If the valve clearanced keeps increasing something has to be going on, but it doesn't have to be the lifter. The lifter is just a piece of hardened metal, so if it is hardened properly there isn't much to go wrong. A more likely culprit is valve seat recession. This is where the valve seat is loose in the casting and the constant pounding wears the seat deeper into the casting. Mark A had a thread on this a while back. I have never seen it happen on a F/2F because I haven't seen that many, but it was pretty common on air cooled VW engines with aluminum heads.
Cracked block (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rsbcruiser
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rsbcruiser
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- #42
vtcruiser, next step is stitching the block without welding. Certainly you are the voice of reason. Motor is "holy Grail" 74 f engine. More torque than 2f design. Same oil system. is a one year only (hard to find, maybe replacement is not impossible). If lock-n-stitch fails then off to the pros, they weld over failed l-n-s. I have her rebuilt, 0.040" over 4 ring pistons available, weld build crank, remachine block, balance, Commitment! This puppy means something to me. New everything. Get it over with.
rsbcruiser
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- #43
thanks again Pin_head. "Valve seat recesion" is a new one on me.I will consider it. Certainly, a greater possibility with the stronger valve springs i would think. I wil know this afternoon if my suspicions are right. I'm thinking that the ball of the pushrod is moving around in the lifter cup. Thinking the pushrod ball end is getting chewed up in the process. I will post on my magic increasing valve gap thread some pictures if I find evidence.
rsbcruiser
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- #44
Lock-N-Stitch shipment.
My Lock-N-Stitch order came in today. Their "special tap" yep, yes in deedy that there is a special tap. I ordered 2 of their #7 b drill bits. Real titanium nitrate coated drill bits, machine shop quality. NICE, can't get that at Harbor freight. A bottle of sealant,to be placed on the pin threads before driving them in. These really cool pins, a box of 50. Look alot like Freightliner breakoff frame bolts, cept much smaller. Looks like I'll be curling up to a good CD tonight, maybe do some light? reading.
My Lock-N-Stitch order came in today. Their "special tap" yep, yes in deedy that there is a special tap. I ordered 2 of their #7 b drill bits. Real titanium nitrate coated drill bits, machine shop quality. NICE, can't get that at Harbor freight. A bottle of sealant,to be placed on the pin threads before driving them in. These really cool pins, a box of 50. Look alot like Freightliner breakoff frame bolts, cept much smaller. Looks like I'll be curling up to a good CD tonight, maybe do some light? reading.
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rsbcruiser
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- Thread starter
- #45
The little screw pluggy thing
i know you guys wanna see this. Aint he cute?
i know you guys wanna see this. Aint he cute?
This oughta be good....
rsbcruiser
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- #47
Yes sir Mr. IDave, rubbing my hands with delight on this one! This here is my kind of fun! So......... Who is taking bets that this will work? Let me know, I wanna put a fiver with the naysayers. You know, Insurance.
rsbcruiser
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- #48
Research
Hello all, I am recovering from a cold and hiding behind a fairweather thread. I read the book and viewed Stitch N Locks video. My overall impression of the process is that it will be almost too easy! Well at least stay tuned, I bet you will be shocked by how easy it is. Of course, I will be cheating. I plan on performing the stitch process with the motor removed from the Rig. older and wiser. Kinda looking forward to yarding her outta there, soon as I talk myself into it that is. I did not buy the drill guide. If you choose to do a stitch with your block installed a drill guide might prove more useful. I see no need for a drill guide. I say this though with the knowledge and ability of a machinist, years of drilling and tapping. That said follks, easy to hose this one too. For example, they only give you one special tap. Break that and you sit and wait for overnight. Bet S-N-L overnight superstars. They suggest using power tapping! Years of experience bs again here, meaning only handtap if you truly no what you are doing. Tapping is where I bet all of this can go horribly wrong. Me, I'm handtapping, grumbling over my shoulder lessons learned from the Ol timers. Oh ya, made it this far so the critique on literature, COMPLETELY READ THE MANUAL, the tips on how NOT to hose this project and why are best explained there. The manual blows for sure, hard to read, poor printing (come on guys, 21st century here, step up) but straightforward. Watching the video dovetails nicely, it is short so definitely worth your time.
Hello all, I am recovering from a cold and hiding behind a fairweather thread. I read the book and viewed Stitch N Locks video. My overall impression of the process is that it will be almost too easy! Well at least stay tuned, I bet you will be shocked by how easy it is. Of course, I will be cheating. I plan on performing the stitch process with the motor removed from the Rig. older and wiser. Kinda looking forward to yarding her outta there, soon as I talk myself into it that is. I did not buy the drill guide. If you choose to do a stitch with your block installed a drill guide might prove more useful. I see no need for a drill guide. I say this though with the knowledge and ability of a machinist, years of drilling and tapping. That said follks, easy to hose this one too. For example, they only give you one special tap. Break that and you sit and wait for overnight. Bet S-N-L overnight superstars. They suggest using power tapping! Years of experience bs again here, meaning only handtap if you truly no what you are doing. Tapping is where I bet all of this can go horribly wrong. Me, I'm handtapping, grumbling over my shoulder lessons learned from the Ol timers. Oh ya, made it this far so the critique on literature, COMPLETELY READ THE MANUAL, the tips on how NOT to hose this project and why are best explained there. The manual blows for sure, hard to read, poor printing (come on guys, 21st century here, step up) but straightforward. Watching the video dovetails nicely, it is short so definitely worth your time.
Depending on how flat the surface is, a home made drilling and tapping guide might be useful. Just drill two holes in a small chunk of 3/4 inch steel or aluminum for the diameters of the drill and tap. That way you can be sure that the tap is at the same angle that the drill went in. Bad things happen with a crooked tap.
rsbcruiser
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- #50
Clearance for performing stitch op.
As the picture shows, it is a tough go for drilling and tapping in the engine bay. Removal of the steering box and inside fender a consideration. Using an air powered 90 deg head drill and stub drills maybe but, risky, hard to drill and tap straight without a straight shot. So out she comes.
As the picture shows, it is a tough go for drilling and tapping in the engine bay. Removal of the steering box and inside fender a consideration. Using an air powered 90 deg head drill and stub drills maybe but, risky, hard to drill and tap straight without a straight shot. So out she comes.
I think you're wise to pull it. Get that water jacket clean and dry first, too.
rsbcruiser
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- #52
You've got that boom waythefxxx out there!!! Be careful.
Now I am following this thread to see how the pins work. Really.
Paint that prick a decent color while it is out. And to NOT follow the "Big Gay 2F Build" thread.
Ed
Now I am following this thread to see how the pins work. Really.
Paint that prick a decent color while it is out. And to NOT follow the "Big Gay 2F Build" thread.
Ed
rsbcruiser
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- #54
Ya I know Degnol, made me a little nervous, pulled the bumper last time. Motor came out real easy though, no probs, good hoist. And, "a decent color"? LOOK at er Deg, shes a purty girl, closest I could get to chevy orange out of a can, nice stuff, high temp. YA also know what you are refering to concerning Trollholes color collision. WO, definetely NOT going there. So, who's holding bets on the pins working? I want in.You've got that boom waythe**** out there!!! Be careful.
Now I am following this thread to see how the pins work. Really.
Paint that prick a decent color while it is out. And to NOT follow the "Big Gay 2F Build" thread.
Ed
Paint it real pretty.......like this!
What brand band saw you got there Ed?
Dunno......shindawoo, Pingtong, MooShoo? The best Cummins has to offer! Actually, with a little setup, it has done a fine job for my hack-rication
rsbcruiser
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- #58
Now that's real nice Ed, Like the contrast. Sharp eye there grant but that theres a drop saw migaw. Anyways, Ed, next time you take pictures of your engine paint job, hide the latex house paint can. And nice shot into the cylinder heads, good ABUNDANT overspray into the combustion chamber. I myself use old spark plugs there feller been. Too each, their own.
rsbcruiser
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- #59
Close up of leak
The crack runs vertical. Glare off of the head bolt protrusion caused the discolered look running above the crack. There is an interuption in the leak, I believe this is due to the jbweld. I don't think the crack is very long, 2, 3 inches max. Cleanup and crack chasing next.
The crack runs vertical. Glare off of the head bolt protrusion caused the discolered look running above the crack. There is an interuption in the leak, I believe this is due to the jbweld. I don't think the crack is very long, 2, 3 inches max. Cleanup and crack chasing next.
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Looks like it should go straightforwardly, as long as you can see all of the crack. Mine was quite hard to see in places.
