Cummins swap time! (1 Viewer)

[mattimooseprime]

Welp, turns out a bearing inside the T-case decided it didnt want to be a bearing anymore. I must have damaged it putting the shaft back in, I don't really see that bearing just failing right off the bat like that. Unfortunately it damaged the inside of the case, and I'm not comfortable trying to re-use it. I'm hopefully picking up a new case within a day or two and I'll swap my overdrive gears and part time kit into it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Woof. That sucks.

 

[mattimooseprime]

New transfer case is installed, and it's drivable now! I get a vibration if I lock the front hubs, even with the double cardan front shaft. Bummer. Good thing I did the part time kit! I'll remove the 1" spacers I have from my springs and see how that goes. I think I'll prefer it to be a little lower anyhow. Then I need to figure my sway bars out. I hate how it feels without them.

Drove to DEQ today, doesn't seem to be leaking too much of anything other than the slight oil seepage from my turbo drain line, and maybe a tiny tiny bit from the tappet cover I think. Brake pedal needs a slight adjustment, clutch seems fine. My windshield is leaking pretty bad though so I guess i have to get it fixed AGAIN. so many smells it has to burn off, I smell coolant from the old leaks, power steering and brake fluid from me spilling it, and diesel from the time I forgot to tighten the clamp.

 

[mattimooseprime]

After a few days of driving, I'm impressed overall with how it has turned out. the power is ridiculous. It's almost fast? 3rd and 4th gear pulls are comical. I'm so glad I put 35's and the overdrive gears in, it feels nearly perfect. I wish the gears were just a little taller, though. Eventually I may swap the 4.11's out for 3.73's. I'll update with fuel mileage at my next fillup, but I expect reasonably high numbers for a land cruiser, lol.

Some things that need attention;

-brake pedal is just at the cusp of being adjusted too tight. I need to shave a few threads off the hydroboost rod or move the brake light switch to allow more upward travel.
- Definitely a tappet cover leak. the gasket has just decided to not work anymore. it was dry and leak free when i got it, and has been dry during all runs up until shortly after the first drive. Oh well.
- Same with the turbo oil drain. it's just not happy. I'll remake it and see what caused the failure. might have just not got the AN fitting set properly, who knows.
- My shifter I made makes so much noise. It's hollow square tube, and just amplifies the sound from the transmission. it's kind of comical but so annoying. I'm going to fill it with sand to dampen the noise, and add some weight to it for smoother feeling shifts.
- alignment is s***. it wanders all over the road at anything above 60mph, and it feels terrible. I think it's due to too much of an angle on the steering linkage. after removal of the 30mm spacers and some tie rod investigation, i'll begin working on the currie antirock stuff and send it back for another alignment. I think I can fab the rear one myself, but will definitely have a shop make the front setup.
- wire the tachometer. I ordered the dakota digital box so when that arrives I'll fix that.
- replace the toyota temp sensor. it doesn't work and i'm going to have a 100% functional dash if it kills me.
- boost control. peaking at 23-25 psi and its absolutely not enough.


More photos soon!

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Nice build.

What turbo are you running? And how much boost are you expecting to see? 25ish isn't too far from the most you want to get out of a single stock HX35.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Nice build.

What turbo are you running? And how much boost are you expecting to see? 25ish isn't too far from the most you want to get out of a single stock HX35.

Thank you! It's a HX35w. I know there's nothing wrong with it running 25~, but I smoke a little at WOT and want to increase the boost to clear it up a bit. I'm thinking the wastegate I put on it has a weaker spring than the one that was on it when I got the engine. Couldn't fit it though, so I had to get a little baby one. I know they lose efficiency at anything over 35 or so if I'm not mistaken, so I was just going to slowly increase it and see what happens. why lower fuel, when I can raise boost? EGT's are still super low so I'm thinking I have quite a bit of play room.

A friend in AUS is working with a shop here in Oregon near me (of all places) on a hybrid Hy35w / HE351cw for his 100 series with a 12 valve, and we're going to see if I can be the test pig for it since I'm local to him. Fitment will be rough for me as I'm not sure I can fit the 4" exhaust, but I want to try. I mostly just want to do dumb stuff with it because power is easy to achieve, lol.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Watch out running over 30psi with the HX35's comp stage in your set-up. You'll be at the surge line. Drop the throttle one time too many at high boost and there goes your turbine shaft. The 35's comp wheel will increasingly heat the charge air the closer you get to 30psi. Keep that in mind as you start balancing charge flow and EGTs.

 

[mattimooseprime]

So far the highest egt I've seen is 750, which is nice. I unfortunately / fortunately I have a small spacer between the turbo and the manifold so it's no longer divided. I'm not entirely sure of the effects that may have on it but I was a curious if that could affect it enough to amplify surge. I'm thinking when I yank the turbo out to grind some of the divider out of it but I doubt it will change anything, since that won't change the impeller design. I don't hear any surge currently, but that of course doesn't mean anything

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I can hit 30psi boost easily in 4th and 5th with hx35. That is only when I need to pass someone. I rarely push it past 15. On my last trip out to west Texas it was hitting 20 on the inclines on I10 so I turned down the fueling a bit on the way home. Easy to do with AFC.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Easy to do with AFC.

I'm really really pondering getting an AFC Live or the adjuster. Would be nice to be able to control it on the fly for different situations. I don't need max fuel or boost just coasting on the highway lol. I'm also not much of a roll coal kind of guy. just means wasted power to me. isn't 15psi a little low?

Don't mind me, just creepin' on my rig while at work

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I cruise at 7-12. My boost comes in higher in rpm range. I would like to find the sweet spot for fuel economy but it’s not my daily so I just leave it.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Set the max fueling and boost. Your on-the-fly adjustment is the pedal. The AFC should account for everything in between with a little haze.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Ordered a puller and tappet cover gasket, so here soon I'll tackle pulling the injector pump to fix that leak. I know it's not the most difficult thing in the work to do, but I'm just not looking forward to it. After all the work getting it in, I just want to drive it, lol. I might also do 4k gov springs and 60lb valve springs while I'm there. We'll see. Probably wait until my tach works since I'm fairly certain I have 3200k gov's.

Also ordered some aluminum tubing and fittings to plumb the turbo drain line so I'll get rid of the rubber hose. Hopefully that will solve all my leaks!

 

[Zjohnsonua]

When you go to reassemble the pump drive gear to the pump make sure that the pump shaft and gear bore are medically clean, with zero residue. That interface isn't tolerant of a shortcut.

 

[mattimooseprime]

When you go to reassemble the pump drive gear to the pump make sure that the pump shaft and gear bore are medically clean, with zero residue. That interface isn't tolerant of a shortcut.

yep! I plan on basically soaking them with brakleen lol. Hopefully previous removals were done correctly and I don't run into issues.

 

[PIP]

When you go to reassemble the pump drive gear to the pump make sure that the pump shaft and gear bore are medically clean, with zero residue. That interface isn't tolerant of a shortcut.

That bears repeating! That was a hard lesson to learn for me. Any oil in that connection and the gear will slip the first time you get into it hard.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I was pretty nervous when I replaced my pump too. Not bad at all. I was able to turn the engine over with one hand and push the flywheel pin in with the other. Would have been easier on a non lifted truck or with a second person. Good luck. Clean clean clean.

 

[mattimooseprime]

I was pretty nervous when I replaced my pump too. Not bad at all. I was able to turn the engine over with one hand and push the flywheel pin in with the other. Would have been easier on a non lifted truck or with a second person. Good luck. Clean clean clean.

it's definitely a "oh man I can screw this up real fast" project, but it's just measurements. Luckily I'm no stranger to dial indicators and stupid tolerances. I bought a barring tool so I don't have to try and turn it over via the crank pulley. I'm still in the honeymoon phase and don't want to take it back down so fast. but leaks are leaks and they cant be ignored.

Other things I ordered are a resonator and a muffler. I love how it sounds straight piped but it's just too loud, Especially since it comes out right in front of the rear tire on the drivers side. Maybe if it came out the back I'd be okay with straight pipe but the engine itself is already loud enough, I don't need to be killing what's left of my hearing. I imagine with what I bought it'll still sound good. Hopefully how the exhaust is routed wont be an issue for whatever sliders I end up going with in the future. I don't want to have exhaust work a third time lol. Honestly, I prefer the jet engine whistle noise it makes through the intake and would rather hear that than a loud exhaust.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Get it out the back and you'll be fine. My 6bt breathes through straight pipe to a dump under the PS qtr panel and has no issues. The "system" is shockingly quiet considering what it is.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Barring tool works great but I find the alternator nut is sometimes easier.