Another CV Axle Discussion Thread (2 Viewers)

[OwnerCS]

I just want to check to make sure I'm not overlooking some high quality CV axle replacements before I go for a set of new OEMs for roughly $852.33 a set.

The original set on my 1999 model LX with 235,000 miles has a blown inner boot. I can see the inner workings are dry. Surprisingly no noises yet. If I'm going to the trouble of replacing the axles, I want to install something good.

On other cars, I found parts store CV axles blow boots somewhere between 3 to 5 years. Mechanically they hold up. Its just the boots that do not last like OEM.

About 3.5 years ago I built some "hybrid axles" for a car application that are a combination of new parts store CV axle with OEM boots and some waterproof grease from Omni Lubricants. So far those are holding up great. This is lowered vehicle that is driven at extremely high speeds. It seems to have been a good idea for that application. Total cost for each hybrid axle was in the $140 range.

I see several reman axles being referenced on the site. At this point, I'm checking in to get some ideas before I make a purchase.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If you know this thread is another one, then you've seen all the other ones recommending OEM. They took your truck to 235k.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

You’re opening a can of worms here, but the basics: 1) For 100 series, aftermarket CV axles are hit or miss, depending on brand, and boots tend to tear quickly, but lifetime warranty means lifetime free replacements (not something I want to do regularly, but to each their own); 2) reman units (CVJ, etc) are not worth their $200-250 tag, because they’re just used axles (may or may NOT be OEM) with worn outboard shaft splines but a $55 boot kit and therefore not up to “reman” status in my opinion; 3) OEM will last tens of thousands to a couple hundred thousand miles generally without issue, so comparatively large price tag is worth it if you plan to keep vehicle for another 100k miles or more.

Personally, I’d spend $200 on new OEM outboard joint, shaft, and inner and out boots to rebuild 200k mile OEM axles before I pissed away money on $200 “reman” units that only have $55 worth of new boots and grease. Hell, I’d probably buy auto zone junkers before the “reman” units.

 

[suprarx7nut]

OEM or bust. CV replacements are not fun jobs. Do it once and use the best parts you can afford.

 

[flintknapper]

You’re opening a can of worms here, but the basics: 1) For 100 series, aftermarket CV axles are hit or miss, depending on brand, and boots tend to tear quickly, but lifetime warranty means lifetime free replacements (not something I want to do regularly, but to each their own); 2) reman units (CVJ, etc) are not worth their $200-250 tag, because they’re just used axles (may or may NOT be OEM) with worn outboard shaft splines

^^^

Pretty much sums it up for me. That will be the trouble with anyone's 'reman' CV Axles. To some degree or another the splines are going to be worn. Couple that with worn drive flanges (if not replaced with new) and what do you have?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Listen to the collective wisdom here. Get an OEM CV if you can afford it. Then pay very close attention to the boot clips. Sometimes they start leaking on new CV axles after a few months. If that happens to you than just replace the clips with some good quality aftermarket ones.

If you must get aftermarket ones then Cardone HD ones are generally considered the best alternative. Rockauto and Napa both carry them. Just beware that getting the hub flange fit on the Cardone axles is a bit hard.

Finally, replace the diff side axle seals since they typically get damaged.

 

[OwnerCS]

Listen to the collective wisdom here. Get an OEM CV if you can afford it. Then pay very close attention to the boot clips. Sometimes they start leaking on new CV axles after a few months. If that happens to you than just replace the clips with some good quality aftermarket ones.

If you must get aftermarket ones then Cardone HD ones are generally considered the best alternative. Rockauto and Napa both carry them. Just beware that getting the hub flange fit on the Cardone axles is a bit hard.

Finally, replace the diff side axle seals since they typically get damaged.

Thanks for the advice. I think I will get the OEM. I've seen boot clips leaking on Tacoma CV axles. I have used a boot clamp tool on other new CV axles to correct weak factory clamps. Should I just replace the factory clamps right off if there are known issues?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Should I just replace the factory clamps right off if there are known issues?

If you have a lift, would be a good idea. If stock, then should be ok for thousands of miles.

 

[OwnerCS]

If you have a lift, would be a good idea. If stock, then should be ok for thousands of miles.

Thank you. I will be doing some off road driving running AHC in the high (2.8 inch) position. So I guess I will be stretching them more than normal.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

If you have a lift, would be a good idea. If stock, then should be ok for thousands of miles.

They don't always leak and they dont feel loose when you try to move them by hand and also, they are crimped by a hydraulic press so I am not quite sure a hand tool could improve them.
In another thread someone has posted an alternative clamp from McMaster Carr. I would buy 4 large and 4 small ones and keep them handy if the need arises in the future

 

[OwnerCS]

I know I need new transmission seals. I seem to have trouble finding CV axle seal part numbers. Are there any other parts that I should include in the order?

 

[gregnash]

So if you have OEM axles already that are just old with torn boots but not leaking too badly then why not just rehab the axles and put new OEM boots on it for $50+? Or are you just replacing because you are sure they have 200k+ on them?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

So if you have OEM axles already that are just old with torn boots but not leaking too badly then why not just rehab the axles and put new OEM boots on it for $50+? Or are you just replacing because you are sure they have 200k+ on them?

Likely worn splines on outboard shafts after +200k miles. Can buy new outboard shaft with new outer joint and new outer and inner boots for ~$200, but will need to swap inner joint over from old shaft. Most people would rather not go through the trouble tho.

 

[reznunt]

We sure love to talk about CV's around here!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Thanks for the advice. I think I will get the OEM. I've seen boot clips leaking on Tacoma CV axles. I have used a boot clamp tool on other new CV axles to correct weak factory clamps. Should I just replace the factory clamps right off if there are known issues?

No, don't remove them just because a few folks have said something. For every bad clamp there may be 200 good ones. The forums have a way of grossly over-magnifying any quality issues of any product. Just keep an eye on them. If they begin to leak, get the soft-edged worm gear clamps from McMaster (commonly referred to on here as the "Pfran clamps". Those are easily installed in situ.

So if you have OEM axles already that are just old with torn boots but not leaking too badly then why not just rehab the axles and put new OEM boots on it for $50+? Or are you just replacing because you are sure they have 200k+ on them?

For me (and many others, I assume) the reboot job is laborious enough that it's just not worth it. And then you still have old splines and mechanical joints. Depends what $$ amount you assign to your time, I guess. If you've got time to kill, reboot may be great. If you're busy, that's an afternoon/most of a day you can buy yourself for a few hundred bucks.

 

[100serieslover]

Likely worn splines on outboard shafts after +200k miles. Can buy new outboard shaft with new outer joint and new outer and inner boots for ~$200, but will need to swap inner joint over from old shaft. Most people would rather not go through the trouble tho.

Any idea what the part number is for the outboard shaft/joint? Thanks in advance.

 

[bamabrock]

I know I need new transmission seals. I seem to have trouble finding CV axle seal part numbers. Are there any other parts that I should include in the order?

every part number you need was in the thread that was bumped yesterday and on page one

CV-Axle Part #

Hey guys just bought a new to me 100series (99') pretty sure the cv axles are clunking/slipping and need to be replaced. Anyone know the approximate price and or part # ?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Any idea what the part number is for the outboard shaft/joint? Thanks in advance.

 

[OwnerCS]

Ok. Ordered a set from Toyota Parts in Puyallup, WA during the shipping sale. This was the best price with shipping I could find today.

 

[abuck99]

Personally I would replace the entire axle not half of it; in fact its more labor to do 1/2 and then reboot the inner. If the outer is worn, the inner is worn: (cage, ramps, bearings). $360+/- each side for complete axles.

On a new axle I wouldn't change the clamps until you have to- you have at least 12mo warranty on the part, so wait it out. The inner boot small clamp is the one that generally weeps- this clamp is different than the outer boot- and there's really no way to tighten it, since it's a lever type locking clamp. These have been loosening up for some (including me) around the 12-15 month range- so keep an eye on it. My preferred replacement clamp is this Napa boot clamp-
Small CVB6865833
Large CVB6865833

And this tool to achieve the correct crimp: FSM calls for a gap of .8mm to set the correct tension of the clamp.

Amazon product ASIN B005J3L4BW