaking a small amount of grease (normal for age.) Axels are free of popping or clicking noises. No safety concern.
  • Power steering rack. Power steering rack boot ends are wet. Boots showing wear. Power steering rack is opperating with 100% movement and without abnromal noises. No safety concern.
View attachment 2553816View attachment 2553817View attachment 2553818View attachment 2553819View attachment 2553821
While you're down in there, a new bushing for the sway bar mount may not be a bad idea too (1st pic). At minimum see if you can tighten it up
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
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I agree with the dealer. These are good items to watch and plan for, but no need to take action immediately.

Budget ~$1500 for new CVs, seals, cone washers, hub flanges, C-clips, etc...

Budget ~$1000 for a new steering rack, tie rod ends.

Those are parts prices. Roughly double those figures to include labor.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
24
Location
St. Louis
I should have posted separate threads as I realized those are different issues. Thanks for all the replies and I have done some searches in the forum.

On the CV axles:

If I do a re-clamp, as some grease has lost already, how do I get that amount of grease lost into the boot? I assume I have no way to know how much amount of grease has lost. The FSM did mention the clamp and the boot is not to be re-used. The part and tools and from below post seems a reasonable solution if I do re clamp.


My thought process if those CV axles can last another 20k - 30k miles without issues then I may be able to leave them there and save up for new OEM axles. If re-clamp can increase the life of those axles to 50k-70k miles or more, I will try that. As I am a little afraid if I could safely remove the old clamp without damaging the boot and also concern about over tight the new clamp. As someone just start do my own maintenance, I have broke engine cover stud bolts and brake a caliper bolt on my other cars, then I bought my torque wrench.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
132
Location
Azle, TX
Don’t sweat doing the clamps-it is a very easy job. Get the McMaster-Carr clamps. You’ll be in it about $25 and have spares in case you over tighten one. The boots are tough. You can cut off the old clamp At the crimp with a good Set of side cutters. They may last another 100k, especially as a mall crawler.

If you flush the power steering and add AT205 and good synthetic fluid, you very well could stop the leaks and get another 100k out of the rack, too. It’s certainly worth the $25 you’ll spend to give it a try. Loosen the boots and drain any fluid out of them as well.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
24
Location
St. Louis
Don’t sweat doing the clamps-it is a very easy job. Get the McMaster-Carr clamps. You’ll be in it about $25 and have spares in case you over tighten one. The boots are tough. You can cut off the old clamp At the crimp with a good Set of side cutters. They may last another 100k, especially as a mall crawler.

If you flush the power steering and add AT205 and good synthetic fluid, you very well could stop the leaks and get another 100k out of the rack, too. It’s certainly worth the $25 you’ll spend to give it a try. Loosen the boots and drain any fluid out of them as well.
Thanks. I believe this is the clamp that you are referring to. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/hose-clamps/clamps-and-ferrules-for-hose-and-tubing/worm-drive-clamps-with-smooth-bands-for-soft-hose-and-tube-8/

Any idea on which size or item number I should use for the inner boot small clamp?
 
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
1,317
Location
Sacramento area, CA
At the time I bought a third size, Know the you need the large one, don't remember which is the other size you need.

5574K25 304 Stainless Steel Smooth-Band Worm-Drive Hose Clamp, 4" to 4-3/4" Clamp Diameter Range, 3/8" Band Width, Packs of 10
5574K16 304 Stainless Steel Smooth-Band Worm-Drive Hose Clamp, 1" to 1-5/8" Clamp Diameter Range, 3/8" Band Width, Packs of 10
5574K19 304 Stainless Steel Smooth-Band Worm-Drive Hose Clamp, 2" to 2-3/4" Clamp Diameter Range, 3/8" Band Width, Packs of 10
 

Tanner H

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Corona, CA
@UltTrail runner I bought my mcmaster clamps from Cruiser Garage. no guess work and they send you out all 8. I purchased these one day and they were shipped out the very next day. He's also a member on here.

 

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
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Good stuff to keep and eye on for sure. Get under there and give everything a good cleaning with a degreaser. Then watch and see what is leaking and how much.
Likely the axles could use a reboot rather than replacement but may be serviceable with the McMaster-Carr clamps. The reboot job isn't all the bad and took me a couple hours to rebuild my axles (I bought used inners and replaced outer axles parts which came with new boot stuff) but wasn't an overly difficult job.

As for the steering rack, mine is doing similar and talking with one of the guys in my club that is a Toyota Tech and recently did some work for me (due to lacking a garage) he said that it did not look bad enough to need replacement NOW but something to keep an eye on. When it starts leaking badly then go NEW.... DO NOT buy a rebuilt as Toyota has yet to find a vendor that can properly rebuild without having them leak within a year.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
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Location
St. Louis
Good stuff to keep and eye on for sure. Get under there and give everything a good cleaning with a degreaser. Then watch and see what is leaking and how much.
Likely the axles could use a reboot rather than replacement but may be serviceable with the McMaster-Carr clamps. The reboot job isn't all the bad and took me a couple hours to rebuild my axles (I bought used inners and replaced outer axles parts which came with new boot stuff) but wasn't an overly difficult job.

As for the steering rack, mine is doing similar and talking with one of the guys in my club that is a Toyota Tech and recently did some work for me (due to lacking a garage) he said that it did not look bad enough to need replacement NOW but something to keep an eye on. When it starts leaking badly then go NEW.... DO NOT buy a rebuilt as Toyota has yet to find a vendor that can properly rebuild without having them leak within a year.
Good stuff to keep and eye on for sure. Get under there and give everything a good cleaning with a degreaser. Then watch and see what is leaking and how much.
Likely the axles could use a reboot rather than replacement but may be serviceable with the McMaster-Carr clamps. The reboot job isn't all the bad and took me a couple hours to rebuild my axles (I bought used inners and replaced outer axles parts which came with new boot stuff) but wasn't an overly difficult job.

As for the steering rack, mine is doing similar and talking with one of the guys in my club that is a Toyota Tech and recently did some work for me (due to lacking a garage) he said that it did not look bad enough to need replacement NOW but something to keep an eye on. When it starts leaking badly then go NEW.... DO NOT buy a rebuilt as Toyota has yet to find a vendor that can properly rebuild without having them leak within a year.
This is exactly my thought process. Clean the area first and drive for a while, then I may have an idea on how much leaks and takes how long.

I see no one talk about to add grease in the boot while doing a re clamp job. I assume this will be either unnecessary or hard to operate.

For the steering rack, I would keep an eye on the fluid level and the leak/sweat progress. Just to have a better understanding per the leakage first. Eventually I think I will need a new rack. If I goes by the book a LX 2005 rack is at $1050 part number 44250-60120. I know there has been discussion about if LC and LX parts are interchangeable. But I could not find that someone know what exactly the difference between those 2 or just the same.
 

Tanner H

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I see no one talk about to add grease in the boot while doing a re clamp job. I assume this will be either unnecessary or hard to operate.
Very common and highly recommended actually. The problem is you dont know how much grease has left the building or if the remaining grease has been compromised with water/road grime. Its recommended to completely clean out, rather than to add grease.

Lots of people (including myself) have:

-removed all 8 bands
-carefully pulled back boots to let the watery grease drain from the boots
-use a ton of engine desgreaser to clean out all metal parts and inside of boots
-dry
-apply fresh appropriate cv grease
-reband with new clamps
-enjoy
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
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Location
St. Louis
Very common and highly recommended actually. The problem is you dont know how much grease has left the building or if the remaining grease has been compromised with water/road grime. Its recommended to completely clean out, rather than to add grease.

Lots of people (including myself) have:

-removed all 8 bands
-carefully pulled back boots to let the watery grease drain from the boots
-use a ton of engine desgreaser to clean out all metal parts and inside of boots
-dry
-apply fresh appropriate cv grease
-reband with new clamps
-enjoy
^^^ That sounds like a fun job :)
 

Tanner H

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Yeah Its a messy job no matter how careful you are. But if your boots are still in good condition then its an inexpensive way to keep those oem axles going for a long time. The old grease comes out very soupy if its old so i would recommend an oil drain pan or something similar.
 

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