Steering Rack Movement and Shimmy (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 20, 2023
Threads
4
Messages
25
Location
USA
Hi all, been researching heavily a few annoyance with my new-to-me 2002 LC.

One of the most immediate concerns now that I have timing belt all done is the steering - it's honestly awful and feels unsafe. I feel like I'm in a 50s American movie with it's lack of response and shimmy when you hit bumps at higher speed. The other day, my GF was driving in damp conditions and around a long sweeping corner VSC came on and she said it felt like it was pulling hard in the wrong direction.

I've done the basics like tire pressure, check wheel bearings, etc and nothing is out of the ordinary there. My guess now is steering rack bushings.
I recorded a quick video because it looks like it moves way too much, but in my research I saw that some movement in the rack is normal. But surely not this much, right?


Also, the steering feels SO heavy at low speeds compared to my LX470. Maybe that's to do with the bad bushings?
Probably needs a full PS fluid flush as well.

Now I guess what I'll do is replace the rack bushings with the whiteline poly kit, as much as I dislike poly vs rubber.
Does that seem like the solution to you guys?

TIA!
 
Watching and learning. My rack moves similarly, though a bit less than yours.
 
My steering rack bushings were non- existent and when I checked the wheel for play at the 3 and 9 o’clock position it was very obvious.
 
Watching and learning. My rack moves similarly, though a bit less than yours.
Roger that! I ordered the Whiteline W13210 kit off Amazon and will install it as soon as I get it. The car handles horribly so I hope this fixes it.

Will report back once it's done
 
Also check your inner and outer tie rods for play.
 
If you do not have leaks, groans, or any major issues you could swap to poly bushings and check the inner and outer tie rods.

When I purchased my current 2006, the rack bushings were so bad the rack would lift up and get stuck on the oil filter housing. This would lock up the steering in parking lots. It was also extremely darty, and you never knew what direction it would go in on the highway.

I swapped the bushings to SuperPro's and all is good now.
 
So I jacked it up just now and have lots of left/right wiggle on both front wheels. Solid up and down.

However, I pulled the small side of the tie rod boot off, slid it back and it made a mini explosion type noise and shot out grease. Seems like my rack is leaking. As I really inspect closely that must be why when I purchased this truck a few weeks ago it was low on PS fluid.

So, I think I’m gonna go new OEM rack and outer tie rods. I’ll return the white line poly bushings I bought. Painful expense but critical for safety and comfort so whatcha gonna do

IMG_1507.jpeg
 
@2001LC has stated in a few threads that he has had success with flushing, and/or certain types of ATF being able to slow or stop a leak.

I would probably error on the side of you need a new steering rack. I would have the installer use the poly bushings on the new rack!
 
I’m seeing there’s a steering rack rebuild kit available from Toyota. Anyone ever done that with success vs buying a whole new rack? Might be way more involved and stupid which is why I’m asking
 
I looked at rebuilding, and it’s really not worth the effort. Risk/reward just isn’t there IMO. Given the number of folks on this forum that are willing to rebuild almost anything, I couldn’t find a single one that rebuilt the rack.
 
@2001LC has stated in a few threads that he has had success with flushing, and/or certain types of ATF being able to slow or stop a leak.

I would probably error on the side of you need a new steering rack. I would have the installer use the poly bushings on the new rack!
Flushing with Mobil 1 ATF, cleans the system. Adding AT-205 can help with input shaft seal leak. But does little to nothing, for output seal leaks.


I’m seeing there’s a steering rack rebuild kit available from Toyota. Anyone ever done that with success vs buying a whole new rack? Might be way more involved and stupid which is why I’m asking

To just rebuild one, would not make financial sense. I'm actually in the process of gather the SST tools. Which are needed to rebuild R&P. The list is extensive & expensive.
 
Last edited:
That makes sense. New OEM rack is gonna be what I do then.

What are the other “while im in there” type items? Lower ball joints and bushings? My truck just crossed 200k miles and is basically bone stock
 
That makes sense. New OEM rack is gonna be what I do then.

What are the other “while im in there” type items? Lower ball joints and bushings? My truck just crossed 200k miles and is basically bone stock
I'll be doing the entire front suspension "while I'm in there," as part of a planned refresh. New UCAs/LCAs with new frame "Number 2" bushing, shock bushings ... every consumable from tie-rods out. Obviously this isn't necessary or economical, but if it's part of one's long-term plan for the vehicle then it seems like a good time to do it.

I recently replaced most of my coolant hoses but there were a few that I couldn't get to. One of them is the long hose that attaches to the oil filter housing, p/n 15777-50030. With the rack out of the way it should be easily accessible; I'll replace it as part of the job.

I also plan on replacing the front diff mount bushing at some point. Access may be aided by removing the rack.
 
I kinda feel like that's the way to do it too. If we're gonna have to perform open heart surgery to this degree, might as well do it all.

I'll probably end up going Dobinsons lift kit, but I want to refresh everything else around it
 
The new OEM rack 44250-60050 comes with new inner tie rods, boots, and bushings - but does it come with the D bushing too? And should I really replace the hardware too?
 
Does not come w D bushing. I don't think I replaced hardware and just used loctite when I put it back together. Definitely lift the engine up on the drivers side to make it easier and make sure to loosen fan shroud so you don't break tabs on it like I did. Some finicky parts but the write ups are so good unless your truck is rust ridden you can totally do it.
 
Sweet, thanks for letting me know. No rust so shouldn't be too bad. Although I just last week had the radiator and shroud out for the timing belt job. I wish I had paid more attention and did it all at once! Oh well, live and learn.

Curious how many of you did new OEM rack and swapped to whiteline / poly bushings at the same time? On my LX470 with 220k miles, lift, and big tires, I never felt like the steering was bad or really questioned it at all but on this current LC its woeful. So I guess I'm just wondering if the new rack and new oem inner/outer tie rods will make it feel really good again without poly. I also understand poly can wear out other component prematurely.
 
I’m seeing there’s a steering rack rebuild kit available from Toyota. Anyone ever done that with success vs buying a whole new rack? Might be way more involved and stupid which is why I’m asking
I was in the same boat as you, I knew I saved this video for some reason. My truck never has driven the way I'd like but you need to remember its an old heavy truck with a lot of stuff at play affecting ride quality.
>>Google video link

This is a brand new OEM rack with Toyota installed parts. You need to get the D bushing ordered as well.

We eventually concluded this is indeed normal but I don't like it one bit..... It's a trade off I suppose. Add poly bushings for a tighter feel but less give.

Fun side note, the first OEM rack we installed failed like almost exactly 12 months later. Boot ripped and had fluid inside. Toyota was able to warranty parts and labor. I don't know if its necessary but on my rig they loosened / moved the AC and it involved evac of the system and refilling.
 
I was in the same boat as you, I knew I saved this video for some reason. My truck never has driven the way I'd like but you need to remember its an old heavy truck with a lot of stuff at play affecting ride quality.
>>Google video link

This is a brand new OEM rack with Toyota installed parts. You need to get the D bushing ordered as well.

We eventually concluded this is indeed normal but I don't like it one bit..... It's a trade off I suppose. Add poly bushings for a tighter feel but less give.

Fun side note, the first OEM rack we installed failed like almost exactly 12 months later. Boot ripped and had fluid inside. Toyota was able to warranty parts and labor. I don't know if its necessary but on my rig they loosened / moved the AC and it involved evac of the system and refilling.
Thanks for sharing that. I actually came across your thread and read the whole saga. Super glad you got them to warranty it.

Once I saw your posts about the reman rack working, I went and watched a Car Care Nut video on steering racks and although he was doing it on a Camry, he specifically says he does not like even Toyota Reman racks for the same reasons you describe.

I never bothered to look at how much movement I had in my 2000 LX since it felt fine even after my 2.5" lift, but this 2002 LC with less miles is practically unsafe. I guess the PO just never bothered changing PS fluid and it killed the rack? I dunno.

Also, is it worth changing the PS reservoir or just clean it and reuse? Amayama has the reservoir for $100 shipped.
 
Thanks for sharing that. I actually came across your thread and read the whole saga. Super glad you got them to warranty it.

Once I saw your posts about the reman rack working, I went and watched a Car Care Nut video on steering racks and although he was doing it on a Camry, he specifically says he does not like even Toyota Reman racks for the same reasons you describe.

I never bothered to look at how much movement I had in my 2000 LX since it felt fine even after my 2.5" lift, but this 2002 LC with less miles is practically unsafe. I guess the PO just never bothered changing PS fluid and it killed the rack? I dunno.

Also, is it worth changing the PS reservoir or just clean it and reuse? Amayama has the reservoir for $100 shipped.
Ah yeah that's right, it was a remanned rack at first. I can't remember if I ever got a new one installed or not, I don't think so..... but the second go around is holding up much better.

Can you source a new OEM unit or are they all remanufactured?

I know the feeling. My steering wheel has always had a little bit of slop and before I got alignment and everything dialed in it would pull pretty hard right. Like if you stop paying attention you'd be in the ditch.


>> Some good threads on how to clean it, all depends on your piggy bank. I think you can even swap the screen? This is one vehicle I'm pretty obsessed with and I throw new parts at it whenever I have the chance but depends on your shop space/time/budget.
Steering Flush & Cleaning - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/steering-flush-cleaning.917879/
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom