Cummins swap time! (1 Viewer)

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Hydroboost showed up, I have it mostly installed. Realized I ordered regular AN fittings instead of PFTE ones - so I have to re-do some of my lines. No big deal. For the life of me I can not find the adapter fitting to go from the Wilwood master to the Toyota brake lines. I remember seeing it somewhere on here, but I can't find it. Does anyone know where / what they are? I'd rather not re-make the brake line ends if I can get away with it.

I'm debating cutting the notch out of my adapter plate so I can mount the hydroboost unit right side up, as I don't have the clearance issues a LHD cruiser has. It's still a rough draft.


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After I did that, I went to crank it over just to make sure my 6.7 starter has enough clearance internally, and I appear to have killed my two batteries letting them sit. Even after charging each over night they just don't seem to have the amps to crank it over fully, even in parallel. I manually cranked it over to find a spot away from compression and it just barely moved. I'll jump it with the Pajero or somethin'. So close to running.
 
She runs! And honestly, better than I remember. Ran battery cables, and all that crap. As of today the key starts and stops it. I just ran the fuel solenoid with the starter solenoid, and the latching circuit off of the fuel heater which my rig never utilized. So far I think all my factory gauges work except the tach, which is expected. I'll upload my videos to YouTube.

Currently looking for someone to fab me up some intercooler piping.

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Here's one of the first startups, it still had a little bit of air in the system, which is what caused the weird little surge after giving it some throttle. I'm quite miserable at filming things but I want to take some videos for everyone!



And here's a little blow-by test! Quite pleased.



Coolant has been added and purged of air, and only two small leaks showed up. One from a hose clamp I didn't tighten all the way, and one in the mess of 90° fittings for the stupid heater cores I made. Really need to make a single fitting for that. Maybe I can modify the original one to fit without hitting the valve cover or move the heater valve over a little.
 
Was browsing craigslist for driveshafts to chop up, and stumbled across a bumper instead? So naturally, I bought it. I think it's a TJM bumper. Was an unexpected purchase, and I wasnt really ready to mount it up since I hadn't gotten around to making my intercooler brackets. So I got to work and just made a simple setup with some flat steel that'll keep it and my hood latch steady. Friend came over and snagged my 4" shocks that don't work, so then I bought some 6" shocks to finally get that finished. Next step - Driveshafts! measurements have been taken and an order will be placed tomorrow!

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I got some stuff delivered the other day, super excited. got the Radius arms from Dave (so fast! I thought they were a pre-order!), and some tom woods driveshafts.

Installed the rear driveshaft right away, so technically it can move under it's own power now! I decided to get double cardan in the rear as well as the front, because my lift ended up being taller than originally expected. I'd rather have it DC and not need it, than to get it without and then run into problems.


Began loosening the factory arms, and let me tell you, they are TIGHT. I got the bolt on the body side of each loose, but all 4 axle side bolts are being Rude. I used my jack to start loosening them, and they still don't want to come free. The plan is to get them all loose, remove the wheels, drop the axle a bit. Do my brake lines, arms, then install front driveshaft. If all goes well I might get it sent out to a shop to have the alignment done?!



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One arm is done - the other is being a pain. I learned on the arm bolts you loosen bolt, not nut. well That certainly made it easier! The front bolt on each arm was rusted to the sleeve of the aftermarket bushing so removal of those was difficult. I spent a good 3 hours getting the passenger side one out, but the drivers side one is still stuck. With the differential so close to it I am having a hard time getting a good hit with my hammer. going to try an air hammer next or just cut it out. Will take a bunch of photos of it soon! I was too busy hitting everything with hammers to photograph much of the process.
 
Really nice build so far, I'm sure the RHD makes things interesting.

Just curious what intercooler did you go with, I couldn't find any info on it in your build.
 
Really nice build so far, I'm sure the RHD makes things interesting.

Just curious what intercooler did you go with, I couldn't find any info on it in your build.


Thanks! It's just a universal 3" intercooler I found that fit. Nothing special on that since there's not really a kit for it. Largest size I could find with a 3" in and out.
 
Just for the heads up, IDK if you are planning for power mods in the future, there are a lot of toys and easy ways to generate tons of power from the motor.
Be careful with the power and torque, I destroyed my rear differential with 37s tires and tons of torque from my cummins motor.
I though I would destroy the shafts first, but the entire pinion teeths and some of the crown just teared apart, it was a party of broken things including the 2 bearings that holded my ARB locker.
 
In a few weeks it's off to a shop to get intercooler piping and an exhaust made up, I'm getting excited.

brakes are finished, I got annoyed at my heater core plumbing and temporarily bypasses the on/off valve, and fit my new shocks. Both driveshafts are in and I have moved the rig back and forth about 3 feet under its own power!

Still struggling with that front radius arm bolt being rusted to the sleeve in the bushing, an air hammer didn't do the trick. next step = red hot with a torch! it'll come out.

Didn't take photos, but I will in the next few days. I'm pleased with everything.

Just for the heads up, IDK if you are planning for power mods in the future, there are a lot of toys and easy ways to generate tons of power from the motor.
Be careful with the power and torque, I destroyed my rear differential with 37s tires and tons of torque from my cummins motor.

I'm honestly expecting to detonate the rear end at some point - according to the shop that built everything it should be somewhere around the 400-450 HP mark. I'll of course slap it on a dyno as soon as it's road worthy and we'll find out.
 
Intercooler piping and exhaust are done, now it's getting an alignment! When I get the truck back I'll take more photos of the piping, of course. The shop has been saying the rig really grew on them as they started working on it. Didn't think much of it until they had to move it, lol.

It's 3" stainless, should sound pretty awesome. Just straight pipe for now.


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Cruiser is home, and sounds better than ever! You can hear boost build (weird how having the turbo hooked up will do that eh) and the exhaust sounds a treat for not having any mufflers.

I'm happy with the intercooler piping. It's tucked up enough that my tires won't hit it and if I ever worry about damaging them I'll just make a small metal guard for them.

For now, I'm just going to run a pod filter sitting on my fender until I figure out what style of box to make. My throttle cable is in the mail and will hopefully be here by weeks end. After that, I'll wire my fans.

Last unexpected thing is my brakes. They are biting hard for some reason. I think one of my rears is dragging because I wasn't locking up my fronts in dirt with my hubs disengaged. If it's not one caliper, I suspect my hydroboost is for some reason not returning to free.

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Why is the intercooler piping ran that way? Should be tons of room to cut a hole in the core support to get it through on the inside, especially considering there's no steering box or anything on that side.

Seems weird to me.
 
Why is the intercooler piping ran that way? Should be tons of room to cut a hole in the core support to get it through on the inside, especially considering there's no steering box or anything on that side.

Seems weird to me.


I thought about it, but I'm fairly confident it would not have fit. The P-pump, power steering pump, and battery on the passenger side kind of stole that room, and the steering box, radiator coolant lines, and alternator sucked up all the space on the drivers side. It's also possible my stupid large radiator is contributing to that as well.


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Maybe the photos don't convey the situation, but it looks like there's a ton of room. Mine is right through the core support below the battery, tons of room between all that junk on the engine.

Either way, looks sick.
 
Maybe the photos don't convey the situation, but it looks like there's a ton of room. Mine is right through the core support below the battery, tons of room between all that junk on the engine.

Either way, looks sick.


Any chance you'd snag some photos? I'm not opposed to changing it down the line if it ever came down to it.



Today I wired the e-fans. Each one has its own relay and fuse in a box I installed, so if one dies I should still have another. Got room for 3 more relays so maybe my dog lights and compressor will go thru that too.

Pulled switched power off of the fuel heater relay, as I don't need it / my rig didn't have it installed. Manually tested each one and next I'll let it idle for like an hour and see if they turn on lol.

Just need to tidy up the wiring by the relay box and it'll be done!

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I let the rig warm up until the fans came on today, took about 30 minutes of idling before it finally got up to temp. once it hit 185, the fans kicked on, and dropped temps down to about 145. I am very pleased. I'm curious to see what temps do when it's driving! I did notice that my temp gauge in the factory cluster wasn't working though. I swear it was before, so maybe my sensor took a s***. Oh well.


Cut up a 4" elbow I ordered to shove the filter in a temporary spot for now, until I can fab up or have a shop fab up an air box for me. Such a tight fit! i think I'll have just enough room to put a box there, while still retaining the position of the little power outlet. I could move it if needed, but i'm trying not to. I think i'll then go for a 3 or 4" stainless snorkel, because why the hell not.

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Then I worked on getting my gauges to stay in place and not flop around. There's only like 2 options for RHD cruiser pillar pods that i've found, and they're both kind of s***. I should have just made one myself, instead of ordering this garbage. I put a riv-nut in the A-pillar and slapped a second bolt in it, and then did the same for the grab handle. It looks kind of like ass, but at this point I don't particularly care. I can re-visit it after the rig is driving.

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I found the other day that if I run the truck for more than 20 or 30 minutes, I can't start it again with the key. A quick little diagnostic and I found out that it's because I used the fuel heater circuit to give the Cummins fuel solenoid the "close" signal. When it's hot I have to manually close it. Was hoping that one would work, guess not. Easy to fix though.


Also took it for a short drive around the block. Will have a YouTube video uploaded soon!
 
Went for a drive yesterday. Had a coolant leak, fixed. Alternator bolt was loose. Fixed.

Gear oil is leaking out of either the trans or transfer case, but the worst part is I get a terrible grinding upon deceleration. I think my transmission is shot. Going to take it out and rebuild it :(

All in all it's a pretty good first drive.

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Well - I found some rather unfortunate info today when I pulled the transfer case / transmission. Transfer case is messed up. Im thinking my selector fork didnt get seated correctly or i lost one of the retaining rings on a gear, but we'll see when I pull it apart. Since I'm here, I'm at the minimum going to take the top off the transmission and look into it as well. somehow, there was oil on both sides of my adapter plate, so I can't be 100% certain if it's only the x-fer case.



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