Cummins swap time!

[mattimooseprime]

I wouldn’t deign to make fun of anyone’s welds, because I suck. Lol. But I would say, just inspect them closely after a bit of time has gone by. In my experience, I’ve had trouble getting good penetration with those light welders. Probably my skill level, and I bet you’ll be fine. But just double check whenever you’re under there. Cheap insurance. I’ve been enjoying your write up! Good stuff.

I'll either be bringing it somewhere and having it welded up properly when I have everything finished and tacked together, or I'll bring it to work and use our MIG. I can weld decent enough with a good welder but that lil' wire feed I have is only good for tacking s*** together lol (with my skillset) ....that's what I get for spending like 75 bucks on it on amazon

 

[mattimooseprime]

Got the x-member welded all up and slapped a quick later of metallic paint on it today. Tomorrow if time allows, I'll mount it on the truck, and spray black spray paint on the x-member at the base of the transmission mount. Then I'll have an outline of where it sits to measure and drill holes for bolts. I'll also test front driveshaft clearance even though I already know it's too short. Just need to make sure it doesn't hit the mount.

Once that's done, I'll take a grinder to it and clean it up a bit, get a burr bit and correct the 8 bolt holes for the chassis since only 6 of them got drilled correctly, and then paint it black. Getting closer by the day!

 

[mattimooseprime]

Got it welded up and bolted to the chassis, and marked where the rubber mount rests. Before I drill holes and bolt it down for good, I'll check the driveshaft clearance but it looks good so far!

 

[Major Tom]

Made some progress over the past few days. Started working on the crossmember, which is turning out about as good as I imagined I could do with my limited tools. the 2x3 tubing is definitely overkill, I think if I do a second revision i'll use 1x2 instead. all that's left is to cut out the straight portion of the bar which I used to keep the sections with the bolt holes aligned, and then weld it all up. Doesn't have to be pretty yet, just needs to work. I have the crapiest little 110 wire feed welder, please don't make fun of my very crappy welds lol.

i got my clutch master mounted, finally! I accidentally broke the previous one, had to order a new one. Also had to order a special fitting to get the mcleod quick release line on. I sat in the drivers seat and pushed the pedal / shifted gears a few times and felt like an excited little kid because for some reason, that felt like a milestone.

I really doubt I'm going to use this exhaust manifold. there's just no clearance to the firewall from the exhaust flange on the turbo. I got a spacer and cut / angled it to clear the wastegate actuator and to give the exhaust flange more room but it's just too tight. The turbo might also be too low and wont drain properly. But man it looks super cool down there! I have an adapter that is designed to work with the factory dodge manifold for a RHD cruiser, but since I'm not at the point where I need to finish installing the turbo, I'm treating this as an exercise to get better at fabricating.

View attachment 2687697View attachment 2687698View attachment 2687699View attachment 2687700View attachment 2687702

I noticed you installed your clutch master cylinder. What master cylinder and slave did you go with?

 

[mattimooseprime]

I noticed you installed your clutch master cylinder. What master cylinder and slave did you go with?

I did, yes! That's a master and slave from a dodge. I just got a cheap one off amazon for a 96 dodge. I was going to use the toyota stuff but I wanted to see how feasible it was to make the dodge stuff work. the dodge stuff uses AN4 fittings so you can make them work for anything, apparently!

 

[mattimooseprime]

Today I put the toyota voltage regulator on the dodge alternator. It's neat!

Then I started working on the lspv and found out that mine is stuck fully open so I guess that's good? But I suppose I should just remove it.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Got the other two iron man trailing arms in today, so I installed those with the delta panhard bracket. I put my spacers in and realized my shocks are not long enough. Probably weren't long enough prior to the spacers either. Guess I'm upgrading to 6" shocks, bummer because these never saw any driving!

Got one of the bolts on the adjuster for the panhard bracket loose but for the life of me I can't break the other one loose.


Ran both of the fuel lines and removed the brake booster, also. Just little things!

 

[mattimooseprime]

Been super busy the past few weeks, havent really gotten much time to wrench! I did however......

Remake the transmission crossmember. I really underestimated how large the 3x2 tubing was. this one is just 2" plate i cut and then welded up to fit. I'll add some spacers to drop it about 5mm, and gussets to stop it from bowing, but for now, I think I'll stop obsessing about it and move onto the next part.

I also ordered some hose and began fitting the coolant lines to the heater cores. that's mostly done, waiting on my radiator inlet to arrive from jonesys so I can hook the return lines up to it.

Today I ordered some tubing, a beader, and a few misc elbows / unions to make the new coolant hard lines. Progress is back in action!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You intend to remake that at some point? That crosmember isn't going to cut it long term.

 

[mattimooseprime]

You intend to remake that at some point? That crosmember isn't going to cut it long term.

Oh very much so. Eventually i'll have a guy at the shop I import with fab me up a nice one when I can drive the truck to the shop and have him take better measurements. I figure this will at least get me moving for the time being.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Yesterday I attempted to fit my turbo with the adapter I had, but in typical land cruiser fashion, ran into a problem. the "variable assist" power steering solenoid is hitting the turbo. Apparently, not a lot of models came with it. Of course mine did - even though after researching it mine absolutely should not have it being that my rig is a lower model (or so I thought?). It's not common in AUS so it was never a thought when I was getting the kit. I tried one spacer but it wasnt enough, so i'll try a little more and see if that gives me the clearance once the replacement manifold comes in. My stock one is crusty and the previous owner drilled a really crappy EGT probe hole in it. One thing after another, right?


I also ordered the hydroboost stuff today! hooray!

I did a majority of the heater core plumbing today, but I ran out of spring clips and 90° fittings to get the last little bit of the inlet side done. Ordered some more clips and tomorrow I'll go get the 90's. once those are on and the replacement inlet arrives, i'll do a quick purge of coolant again! Might as well try and keep as much in there at all times as possible. Other mic things today were running some fresh wire loom over some of the factory wiring harness - nothing special.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Buttoned up the heater lines a while ago which makes me happy. it looks a little tacky, but hey for now it'll work. its on the list of "once it runs I'll refine it a bit" but for now I'm happy.

My vac delete power steering pump arrived, so I made haste to install it in prep for the hydroboost. Got a pump with two returns on it so i don't have to Tee any lines anywhere, and I removed the factory PS high pressure line in preparation of the stainless braided PTFE stuff. I'm bummed I can't utilize the factory line but whatever. it fit on the stock dodge PS pump but it wont reach the port on this one.

I ordered one of those fancy Dual ram intakes for the cummins for a few reasons;
1: I wanted bling. (oooo shiny)
2: I'm not utilizing the factory heater grid and it was not removable on my intake.
3: I hated how the factory intake elbow looked.
4: if it actually does help keep cyl 5 and 6 cooler it's a win for me!

I Got defeated when the variable assist was in my way still after trying to space out the turbo flange adapter and really hit a wall for a few and didn't touch the rig for a few weeks. The other day I sold my old lift springs to someone and his brother happens to be a fabricator, and he's going to help me make an adapter so I put the 90 degree manifold back on. He's pretty confident he can make that one fit for me really easily, so with any luck it'll be officially mounted soon.

I then began plumbing the radiator lines! Figured I need to get them prepared so when the time comes I can just install the radiator. I originally was going to do a few bends in the pipe and make it look super fancy but there's 0 clearance issues with this top pipe setup so I'm not touching it. I ordered a 45 degree elbow so I can get the lower done, and then it's finished. Buying a pipe beader was such a good idea lol.

 

[Major Tom]

Greetings Matt,
I just mounted the orginal land cruiser transmission crossmember under the nv4500. I have a stock Dodge rubber isolator that goes between the trans mount and transmission. I’m thinking about welding up an adapter and mountIng it and dodge isolator between the toyota crossmember and nv4500 tailhousing. What was the determining factors that influenced you building a new crossmember?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

The stock NV4500 rubber trans mount will fit right into the stock crossmember. You will probably need to make an offset adapter to mate the trans to the trans mount rubber. In most swaps you miss the holes by about an inch.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Greetings Matt,
I just mounted the orginal land cruiser transmission crossmember under the nv4500. I have a stock Dodge rubber isolator that goes between the trans mount and transmission. I’m thinking about welding up an adapter and mountIng it and dodge isolator between the toyota crossmember and nv4500 tailhousing. What was the determining factors that influenced you building a new crossmember?

The stock NV4500 rubber trans mount will fit right into the stock crossmember. You will probably need to make an offset adapter to mate the trans to the trans mount rubber. In most swaps you miss the holes by about an inch.

Is.....this the day when I learn that my crossmember is vastly different than a stateside one? The holes were about 100mm off.

What does a crossmember from a gas cruiser here look like?

 

[Major Tom]

Thank you sir. Your help and build thread has been so helpful. My stock dodge isolator did indeed fit the Toyota crossmember. It seemed like a super simple transition to the tailhousing.

The stock NV4500 rubber trans mount will fit right into the stock crossmember. You will probably need to make an offset adapter to mate the trans to the trans mount rubber. In most swaps you miss the holes by about an inch.
View attachment 2777592

 

[mattimooseprime]

here's what mine looks like. I did think about making a small adapter plate to just use the stock one. total distance from the holes is about 100mm / 4inches or so. With radiator fitment and fan placement there's no way I could slide it forward. I wonder why mine is so much farther back?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Mines more forward than yours. There is no way I can run a mechanical fan. Only slim electric ones for me.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Mines more forward than yours. There is no way I can run a mechanical fan. Only slim electric ones for me.

I thought about slotting the mount holes and moving the whole engine forward but with the big radiator I got and the SPAL fans I have like...no extra room. she's a tight fit! I don't know how people can fit them with the mechanical fan, it doesn't seem possible.

 

[mattimooseprime]

Started my braided brake lines, and removed the stuck LSPV. For some reason the new man-a-fre lines don't go thru the holders on the axles, so I have to drill them out. Oof. Rear is done, am dreading the front. Otherwise those lines are SO NICE. I've never had lines that were so clearly fit length wise for the vehicle.

I also started painting the valve covers for fun, and got my oil filler cover so I can block off the factory dodge one. Annoyingly the valve cover bolts I bought are wrong. Dodge is weird.

I made a new oil feed and oil drain line for the turbo, and the spacer and downpipe are off getting finish welded.

Finally, I started extending the harness for the transfer case. It's just a few inches short now after the swap. It's possible I could have routed it different and made it work but I felt like it's too short and didn't want to risk it tearing. Just picked up some 10wire and got to work. Just need to do the other half and wrap it up.