BTW: Cover/cap/tape off the water pipe nipple coming off oil cooler, to keep dirt out.
You stated: "When I reinstalled the sensor, I used a torque wrench set at 65 flbs on the longer bolt (see below photo) and snapped it. I soon discovered my tongue wrench was bad"
I'll assume that 65 flbs wasn't a typo, since you busted the bolt (stud). The proper torque is 66 IN-lbf (INCH) which is about 5ft-lbf. (foot). I use a 1/4" drive torque wrench for these very lite INCH torques.
While in there:
Check bearing of fan bracket. First by spinning. Any sound, it's no good, any rough or binding feel, it's no good. Then try to move shaft up and down. Any lateral movement whatsoever it's no good.
Check tensions of drive belt tensioner. I do this by feel, putting my 1/2" dr ratchet wrench w/socket on the 14mm pulley bolt. Then pull on wrench turning counter clock wise (CCW), as we do to take tension off drive belt. Since it's a left hand thread. You should feel a good amount of spring back pressure as you pull on wrench, turning CCW up to about 30 degrees. The pressure increases as you pull CCW. I've been using a spring scale on the end of my ratchet wrench to get reads of tension as I pull, at each of the 4 points on indicator of tensioner. New tensioner I get about 6.5lb @1st point, 9lb @ 2nd, 10.6lb @ 3rd and 12.6lb @4th. I give you those reading, just so you've an idea of how much feel. You don't need to use a spring (fish) scale, Just the feel is good enough. Since my angle of pull and distance out on wrench handle, is going to be different than yours. You readings would be different anyway.
Next check tension and idler pulley bearings. A pulley spun by hand that keeps free spinning is likely no good. New pulley bearing will hardly make 1 revolution before it stops spinning. They should be silent, any sound they're no good.
For the tensioner pulley bearing, if tensioner good. I just replace the bearing. If idler bearing bad, I replace the pulley (OEM best) which comes with bearing.
The tensioner of drive (AKA fan or serpentine) belt and fan bracket. I do with timing belt jobs, if needed. As it just then a parts cost. As labor is in the T-belt service. But if either bad, they should be replace at this time.
Tension pulley w/bearing can be purchased but best cost wise, is to buy the whole tension. I just pressing in new bearing, if tensioner good.
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I no longer use old bearing to press in new. I use a socket that make contact with only outer race of bearing. Where you can use old bearing. The inner race will take some of the pressure, which we don't want excess pressure here. As it could reduce service life of bearing.
You stated: "When I reinstalled the sensor, I used a torque wrench set at 65 flbs on the longer bolt (see below photo) and snapped it. I soon discovered my tongue wrench was bad"
I'll assume that 65 flbs wasn't a typo, since you busted the bolt (stud). The proper torque is 66 IN-lbf (INCH) which is about 5ft-lbf. (foot). I use a 1/4" drive torque wrench for these very lite INCH torques.
While in there:
Check bearing of fan bracket. First by spinning. Any sound, it's no good, any rough or binding feel, it's no good. Then try to move shaft up and down. Any lateral movement whatsoever it's no good.
Check tensions of drive belt tensioner. I do this by feel, putting my 1/2" dr ratchet wrench w/socket on the 14mm pulley bolt. Then pull on wrench turning counter clock wise (CCW), as we do to take tension off drive belt. Since it's a left hand thread. You should feel a good amount of spring back pressure as you pull on wrench, turning CCW up to about 30 degrees. The pressure increases as you pull CCW. I've been using a spring scale on the end of my ratchet wrench to get reads of tension as I pull, at each of the 4 points on indicator of tensioner. New tensioner I get about 6.5lb @1st point, 9lb @ 2nd, 10.6lb @ 3rd and 12.6lb @4th. I give you those reading, just so you've an idea of how much feel. You don't need to use a spring (fish) scale, Just the feel is good enough. Since my angle of pull and distance out on wrench handle, is going to be different than yours. You readings would be different anyway.
Next check tension and idler pulley bearings. A pulley spun by hand that keeps free spinning is likely no good. New pulley bearing will hardly make 1 revolution before it stops spinning. They should be silent, any sound they're no good.
For the tensioner pulley bearing, if tensioner good. I just replace the bearing. If idler bearing bad, I replace the pulley (OEM best) which comes with bearing.
The tensioner of drive (AKA fan or serpentine) belt and fan bracket. I do with timing belt jobs, if needed. As it just then a parts cost. As labor is in the T-belt service. But if either bad, they should be replace at this time.
Tension pulley w/bearing can be purchased but best cost wise, is to buy the whole tension. I just pressing in new bearing, if tensioner good.
Press out old drive belt tensioner pulley bearing Land Cruiser
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. I didn’t know about IN-lbf and assumed everything was measured in foot pounds but mistakes can be the greatest teachers 
. I purchased a 1/4 torque wrench from Amazon for around $50. I checked all of the pulleys and everything appeared to be in working order. 
