- Thread starter
- #81
Thank 2001LC. Gracie starts in N. Once I have a crank; no start, I’ll pull the fuel line and get back with the results.
Crank but No Start (Solved)
- Thread starter Phallen
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Just an update.
While I was at work, I had my wife simulate the conditions when Gracie won’t start. The idea was to park the LC in the sun, let her run for 15 mins, turn the LC off and secure it w key fob, wait 5 mins and try to get her to start.
As stated, she parked the LC in the sun and let her run for 15 mins. The LC did not make it the full 15 mins before the engine cut off. While on FaceTime, she tried to start it but the LC would crank but not start. The security light stayed off the entire time.
Unfortunately, I won’t be able to simulate the incident and check the fuel line till this weekend
While I was at work, I had my wife simulate the conditions when Gracie won’t start. The idea was to park the LC in the sun, let her run for 15 mins, turn the LC off and secure it w key fob, wait 5 mins and try to get her to start.
As stated, she parked the LC in the sun and let her run for 15 mins. The LC did not make it the full 15 mins before the engine cut off. While on FaceTime, she tried to start it but the LC would crank but not start. The security light stayed off the entire time.
Unfortunately, I won’t be able to simulate the incident and check the fuel line till this weekend
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So didn't go through the entire thread but I believe the pre 2002 LCs had an issue with the EFI fuse terminal coming loose. This really could only be remedied by replacing the entire fuse box in the engine bay.
Here is an example of what I am talking about...
Perhaps replacing the entire fuse box is not the only remedy.
My immobilizer fix
I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...
forum.ih8mud.com
BullElk
SILVER Star
Seems to be that unless Toyota has changed and solved the problem with new fuse boxes, the same melting of the EFI fuse will continue to happen.
The immobilizer fuse bypass above seems to be a more permanent option than a new fuse box….. at a small fraction of the price of a new box.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
If I remember correctly it was an issue with the connector inside the box, post 2000 the crimps were corrected to hold the fuse better hence why this is only really an issue on 98-00 vehicles.
BullElk
SILVER Star
I have had the exact same problem. The EFI fuse slot connected to the power port of the relay gets too hot and melts. I guess from a bad connection. But bypassing it is extremely more cost efficient than buying and installing a new fuse box any way you look at it.
I had a 2002 LX that I recently sold that had the fuse box replaced by PO. I’m guessing it had the same issue.
Based on the number of 2001-2002 owners who bought my kit, I would say the corrected crimps didn't address the problem if it was indeed a change in crimps.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
I could have my dates mixed up, thought it was corrected in 2000 but could have been something they corrected in 2003.
2003+ has a complete different fuse box. Those fuse box will not work in earlier models without major work.
- Thread starter
- #91
Update.
I have not been able to intentionally simulate the “crank, no start” issue but it has occurred on a few occasions when my wife was driving. On one particular incident, LC started and reversed from a parking stall without issue but when my wife put it in drive, the engine died. Afterwards, the LC did the usual crank but start.
I have purchased a new Denso fuel pump from TRD Shop and a fuel filter from a local auto parts store. Everything should be here by Wednesday and, time willing, I should have it installed by Friday.
Last year, when I was experiencing the issue, I replaced the fuel pump that I got off Amazon (it’s documented earlier in this thread). Unfortunately, I didn’t keep the receipt so I don’t remember the brand but I believe it was around $150.00. This past monday, I went to the local the Toyota dealership to order the fuel pump and they quoted me $650.00 for just the pump, not including installation. For the same fuel pump, TRD Shop had it for $318.00; other websites, listed it for $315 - $450. It drive me nuts to see the Toyota dealership charging so much. **End Rant**
I’ll keep everyone updated.
I have not been able to intentionally simulate the “crank, no start” issue but it has occurred on a few occasions when my wife was driving. On one particular incident, LC started and reversed from a parking stall without issue but when my wife put it in drive, the engine died. Afterwards, the LC did the usual crank but start.
I have purchased a new Denso fuel pump from TRD Shop and a fuel filter from a local auto parts store. Everything should be here by Wednesday and, time willing, I should have it installed by Friday.
Last year, when I was experiencing the issue, I replaced the fuel pump that I got off Amazon (it’s documented earlier in this thread). Unfortunately, I didn’t keep the receipt so I don’t remember the brand but I believe it was around $150.00. This past monday, I went to the local the Toyota dealership to order the fuel pump and they quoted me $650.00 for just the pump, not including installation. For the same fuel pump, TRD Shop had it for $318.00; other websites, listed it for $315 - $450. It drive me nuts to see the Toyota dealership charging so much. **End Rant**
I’ll keep everyone updated.
jeezaloo - hope it turns out to be the pump, denso pump should only be about $130.00....
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So you should be able to go into your Amazon account and look back in your order history to see what brand it was.
Denso is same OE as Toyota Branded for lots of parts. I actually just did this and got the Denso kit (with fuel sock) for about $130 to my door. Since you already got yours on order just use it if it is the TOYOTA branded one.
I'm with you on this issue troubleshooting. I hope to have mine resolved tomorrow as I have gone through replacing a number of things, mind you they were old and was likely good parts maintenance, but its getting old chasing this code.
@Phallen it's probably a wire. I wouldn't chase the fuel pump without a pressure. Since you drove a long time without issue that's just probably not it. Unless maybe you did pinch a return line with vise grips. Contrary to what anyone says, you should never do that with a fuel injected car. Even using a brake line clamp.
I wouldn't chase the fuse box either unless something pointed at it, like a relay. The vvti box is stout.
I still think it's a wire or sensor. The first one I'd replace without being able to watch the signal and just spending money on parts is the cam sensor wiring. It's part # 196-1004 I don't know what the toyota oem # is.
That's the first thing I'd tear down and look at. If that's not it I'd still say a wire somewhere on a sensor. I'd check them all.
I wouldn't chase the fuse box either unless something pointed at it, like a relay. The vvti box is stout.
I still think it's a wire or sensor. The first one I'd replace without being able to watch the signal and just spending money on parts is the cam sensor wiring. It's part # 196-1004 I don't know what the toyota oem # is.
That's the first thing I'd tear down and look at. If that's not it I'd still say a wire somewhere on a sensor. I'd check them all.
- Thread starter
- #95
Unfortunately, Amazon does not go that far back for me. To be safe, I’ll replace it with the Toyota brand when it comes in.
*** Reference the attached video ***
I took a look at the crank shaft sensor wire and it was difficult to see if it was damaged. Referencing the photos in Post #17 (page 1) by 2001LC, it seems like such a tight fit towards the top of the crank shaft sensor wire. I could see how easy it is for the wire to rub against the belt. I think to be safe, I’ll see about having it replaced tomorrow.
While trying to follow the crank shaft sensor wire, I did notice a separate wire coming from the sensor that is attached to the metal housing that holds the oil filter was frayed so that needs to be replaced. Any idea what kind of sensor it is and the part number for the wire? I’ve looked at a number of diagrams on McGeorge Toyota‘s website but to no avail.
I’ll be returning the fuse box on Monday and using the $700 else where. Thanks for everyone’s input and help.
both paragraphs, you said crank shaft.
the cam sensor is more easily damaged.
Oil pressure sender is the bottom cylinder with one wire in the video.
Those three items, oil press, crank position, cam position are all on one wire bundle coming down from the drivers side valve cover.
There are multiple sensors required for it to start, those are two of them.
There's an item in the book that talks about a ten second shut down on the cam sensor.
You said something about ten seconds, and in the first post you talked about someone doing the timing belt recently.
Hopefully if someone replaced the cam sensor itself they looked at the wiring that it plugs into.
I don't have an opinion on if it's worth it to pay someone to take it down that far to inspect all three connectors wires. Unless no one has touched them since the timing belt install.
On your own it might be possible to take the drivers side timing belt cover off and get a mirror down there and look up. You see any red black or white wires or the bare shield wire rubbed you'd know it was worthwhile to then pay someone else to do it all, or know that it appeared normal and the cam sensor wiring was not rubbing on the timing belt.
Even mine done at the toyota dealer for the first time before I bought it was a bit wrong.
Second timing belt by me I did find it rubbed for 80k miles and was halfway through the red wire. I just repaired it.
It could be just an intermittent connection. It's extremely easy to make a mistake there upon reassembly.
the cam sensor is more easily damaged.
Oil pressure sender is the bottom cylinder with one wire in the video.
Those three items, oil press, crank position, cam position are all on one wire bundle coming down from the drivers side valve cover.
There are multiple sensors required for it to start, those are two of them.
There's an item in the book that talks about a ten second shut down on the cam sensor.
You said something about ten seconds, and in the first post you talked about someone doing the timing belt recently.
Hopefully if someone replaced the cam sensor itself they looked at the wiring that it plugs into.
I don't have an opinion on if it's worth it to pay someone to take it down that far to inspect all three connectors wires. Unless no one has touched them since the timing belt install.
On your own it might be possible to take the drivers side timing belt cover off and get a mirror down there and look up. You see any red black or white wires or the bare shield wire rubbed you'd know it was worthwhile to then pay someone else to do it all, or know that it appeared normal and the cam sensor wiring was not rubbing on the timing belt.
Even mine done at the toyota dealer for the first time before I bought it was a bit wrong.
Second timing belt by me I did find it rubbed for 80k miles and was halfway through the red wire. I just repaired it.
It could be just an intermittent connection. It's extremely easy to make a mistake there upon reassembly.
- Thread starter
- #97
I really should have started out with this info. I‘ve been repeatedly been getting the P0335 error code (Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit”) throughout this ordeal. I would clear the code using BlueDriver. When I would get the “Crank, No Start” issue, half the time it would throw the P0335 code and the other half of the time, it wouldn’t throw a code. I had the Crankshaft Position sensor replaced a few weeks ago but it is still throwing the P0335 code, half the time.
By chance, what book are you referencing?
the fsm.
I'm sorry you didn't mention that on page one. lol.
timing belt jobs, promised to make it to florida and back and then wiring will be just frayed enough to plague you with non relevant replies.
So yes, pay someone to take that all apart and repair, or better yet replace that wiring. (all 3).
I'm sorry you didn't mention that on page one. lol.
timing belt jobs, promised to make it to florida and back and then wiring will be just frayed enough to plague you with non relevant replies.
So yes, pay someone to take that all apart and repair, or better yet replace that wiring. (all 3).
- Thread starter
- #99
Yeah, I definitely didn’t mention It in the first post, it came later as the issue progressed. @2001LC even told me to chase down the P0335 code before moving on to other remedies like the fuel pump earlier in this thread. SMH
So I should have the Crank Shaft Position Sensor and the Oil Pressure Sensor wiring harness replaced and since they are already working in there, I should have the Cam Shaft Position Sensor wire harness replaced?
should be inspected to find the bad spots. Which is easy. Let them make a decision to replace or repair.
I don't know if the crank has the same sort of intermediate wire set up like the cam sensor does. If it did I'd replace. But ask them to show you the bad spots and go from there. don't let them use oreily or auto zone stuff, either pay toyota full fare or get denso stuff from w w w densoautoparts.com/find-my-part
I don't know if the crank has the same sort of intermediate wire set up like the cam sensor does. If it did I'd replace. But ask them to show you the bad spots and go from there. don't let them use oreily or auto zone stuff, either pay toyota full fare or get denso stuff from w w w densoautoparts.com/find-my-part
