Correct badges for 73 FJ55?

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I purchased some fender badges off ebay a while back, now that I am assembling the truck, I noticed two holes line up but the others are off. The little pins on the back that go in the holes snapped off instantly. Does anyone have a part number for the correct badges for a 73 FJ55? Or the most reliable source for reproductions that fit factory holes?
 
Some times you need to be creative , Show us a picture of your 55 ?

20250407_193723  55 fender decal.jpg
 
Replicating them would require plating which in order to do correctly requires hexavalent chromium which is about the most toxic thing on earth and most industrialized countries have banned it.

I've got a plan to repop a few but they aren't going to be plated pot metal.
 
Like this? I started a return and it would cost almost a third of the cost for ship. so I broke off a pin and made them work till I get the real ones.

Screenshot_20250408-055941.png
 
These pics are off of my microfiche set for the FJ40 and FJ55 for the US and Canadian market for the period from 03/69 to 07/80. I was able to get this set from a local Toyota dealer in the early eighties. I apologize for the poor quality, but these microfiche panels are over forty years old and well worn and my viewer is a relic from the past as well. Look at item "75361 Plate". Good luck with your search and project.

20250408_071937.jpg


20250408_072734.jpg
 
There seems to be some confusion regarding the 73 badges so maybe this information will help. Up to 09/73, the badge was two emblems as circled in blue. For what I assume would be a 74 model year (09/73) and later, it's one badge and, as @Dudleyfj40 posted, it's still available from Toyota.

Fender Badge parts diagram.jpg
 
Replicating them would require plating which in order to do correctly requires hexavalent chromium which is about the most toxic thing on earth and most industrialized countries have banned it.

I've got a plan to repop a few but they aren't going to be plated pot metal.
What are you talking about?
 
I'm going through this right now.
I haven't seen in person the other style with the two separated emblems on the side.
Are they close enough to mistake as one complete emblem?
Edit: Here is the 3D of J Mack's STL. file. This helps, thanks!

1744120122710.png
 
I'm going through this right now.
I haven't seen in person the other style with the two separated emblems on the side.
Are they close enough to mistake as one complete emblem?
Edit: Here is the 3D of J Mack's STL. file. This helps, thanks!

View attachment 3880057
No they are not close enough to mistake as one emblem. Looks like that file is for "Landcruiser" in the two separate badge variation.

And just to add to the overall confusion. As you can see below, the single emblem (09/73 onwards) and the two badge solution (03/69 - 09/73) have the same part number.

1744120946090.png
 
I'm going through this right now.
I haven't seen in person the other style with the two separated emblems on the side.
Are they close enough to mistake as one complete emblem?
Edit: Here is the 3D of J Mack's STL. file. This helps, thanks!

View attachment 3880057
They are cursive script and very fragile.
My plan was to cast a mold of some good ones I have then fill it with some molten bronze which I already have as well.
I was going to do a full set in bronze and then paint the lowered section and try and replicate the original only using bronze instead of plated pot metal.
Polish the metal, clear coat it and it should look OK.

I need to hit up James about using his metal kiln and doing this thing.
(We both have classic car emblems to repop)
 
What are you talking about?
From what I understand, getting a correct plating on old pot metal parts is no longer possible due to a near total ban on the chemical required to does so.
Other chemicals are available but none of them look like the original plating done with hexavalent chromium.
Maybe I'm wrong but this is my understanding after attempting to source replacement parts for a few old Mcintosh audio amplifiers which use the same finish on their faceplate.
Most of the remaining stock of the correct emblems are gone so it may be time for us to start talking about making replacements. I don't know everything but between the experience of all of us we know quite a lot. Know something I don't?
Care to educate me?
 
No they are not close enough to mistake as one emblem. Looks like that file is for "Landcruiser" in the two separate badge variation.

And just to add to the overall confusion. As you can see below, the single emblem (09/73 onwards) and the two badge solution (03/69 - 09/73) have the same part number.

View attachment 3880064
Your highlighted number is not the actual p/n. See my post above with actual p/n's. That may clear up some confusion.
 
From what I understand, getting a correct plating on old pot metal parts is no longer possible due to a near total ban on the chemical required to does so.
I use Ogden Chrome and never had an issue, YMMV.


My plan was to cast a mold of some good ones I have then fill it with some molten bronze which I already have as well.
To your point of looking original this is not a great plan "A". If you're able to cast the script after shrinkage it will be different hole spacing and it will be bronze not chrome plated...

So if it where me and I was just trying to get something on my fender that looked appropriate I would use the file I provided and get it printed in plastic and use one of the many inexpensive "chrome" looking coatings.
There are many but this is the first to pop up on my search.



If I wanted to have an ultimate cool badging for my show pig then I would send me a PM and I'll machine you some out of brass and send them to Ogden Chrome and have them do their show plate. Either way if one couldn't be found on the secondary market we have options to make them.
 
I forgot to add there are several places that will 3D print in stainless steel that can be polished to a bright finish again using the file I've provided.
 
This is the process I was looking for, again several places offer it but the process is the same. I've posted about this before for plating the rear plastic vents on a pig.

 

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