Cummins swap time! (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter mattimooseprime
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- #142
I was rather pleased when it arrived in the mail and fit perfectly lol. I had doubts.
I started cleaning up the wire harness and re-wrapping the stuff I undid. In my glorious way of doing things i misplaced my diagram I made showcasing what plug was what. s***. I'll just go through it one step at a time, it should be mostly straight forward since I'm no longer using any 24v stuff. I remember what some of them are so I'll just work backwards from that and get out the handy dandy volt meter later when the batteries get reinstalled.
I then moved onto removal of the front and rear heater core hoses and such so I can flush them out and re-do the piping. The rear core is a little crusty! Colored the fittings because I will definitely forget which is which. Hopefully I don't run into issues pulling coolant from the rear of the block like that.
While I was there I kept staring at my power steering pump and was silently cursing myself for forgetting to put the high pressure line in when I was replacing my engine mounts. It's not possible to do it with everything mounted. There's barely clearance for the pump, no way to get the bolt in or out. But I may be able to get the entire vac/ps pump out as it sits, So.....I decided to fully commit to hydroboost and pulled out all my vacuum lines! I left the brake booster there until I get the hydro kit. So long vacuum can! So long excess hard lines!
after a small celebration I turned my attention to the gear shift. I was not looking forward to modifying it, but then I found out that it's just a shaft pressed onto the linkage! I can easily make a shifter now. Hell yes. Hopefully there will be updates on that soon!
I pull coolant from that rear spot. Factory that’s where the temp sensor is. I put mine up front under the thermostat. It obviously will be showing cooler temps than the back but you can see the needle dive when the thermostat opens, which I like. I also did the temp mod to the stock gauge so it shows more actual than stock. Some people don’t like it because it does move around as the temp fluctuates. But the key for me is seeing the engine start to overheat before its too late.
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- #144
Glad someone else is pulling coolant from that spot, it just made the most sense with the location of the toyota stuff. I ran my temp sensor right behind the fuel filter, found a spot there and figured since it was the same side as the 1hdt I could get away without extending the wire harness, hopefully. I'll have to look into the temp gauge mod, the way it functions stock is worthless.
You can pull the regulator out of the Toyota alt and insert it inside the Cummins alternator. A bit of cutting on the rear cover but not bad for a plug and play mod on wiring. It was discovered after my swap but a few others are running it that way. I’m running a external regulator.
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- #147
I did the internal regulator mod to the dodge alternator to make it a "1 wire" setup. So theoretically I could ignore the old toyota just run a single wire to one of my batteries and be done. Not sure yet as I haven't studied the toyota wiring yet.
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- #148
Dang! That would have been cool. Maybe I'll get my hands on another toyota alternator and do that instead...
Yeah it is. Basically Denso or Bosch just use the same regulator in the alternators but change the plug to adapt to certain auto makers.
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- #150
I had a productive and fun day today! The trans crossmember rubber came in so I wasted no time working on getting it mounted. Of course I run into a wall instantly. I didn't realize it mounted to the dodge bracket that I have...that's been cut. so I searched for a replacement - long since discontinued. So I went and got some 2" flat stock and just made my own which ended up being far better because it set my height almost exactly where I need it, it looks like. I also had to notch it a little bit because of a bolt on the adapter plate. Minor inconvenience. I loosely bolted it in and will leave it that way until I fab up the rest of the crossmember.
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- #151
Then I started working on my shifter. The dodge one hits the dash and faces towards the passenger seat. (you know, right hand drive problems) So while I was out I picked up some 3/4 square tube because it looked like it would fit over the base of the shifter, and it did! you can see in one of the photos in my last post I was partway thru bending it, stopped to work on the other bracket because paint dried. I picked up a inexpensive and uh....cheap table top welder for small projects, but I can't adjust wire speed and it was causing me grief while I was welding this up. I'm not the best welder in the world, but I'm typically a little better than this. Anyways, I just cut, bent, test fit, weld, repeat until it was done. I then took an old bolt from the dodge and squared the head, tapped it in the top, and welded er' up. afterwards i just goober'd some weld onto the base so it would stay put.
I really like how it turned out. It puts my hand in a really comfortable spot for shifting and it looks adequate enough for the rig. I'll take it to my work and use a real welder to clean those welds up, give it another sand and paint and then rock it.
I really like how it turned out. It puts my hand in a really comfortable spot for shifting and it looks adequate enough for the rig. I'll take it to my work and use a real welder to clean those welds up, give it another sand and paint and then rock it.
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- #152
The last thing I did today was the 4wd shifter bracket. I just took some plate I had and made a stand for it. Nothing too serious, because it's a land cruiser and they go everywhere in 4hi. is 4low even needed? lol. I did however, have to extend the shifter arm so it could get to all 3 selections and still clear the trans tunnel opening. I just welded a nut to the head of a bolt, locked it down on the end of the selector rod, and put the little arm back onto it to extend it. It bolts to the adapter plate / NV tail housing. that lil' 10mm bolt was just how I held the angle to the plate while I was fitting / welding it.
originally today I was going to finish my radiator shroud since my SPAL fans came in. I didn't even start that. Got sidetracked!
originally today I was going to finish my radiator shroud since my SPAL fans came in. I didn't even start that. Got sidetracked!
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- #153
Today I worked on the fan shroud and the 4wd selector lever.
I went to install the 4wd selector and noticed it hit the gear shifter. I could have put it in the other way but I didn't want to, so I shaved it down. Then I made a little bracket to strengthen the mount I made. Nothing fancy.
For the shroud I just slowly started cutting and shaping it to the radiator. I need a new jigsaw so I can cut the fan holes out, but other than that I'm pleased with my results so far. I'll use some foam weatherstrip to seal the gap between them.
I went to install the 4wd selector and noticed it hit the gear shifter. I could have put it in the other way but I didn't want to, so I shaved it down. Then I made a little bracket to strengthen the mount I made. Nothing fancy.
For the shroud I just slowly started cutting and shaping it to the radiator. I need a new jigsaw so I can cut the fan holes out, but other than that I'm pleased with my results so far. I'll use some foam weatherstrip to seal the gap between them.
- Thread starter
- #154
Removed the vacuum pump and power steering pump to prep for the hydroboost pump. I'm not running any vacuum anything even though I originally wanted to try and retain the clutch booster. Partly because I was annoyed I forgot to hook up the power steering line and well.....Hydroboost will be beneficial for such a heavy rig. I was already tipping 6klbs before I began the swap and even though I'm 4 wheel disc I've always thought the brakes lacked a little. I haven't even added my secondary fuel tank or my bumper. Also removed the factory clutch line to clear up space as I'm using the dodge stuff now.
Finished up the fan shroud, minus the foam stripping to "seal it" because i don't have any like I thought I did. Tight fit in the rig, but it doesn't contact anything so I'm happy.
Then i took some of the aluminum I cut out of the shroud and made a new shifter tunnel cover, hooray for making things out of garbage. I realize now I probably didn't need to cut a giant square out of the rig and could have gotten away with just opening up the space between the two pre-existing holes in the body. for now, I'll seal and riv-nut it in place. Maybe I the future I'll make one out of sheet metal and weld it in. I'll also re-use the old factory shift boots since they appear to fit. Best part, is my center console still fits! I was not expecting that.
Finished up the fan shroud, minus the foam stripping to "seal it" because i don't have any like I thought I did. Tight fit in the rig, but it doesn't contact anything so I'm happy.
Then i took some of the aluminum I cut out of the shroud and made a new shifter tunnel cover, hooray for making things out of garbage. I realize now I probably didn't need to cut a giant square out of the rig and could have gotten away with just opening up the space between the two pre-existing holes in the body. for now, I'll seal and riv-nut it in place. Maybe I the future I'll make one out of sheet metal and weld it in. I'll also re-use the old factory shift boots since they appear to fit. Best part, is my center console still fits! I was not expecting that.
Great build. Thank you for sharing it for all to follow. What was the determining factor in you going with the aftermarket radiator? Where are you shopping for your hydroboost system?
- Thread starter
- #156
Thank you! I mostly went with the aftermarket radiator because I knew it would be easier to make a fan shroud for that one vs trying to attach it to the factory one. I also wanted to try and use as much "new" stuff as I could for the swap.
Unfortunately I'm going to just piece together a bunch of stuff for the hydroboost. I thought about buying a pre-made kit but there isn't really an off the shelf option for a cummins swapped cruiser, Mark's sells a kit but the hoses wouldn't work for me so I think it'd be a waste of money. I'll buy the high pressure hose crimper and make my own hoses, and just make some sort of adapter plate to get the booster mounted to the firewall.
Mike91 referenced this site for the hydroboost in his build thread. Toyota / Lexus - https://www.powerbrakeservice.net/toyota.html
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- #158
I saw that just a couple minutes ago actually, and now think I might order most of it there. I was going to try and retain the OEM master cylinder but I think I'm going to toss that idea out the window and get a shiny new wilwood. Luckily I'm pre-ABS, and 4 wheel disc so I feel like I have a little less to worry about during the swap. I do think I'll get new braided brake lines at the calipers and remove the LSPV while I'm doing this as well.
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- #159
Made some progress over the past few days. Started working on the crossmember, which is turning out about as good as I imagined I could do with my limited tools. the 2x3 tubing is definitely overkill, I think if I do a second revision i'll use 1x2 instead. all that's left is to cut out the straight portion of the bar which I used to keep the sections with the bolt holes aligned, and then weld it all up. Doesn't have to be pretty yet, just needs to work. I have the crapiest little 110 wire feed welder, please don't make fun of my very crappy welds lol.
i got my clutch master mounted, finally! I accidentally broke the previous one, had to order a new one. Also had to order a special fitting to get the mcleod quick release line on. I sat in the drivers seat and pushed the pedal / shifted gears a few times and felt like an excited little kid because for some reason, that felt like a milestone.
I really doubt I'm going to use this exhaust manifold. there's just no clearance to the firewall from the exhaust flange on the turbo. I got a spacer and cut / angled it to clear the wastegate actuator and to give the exhaust flange more room but it's just too tight. The turbo might also be too low and wont drain properly. But man it looks super cool down there! I have an adapter that is designed to work with the factory dodge manifold for a RHD cruiser, but since I'm not at the point where I need to finish installing the turbo, I'm treating this as an exercise to get better at fabricating.
i got my clutch master mounted, finally! I accidentally broke the previous one, had to order a new one. Also had to order a special fitting to get the mcleod quick release line on. I sat in the drivers seat and pushed the pedal / shifted gears a few times and felt like an excited little kid because for some reason, that felt like a milestone.
I really doubt I'm going to use this exhaust manifold. there's just no clearance to the firewall from the exhaust flange on the turbo. I got a spacer and cut / angled it to clear the wastegate actuator and to give the exhaust flange more room but it's just too tight. The turbo might also be too low and wont drain properly. But man it looks super cool down there! I have an adapter that is designed to work with the factory dodge manifold for a RHD cruiser, but since I'm not at the point where I need to finish installing the turbo, I'm treating this as an exercise to get better at fabricating.
I wouldn’t deign to make fun of anyone’s welds, because I suck. Lol. But I would say, just inspect them closely after a bit of time has gone by. In my experience, I’ve had trouble getting good penetration with those light welders. Probably my skill level, and I bet you’ll be fine. But just double check whenever you’re under there. Cheap insurance. I’ve been enjoying your write up! Good stuff.
