Cummins swap time! (2 Viewers)

Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
196
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Portland, Oregon
Finished the freewheel kit and put my spacers on.
Funny thing, that cap is real hard to get off unless you get the cone washers out first. I totally forgot they were cones and spent a good 30 minutes trying to split what I assumed was the strongest silicone in the world. Once I remembered the cones they came off by hand. Lol.

I am honestly amazed with how simple this set-up is. And they look nice too!



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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
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Costa Rica
Cool Cool, mine has a OEM Toyota Clutch booster as well! In case you will use the OEM dodge Clutch slave Cylinder to the Toyota Clutch Master Cylinder check this one out:

NV-4500 Slave Fitting Modification - https://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/nv4500slavefittingmodification

Gearing is a b!tch when doing these swaps.
Take advantage now and do the 4000RPM mod to the engine, when I did mine the car improved a lot with all the gearing.
It is a pain in the ass to get the 3.70 gears, plus you will increase the chance of breaking stuff of the axle. I would consider changing gears on the transfercase instead.
 
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
196
Location
Portland, Oregon
Cool Cool, mine has a OEM Toyota Clutch booster as well! In case you will use the OEM dodge Clutch slave Cylinder to the Toyota Clutch Master Cylinder check this one out:

NV-4500 Slave Fitting Modification - https://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/nv4500slavefittingmodification

Gearing is a b!tch when doing these swaps.
Take advantage now and do the 4000RPM mod to the engine, when I did mine the car improved a lot with all the gearing.
It is a pain in the ass to get the 3.70 gears, plus you will increase the chance of breaking stuff of the axle. I would consider changing gears on the transfercase instead.


I was debating using the factory Toyota stuff - but I wasnt entirely sure if it would fit with the turbo being on that side and i wasnt sure if the toyota MC would be enough to move the dodge SC. thanks for that link! I might go that route. I have the whole dodge setup just in case, but I'd really like to try and keep the toyota stuff if possible.
 

Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
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I have a 60 series MC on my 80 pushing the NV4500 slave. Nothing wierd that I have noticed. Just need the thread adapter.
I would also suggest doing the TC gears unless you want to start in 2nd. Not terrible as I did for more than a year before adding transfer gears. Now that I ditched the splitcase I am back using stock gears for awhile.
 
Joined
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Messages
196
Location
Portland, Oregon
I have a 60 series MC on my 80 pushing the NV4500 slave. Nothing wierd that I have noticed. Just need the thread adapter.
I would also suggest doing the TC gears unless you want to start in 2nd. Not terrible as I did for more than a year before adding transfer gears. Now that I ditched the splitcase I am back using stock gears for awhile.

That's good to know! I'll definitely look into that adapter. that whole area of the swap was one I wasnt looking forward to, and knowing I can make the Toyota stuff work with it is a relief.

I did the 10% OD gears in the transfer case, thankfully. I couldn't imagine how low geared it would be without those and the 35's. i want to drive my truck at a reasonable speed! lol.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Costa Rica
I am running the 6bt with OEM H151F gearbox, 37s and 4.11 axles, and I still need more lower gears. I will do the transfer case gears soon. Where did you get it from?
If you are going to run electric fans, let me know and I'll look into my Amazon orders and send you the 2 SPAL low profile fans I bought.

The OEM radiator is more than enough for these engines, I am running around 240HP (because that is how much my clutch allows before start slipping), and the fans turn on rarely on the street and often when climbing at low speeds. What I am doing right now is adapting the A/C, if I finish first adapting it I'll post some pics for you.
 
Joined
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Messages
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I am running the 6bt with OEM H151F gearbox, 37s and 4.11 axles, and I still need more lower gears. I will do the transfer case gears soon. Where did you get it from?
If you are going to run electric fans, let me know and I'll look into my Amazon orders and send you the 2 SPAL low profile fans I bought.

The OEM radiator is more than enough for these engines, I am running around 240HP (because that is how much my clutch allows before start slipping), and the fans turn on rarely on the street and often when climbing at low speeds. What I am doing right now is adapting the A/C, if I finish first adapting it I'll post some pics for you.

I got the transfer case gears here. If the 35's and the gears aren't quite enough I'll either re-do my axles or go to 40's. lol.



Yes please! I think I know which fans I was going to go with, but seeing some actual results from other cruisers would be cool. I should have kept my toyota A/C pump. The dodge ones were cheap but I'm going to have go have some customs lines made up which is more of a nuisance than anything else. i'd like to see what you come up with!
 
Joined
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Messages
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Spal 30101500 11" Straight Blade Low Profile Fan
Spal 30102049 16" Curved Blade Performance Fan

I used these 2 as pullers, work extremely good. Then you wanna thermo switch:

American Volt Electric Radiator Fan Ground Thermo Switch 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" Inch NPT Temp Sensor Thread-in Brass Probe (1/2" NPT, 190'F On - 175'F Of

My thermostat is rated 180F, so I choose a 190F Thermo switch on the fans. IDK if you are using a lower or higher thermostat, check it first and then choose a 10-20 Fahrenheit deegree more for the Thermo switch. Water/Coolant above 230F would damage.

Regarding the AC... Believe me... you don't want to use the OEM Toyota AC pump, I tried and ended up failing... It is too hard to fit due to the lines and it uses a V belt, I tried to place it facing downside and managed to get it turning, but then an expert told me they dont work if the lines are not facing up so everything I did was for nothing. I already bought the OEM AC pump from dodge.
The best thing to do is use the OEM AC pump from Dodge and just take the lines to a shop to adapt the Toyota Lines into the Dodge Lines.
 
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
196
Location
Portland, Oregon
Spal 30101500 11" Straight Blade Low Profile Fan
Spal 30102049 16" Curved Blade Performance Fan

I used these 2 as pullers, work extremely good. Then you wanna thermo switch:

American Volt Electric Radiator Fan Ground Thermo Switch 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" Inch NPT Temp Sensor Thread-in Brass Probe (1/2" NPT, 190'F On - 175'F Of

My thermostat is rated 180F, so I choose a 190F Thermo switch on the fans. IDK if you are using a lower or higher thermostat, check it first and then choose a 10-20 Fahrenheit deegree more for the Thermo switch. Water/Coolant above 230F would damage.

Regarding the AC... Believe me... you don't want to use the OEM Toyota AC pump, I tried and ended up failing... It is too hard to fit due to the lines and it uses a V belt, I tried to place it facing downside and managed to get it turning, but then an expert told me they dont work if the lines are not facing up so everything I did was for nothing. I already bought the OEM AC pump from dodge.
The best thing to do is use the OEM AC pump from Dodge and just take the lines to a shop to adapt the Toyota Lines into the Dodge Lines.


Interesting fan setup! I was debating going with two 13". Did you make a shroud or did you just put the fans directly on the radiator? I have a handy little dual fan controller I was planning on using, and was hoping that with the big 4 row aluminum radiator I got, I could have one turn on at 190 degrees, and the other turn on with the A/C or at 200. Of course I can and probably will have to change all of that once its installed since I have no idea how it will actually run yet.

Good thing I got the dodge A/C pump already! I probably would have gone down the same path you did. Luckily there's a shop or two relatively close that can fab up some lines and get the system filled.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Portland, Oregon
Good news! My kit arrived, so I wasted no time and did some work. Here you can see the new input shaft and how it attaches to a nv4500. Overdrive gears are in, freewheel kit is in, and the case is painted with some effort. It didn't come back as clean as I was hoping because the shop that cleaned it just washed it, they didn't give it the big hot tank bath. Not the end of the world. I was only painting it for fun, not like anyone will see it. But now it's mostly re-assembled! I forgot my gasket goo so I only put it together enough to bring it back home.

These adapters are BEEFY. It really puts it in to perspective how different automotive rules are in different places. This passes all of the strange AUS laws to be road legal which apparently come with a lot of stuff you have to do. I had to hone out the hole on the nv4500 tailshaft housing as the shaft is just too big for it. I was going to put a seal on it but with the adapter sandwiching it, it's not as big a concern. More photos and info soon!
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Joined
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amazon prime was slow, so I went to Toyota and just bought some more FIPG. lol. Put everything together, sealed it up, and did a mock up of how it "should" sit. Realized i forgot about the X-fer case shifter completely, so I'm going to fab up some sort of wide blank bracket for that so once it's in the rig, I can set the shifter where it needs to be and then just mark it, drill it, tap it, bolt it. The fitment of this kit is insane. everything falls into place just like it should have always been that way. I'm still not sure how I feel about that red. it's so bright. at least I'll be able to see leaks?

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Joined
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The other thing I did while I was waiting on my FIPG and various other things to happen, was my lift kit! First thing = HOLY CRAP ITS SO TALL. I have the 4" heavy springs. So I'm pretty sure the springs I removed were OME. it had an OME steering damper and has castor bushings. it seems taller than factory but I really have no clue. The old springs were blue?

I gained almost more than 4" of height. and that's with the cummins. I'm stink-bugging Just a tiny tiny little bit, but that's ok because the transmission still isn't in and I plan on getting DVS bump stops in the future., and an extended fuel tank because I want a ridiculous amount of fuel capacity. it'll level out eventually.

I did the lift with my hi-lift jack without removing any tires. Not my proudest moment but one corner at a time made it happen. I removed the shocks to do it and was able to get juuuust enough flex. Still need rear arms to re-position the axle, and front radius arms. Luckily I already have adjustable panhard rods and such. I'll probably make abracket for the LSPV or delete it. Haven't decided yet. The PO in japan did random things when he lifted it which I am very grateful for. No problems with brake line clearance or anything. when my big bore steering damper comes in, I'll tackle that and see if I have twisting issues like some people do. Hopefully the extra height makes it easier to get the transmission in!



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Joined
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Tomorrow is transmission / x-fer case day. Today I decided to get the bellhousing mounted, which turned out to be an all day project. I started by attempting to replace my rubber motor mounts because I intentionally bought and used a cheap ebay set when I was test fitting everything. Good thing, because I mangled them beyond the point of use.

Well I started by removing one side and was just going to pick, replace, set back down. As soon as the mount was clear the engine decided to remove itself from any reasonable position for this to be easy. And then I made it worse by trying the other side, it was completely removed from anything. after a whole lot of trouble I managed to get the nice toyota branded mounts with the metal shield installed with no damage. I then had to ratchet strap the engine to one side and pick up the front with the hoist to angle it just right to get the bellhousing on. BIG OOF.

Finally, it's all sitting mostly how it should, and when the NV is in ill be able to get it to sit absolutely proper. I'm so glad I did the lift yesterday. Being able to sit up straight in the transmission tunnel without worrying about hitting my bald ass head was a huge help.



Man, I really destroyed the firewall blanket. I refuse to pull the engine out to replace it. you cant make me.

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Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
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A bit of not so gentle messaging of the tunnel with a hammer will help with the bell housing. Doing this will help clearance the top corner bolt locations for easy removal of the bellhousing. Doesn’t take much.
 
Joined
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A bit of not so gentle messaging of the tunnel with a hammer will help with the bell housing. Doing this will help clearance the top corner bolt locations for easy removal of the bellhousing. Doesn’t take much.

I was heavily debating doing that. If the transmission gives me hell getting it in I might get smash happy with it. Currently my problem child is I forgot to make a bracket yesterday for the 4wd selector but I'm going to shove everything in and worry about it later lol. The motor mount and bellhousing really distracted me.
 
Joined
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trans and x-fer case are in! I think fitment is almost exactly where it should be. It wasnt terribly difficult to get in, but it is a little tight. While I work on fabbing up a crossmember, I'll just let it rest on the old factory one.

i did find out that I need to have both driveshafts remade. the rear is not about 3 inches too long and the front is about, well 3 inches too short, and that's just sheer space trying to force them in. the rear is fully compressed and the front was fully extended to the point of falling apart. so I guess its more like 6 inches each side? i'll take some measurements and get in touch with a shop or two. probably take this opportunity to have beefy ones made up vs a factory style replacement.

I may still need to do some hammer persuasion and fiddle with overall position slightly. I think I need to "turn" the engine clockwise if you're standing in front of the grille. this could also just be how it's sitting due to the crossemember.

i also think I might just cut out a larger hole where the shifter comes into the cabin just to make life easy for now. nothing a piece of sheet metal later can't fix. overall, I'm extremely pleased with how this turned out! next step will be wiring / fuel!

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I raised the body 2.5 inches with polyurethane bushings and harder bolts. That gave me enough clearence to avoid cutting or smashing. You need to keep in mind that the engine is very torky so it will move to the sides when you suddenly press or release the gas, take that in consideration in case the back corners of the engine may hit the firewall.

Here my AC setup so far...
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This is how my AC is getting accomodated on my setup. I bougth an OEM (From Dodge RAM) AC fitting for the back of the AC compressor. I believe you might need to use a fitting on your AC that goes straight to the back and then connect it to the Toyota fittings.
I will do some pipe and hose work this week and once I finish I will post the results... Hopefully I will get it done by the end of this week.
 
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
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I raised the body 2.5 inches with polyurethane bushings and harder bolts. That gave me enough clearence to avoid cutting or smashing. You need to keep in mind that the engine is very torky so it will move to the sides when you suddenly press or release the gas, take that in consideration in case the back corners of the engine may hit the firewall.

Here my AC setup so far...


This is how my AC is getting accomodated on my setup. I bougth an OEM (From Dodge RAM) AC fitting for the back of the AC compressor. I believe you might need to use a fitting on your AC that goes straight to the back and then connect it to the Toyota fittings.
I will do some pipe and hose work this week and once I finish I will post the results... Hopefully I will get it done by the end of this week.

I thought about a body lift but would like to try and do it without one at first. Once I have the transmission crossmember made up I should have the engine sitting exactly where it should so I can then address any points of contact or possible points. I might just do new OEM body mounts as mine are surely squished from being 30 years old.

I'm surprised you got the AC to fit down there! I didn't think it would be possible, even on a LHD model. There is absolutely no way it would do so on mine with the steering box being there. I figured when I have the rig running I'd go to my local A/C shop and have them make me new lines. I like fabricating and stuff, but a shop could do it up in about 1/10th the time I could and it'll be much better. lol.
 

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