Cracked block (1 Viewer)

[rsbcruiser]

We never used these pins in leak repair. We only used them to repair iron castings by welding. I guess they didn't have enough leaks to go around.

Their purpose in welding repair is very different. The screws extend through the welding heat affected zone to give mechanical strenght to the joint, but they don't have to seal anything. I'm betting that it seals and if not, you might have to put a couple more plugs in it. This method of repairing cracks was old when I took machine shop, and that was a long time ago.

Ok, I think I've got you there. A completeley different app. but a maybe for my block. I was wondering why the guys down at BS were scratching head when I mentioned your ref.. "BETTING! that it seals" so it's YOU, least you know who's holding, come on $5 for me on SEALED. Only one small cast iron tear when drilling. Picture Olympic flag rings, overlap in rings, little point there between the rings. Thinking that if BS finds a leak then drill leaking pin out "L" size drill, L8 pin it, Stitch works, double your money.

 

[rsbcruiser]

L8AS pins arrived today

The L8AS pins came in the mail today. They're the larger of the two pins in the photo. What do you think? Looks big enough to me.

 

[IDave]

whack-a-mole!

 

[aksnowryder]

whack-a-mole!

that is funny...

Ok... tap that hole and let's hear how the pressure test comes out. You've got a great thread going. This is great knowledge to have. Makes me want to crack something just to try my hand at it. (OK, not really, but really do wish I had this knowledge a few years back.)

 

[rsbcruiser]

that is funny...

Ok... tap that hole and let's hear how the pressure test comes out. You've got a great thread going. This is great knowledge to have. Makes me want to crack something just to try my hand at it. (OK, not really, but really do wish I had this knowledge a few years back.)

Ya, Idaves on to something there and thanks. Knowladge, me too, funny how now that I know I keep hearing the oh ya, thats been around awhile. Several times, I've heard people say they dumped or ruined a good rig due to cracked blocks.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Drilling and tapping the L8 hole

I used a L series drill to drill the L8 pin hole (boy was I nervous). Tapped with LnS' L8 tap and drove the pin home.

 

[rsbcruiser]

I cut the L8 pin remnant down. And one at a time I drilled, tapped and drove L6 pins on both side of the L8 pin. This completed the stitching process except for peening and pressure testing. I plan on letting Bearing Services do the peening after testing. The next step is to tear down the block in preparation for deliveery to BS on Monday. I'll let ya'll know the results.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Final Diagnosis

The cracked block was checked out by a pro shop. The final diagnosis is the stitching held but I went off track toward the top missing some of the crack. The block itself is now going to be s****ped in favor of one in better condition.

My thoughts, this process works. There are pitfalls, correct spacing between pins will minimize problems. Another (obviously) is, great (ok, better than I did) care must be taken to locate the crack. I had trouble locating a penetrating die for this purpose, subbed another product and paid the price. So if you are in a bind, don't want to weld or pull the motor then $100+ a day to read up then actually do it, you got yourself there a crack at a fixed block feller been. Also, hss steel drillin stub drills (don't be a dumbass like me and buy their pos drills), maybe a center drill to add to what they sell in the kit.

One more, not for the weak of will, set the beer down first.

 

[IDave]

I found that seeing the crack in a cold engine always got me, too. Can't fix what you can't see, regardless of method.

 

[aksnowryder]

Thanks for the update. Too bad it didn't work all the way, but again knowledge, it is a good thing! Thank you for a great thread and passing on what you've learned.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Thanks for the update. Too bad it didn't work all the way, but again knowledge, it is a good thing! Thank you for a great thread and passing on what you've learned.

Why, by golly......I'm blushing. You are very welcome. But compared to what I've gained from this site I am still in debt. Fun sharing the pain too. I do think the stiching process would have worked. If the situation were different I would have just used more pins to fix the part of the crack I missed. But with the project suddenly taking a different direction it is time to cut my losses. If you know anyone who needs to fix their cracked block let me know. I have enough pins and all for at least one more project.

 

[Pin_Head]

Sorry to hear that this didn't work out for you. Like a lot of things that are complex, it doesn't always turn out right the first time you do it, but you have learned what is important for doing it right. Next time I bet it would work out fine.

 

[merbesfield]

While we are looking at LNS you guys should check out their other company/product which I have been researching for my problem block. It is called Full Torque and they are Thread Inserts. Very cool product and I hope it works for my problem block bc it seems a real waste for me to have to rebuild my block just bc of a dam small crack. check out Full-Torque, Permanent Thread Replacement and my block crack thread at: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/195469-crack-block-need-help.html
For what it's worth, based on all the research I did on block welding, it is the worst thing you could do to try and fix a crack and will not work. Makes block brittle etc. And that Muggyweld is joke?

 

[cruiser ken]

crack in the engine block

I fired up the troopy today and it started leaking. Took a look under the hood and found this. Can this be repaired without pulling the engine? Can I MIG it? JBWeld?

OK did a serach and there's lots of info here on this subject, thanks.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/182856-cracked-block.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/34217-cracked-2f-block-should-i-weld.html

 

[rsbcruiser]

Top of my head?

Off the top of the ol noggin I believe the C pins are for corners. I was advised by the guys at lock-n-stitch to go with the L pins. Give them a call, (800-736-8261) they will clear it up for sure. Looks like a good canidate and good pics too! I still have 20+ pins of each L6AS and L8AS, also the taps. IM me and we can work it out. Much better option than welding in frame. Look at your clearances. Do you have a 90 deg head air drill? If you can get a drill in there go for it. I sure would like to see someone do it right and have it work out. From my experience it does not seem impossible, more my own errrors caused my problems and not the product. Send it all to you for dirt cheap just to see someone do her up right only if you promise to post your attempt. Consider getting their drill guide, might help avoid some of the problems I experienced. Good luck with it. A Troopy! beyond cool.

 

[cruiser ken]

Learned a lot from your pics and posts. I'm going to pay special attention to finding where the crack actually ends. I'll have to get the pnuematic drill, I don't have one, it's a good tool to have though so worth the price. I'll give them a call and see what they say. Thanks for pioneering this solution.

 

[merbesfield]

Do not weld, it will only make it worse. From what I have seen, LNS or a new block.

 

[cruiser ken]

I called them and the kit was $365, I'm thinking I'll just drop a different 2F in it for that much. Damn, is that what they charged you?

 

[rsbcruiser]

Wow, mega dollars, no, I got out of there for around $100 + the mistake. Can't imagine, maybe it is the drill guide. PM me if you go this way, I'll dump my leftovers for cheap.

 

[cruiser ken]

I may have to call them back. I looked around their website some more and I think he quoted me for a kit that had several sizes of locks not the smaller kit.