Confused on EGR Delete? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Threads
5
Messages
24
Location
North Carolina
So i've been reading a ton about this topic and would really like to remove the system to simplify everything up. I have no emission checks so i want as much off as I can without hurting performance.

What my question is that if someone can walk my through possibly with pictures on the process.

Im just too confused with all the other threads
Thanks,
Will
 
There's a thread on EGR Readiness somewhere that's pretty good. Use the search function for that.
 
Is it broken?
 
mine is busted and throwing a code. i also have no emissions checking and would like to do the same. i looked into making some plates for it but just let it ride with the CEL on for 20K now.
 
I blocked mine off last year, but haven't done anything about the code yet. I was under the impression that I can put a resistor on the connector and fool it into thinking it's working properly, I have not investigated this yet.
 
Buy the gasket for the pipe to the cylinder head, buy the gasket for the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Use these gaskets as templates to make block off plates out of steel. Remove the EGR pipe from the head, on the 1fz-fe its on the very back of the head on the intake side. Might have to remove your intake manifold to get to not sure on that. Then just bolt your block off plates on using the gaskets. Pretty simple, then you need to go through and cap off any vacuum lines that went to the EGR valve, don't be cheap and ghetto, buy vacuum caps. I don't know about the resistor thing mentioned above, sure you could find it through search.
 
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1420295070_482951.jpg
Buy the gasket for the pipe to the cylinder head, buy the gasket for the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Use these gaskets as templates to make block off plates out of steel. Remove the EGR pipe from the head, on the 1fz-fe its on the very back of the head on the intake side. Might have to remove your intake manifold to get to not sure on that. Then just bolt your block off plates on using the gaskets. Pretty simple, then you need to go through and cap off any vacuum lines that went to the EGR valve, don't be cheap and ghetto, buy vacuum caps. I don't know about the resistor thing mentioned above, sure you could find it through search.

Exactly what I did. Used a chunk of stainless for the bling factor.
 
Seems like I saw somewhere that there was some thought that the EGR may be implicated in head gasket failure. Has this been verified?
 
Thanks. I've been reading alot about the 1FZ-FE, but as I'm disassembling mine it may not be worth rebuilding. If it works out though I'm looking for any and all tips.
 
A detailed concise write up on this with pictures would be great. I totally desmogged my 22R mainly because I hate all that extra BS under the hood. There are two great write ups on the 22R process on Yotatech. One like that for the 1fz-fe would be informative. I also got my 22R stuff from LC Engineering and they may have some stuff for the 80.
 
I don't claim it is needed; it just isn't worth the work to remove it. When it is working properly, you are supposed to get 2% better gas mileage and reduced NOx emissions. What is so bad about that?

When you just disconnect the vacuum lines or plug them it is off, same as if you removed it for no work.
 
Last edited:
It's totally worth removing - especially on a 18-22 yr old motor that's getting rebuilt. Anyone that's had a melted wiring harness or melted EGR actuator strand them knows it is worth it. This vehicle gets 15 mpg on its best day, discussing reduced NOx & fuel economy is pretty ridiculous.

And how many times can someone start a thread asking for technical assistance to remove the EGR - and not for opinions regarding its utility- that you feel compelled to post?
 
I don't claim it is needed; it just isn't worth the work to remove it. When it is working properly, you are supposed to get 2% better gas mileage and reduced NOx emissions. What is so bad about that?

When you just disconnect the vacuum lines or plug them it is off, same as if you removed it for no work.

Never heard anything about 2%. Is that for this motor or motors in general? Thanks in advance for the explanation!
 
Is this for a 3FE or 1FZE? Removing it on the 3FE is fairly simple and straight forward. There are good write ups on it. Plus it gives you a ton of space under the hood for other fun stuff. Not to mention I can't imagine a 23 year old EGR or Smog pump is doing a whole lot of good or being efficient. My EGR delete will happen next weekend. Parts are just sitting and waiting for my time.
 
It's totally worth removing - especially on a 18-22 yr old motor that's getting rebuilt. Anyone that's had a melted wiring harness or melted EGR actuator strand them knows it is worth it. This vehicle gets 15 mpg on its best day, discussing reduced NOx & fuel economy is pretty ridiculous.

And how many times can someone start a thread asking for technical assistance to remove the EGR - and not for opinions regarding its utility- that you feel compelled to post?

I don't like to see people waste their time and money. That is a good enough reason. Obviously I don't agree with you that it is worth removing. If you don't want it to function, just plug the vaccum lines and be done. This is technical assistance.

I have an EGR and my wiring harness is fine. If you are worried about your harness, just wrap it in some insulation tape.

Never heard anything about 2%. Is that for this motor or motors in general? Thanks in advance for the explanation!

It is a general gain for modern EGRs that dump under the throttle plate.
Google is your friend. Try "EGR and pumping loss".
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom