Builds colonel mustard, in the garage, with a wrench (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

When you built your front brakes……are your calipers on where the bleeder is on the top? I accidentally put mine on the wrong side once and they never would bleed
Yeah they’re on correctly. Brakes worked great until I took it down and rebuilt the rears lol it’s got the be these cruiser corps wheel cylinders, Ganna bleed some more tomorrow.. I really really don’t want to do the whole “remove and burp in a bucket” method I have read others doing.
 
Yeah they’re on correctly. Brakes worked great until I took it down and rebuilt the rears lol it’s got the be these cruiser corps wheel cylinders, Ganna bleed some more tomorrow.. I really really don’t want to do the whole “remove and burp in a bucket” method I have read others doing.
Did you put the “sloped” adjusters from the OEM cylinders onto the aftermarket? I think all the aftermarket have flat adjusters.


Lots of gold in that thread

12A7EDD2-AB9A-4A66-A10A-0F821166D457.jpeg
 
Last edited:
@wngrog game plan now it to attempt a rebuild on my original cylinders. They’re all completely frozen so it will not be fun. I’ve got the boots off and have them in my little ultrasonic cleaner for a while. I have some cup and boot kits in the mail. I’d rather try that and put them back on than canabalize them and transfer parts to the Chinese ones. That’s the fallback plan lol.
84D6F3C5-E683-48FC-B001-AB58725FDFFA.jpeg
 
it’s not really cannibalism to simply unscrew the sloped adjusters and screw then into the aftermarket cylinders. You should try that first.

Actually you should pinch off your soft line to the rear with some vice grips to see if the rear is exactly your issue.

I know people that drive thousands of miles in 40s with no rear brakes at all.
 
Man I busted some knuckles today! First thing this AM with coffee in hand I was determined to don’t let these brakes beat me. Tore them down, checked the angles on the piston ends as @wngrog suggested, readjusted the shoes with the wheels on, bench bled the master, then bled all 4 wheels and finally bled the rears again a few more times for giggles. Seems like I won. Brakes are back and stopping as intended. I’ll take a win. That was about noon, and I looked at the 3rd member on my garage floor with the air locker in it.. time to boogie. Tore down my front end, pulled the old 3rd and installed the air locked one. Ran my air line and it works great. Now I’m locked fr/rr. Went for a drive around town, got lots of looks and lots of “hey what year” at the gas station. I’m really digging my switch set up for the lockers. Also three on some slaps people have given me.

FA84402F-2E15-4C8A-BA44-58D97D16412F.jpeg
95EA833B-B83C-4262-867F-91740A9347F3.jpeg
3EC4B42B-24DA-4E33-850D-F09A9047F823.jpeg
3D4C1280-52E4-415F-B0F9-27A037847DB8.jpeg
 
I’m taking the 40 on a pretty long trip later this week. Is anyone is familiar with Arkansas you’ve probably heard about the High Water Mark Trail, 140 miles off-road, runs from Saint Joe to Cass. Will take me a few hours to get to the start, around the buffalo river crossing at Woolum, will be with a few other rigs and we have set aside there days to finish. Anyways todays I checked all my fluids and greased all my zerks. Then I extended my diff breathers. I used brass m10 barb fitting on the front axle with 3/8 line and stuck the oem breather in the other end. For the rear, I removed the breather cap from the breather, run my line from in and then I added a short (like the front) breather on the end.

75622ABB-ADFF-4AA5-8513-A6DC468B96B9.jpeg
 
Just keep your eye on Richland Creek. It’s the only one that can leave you trapped. I’m sure all the water is low right now but I’ve seen people get stuck between Woolum and Richland Creek with no way out.
 
Just keep your eye on Richland Creek. It’s the only one that can leave you trapped. I’m sure all the water is low right now but I’ve seen people get stuck between Woolum and Richland Creek with no way out.
Thanks Nolan! It doesn’t help that I will be the most capable rig lol I considered just taking my 4Runner but like you said water level are low right now, so I think I’ll be ok. Pics to come.
 
i have a few small leaks on the tranny inspection cover area, i have not noticed any drop in fluid levels but its definitely nice and slick down there...thats what she said?

ill be starting to collect seals, parts for a transmission pull soon. ill most likely try and pull it this winter when i do the vintage air install. is aisin the best bang for buck clutch kit on the market? you can get the whole aisin kit on rockauto for like 180 bucks. racer have the rear main, id also like to to the seal between t-case and tranny, and i think my speedo leaks also lol. any other crucial parts recommended to take a look at? id like to have all parts on hand when i yank this bear out.
 
@asu4runner, I did all of this last winter (plus the oil pan, timing cover seal and gasket and pushrod gallery cover). I went with the Aisin kit from RA, the rear main from Toyota, the transmission and transfer case seal kit from Toyota where available and Cruiser Outfitters when the Toyota parts weren't available. Just an FYI, the transfer case seal kit comes with the o-ring and seals for the speedo cable.
 
@asu4runner, I did all of this last winter (plus the oil pan, timing cover seal and gasket and pushrod gallery cover). I went with the Aisin kit from RA, the rear main from Toyota, the transmission and transfer case seal kit from Toyota where available and Cruiser Outfitters when the Toyota parts weren't available. Just an FYI, the transfer case seal kit comes with the o-ring and seals for the speedo cable.
Perfect, thanks!
 
I scored a conferr rear seat on the facebooks. Pulled my jump seats, marked out the holes for mounting and put some M8 rivnuts in for easy removal/install. I put it in with enough leg space for a tiny human and it still has about a foot of space behind. I still need seatbelts. Not sure what route I’ll take for that yet.

5FD119B7-58AF-4066-94C3-675AF42CE50D.jpeg


467CF604-D69D-4672-BC42-0815521B35E6.jpeg
 
I did all of this last winter (plus the oil pan, timing cover seal and gasket and pushrod gallery cover). I went with the Aisin kit from RA, the rear main from Toyota, the transmission and transfer case seal kit from Toyota where available and Cruiser Outfitters when the Toyota parts weren't available. Just an FYI, the transfer case seal kit comes with the o-ring and seals for the speedo cable.
@asu4runner - i did most of the same - and while you are around the TC - check parking break too. IMO
 
The High Water Mark trail was much fun. It was a real experience to do a trip like that in the 40. Solid 5ish hours on the road to get to our drop in point, and then 140ish miles on the trail, and a 2 hour road trip back to home. 40 never skipped a beat. Only casualty was a dust boot on the steering, which I already had a spare on hand.
91F24090-E001-4BA4-98FE-83769FCF1B05.jpeg
388F9C85-71B4-4F3A-A74A-673BAFCF99F6.jpeg
48AFA74E-29CE-41E6-909A-4BA5EC63BC76.jpeg
7FCC139E-4E79-4E94-BF5D-3712A5437939.jpeg
CCA97BA8-2442-46F0-B93C-9D9C734E8144.jpeg
 
Dust boot replacement! A like to use a non-destructive tie rod end tool, remove the clip ring, yank the old boot off, clean any dirt out, install new boot and grease her up. You need to reuse the old retaining ring as the new boot does not include it. Only a few bucks new from Toyota.
41A4AEBA-F306-4AD4-A0C5-F969DB7DC9C6.jpeg
459EBDEC-DFC6-4888-9E9D-DE969BBEA0EC.jpeg
7687F57E-264B-451E-BAF1-713EEB399369.jpeg
 
Started on my steering box rebuild today. Had been leaking for years. Ordered the parts from Toyota, I ended up ordering a new rag joint from racer, should be here early this week. Tear down is simple, two new seals and a paper gasket. Also did a new breather. Cleaned out the inside and filled with new gear oil (.6 qt of 90 weight). Light coat of black paint.
B74D9935-F971-4BCF-84B3-BC2971615DC4.jpeg
F9F1F47D-3795-4982-8D68-697218D40A61.jpeg
3EC82EAA-E8FA-4901-B8A2-C9A68C283923.jpeg
6169BA5B-38BA-413F-AD60-0C2E2E287381.jpeg
4DEA88DD-2E49-444D-A51A-A725003EE431.jpeg
 
Started on my steering box rebuild today. Had been leaking for years. Ordered the parts from Toyota, I ended up ordering a new rag joint from racer, should be here early this week. Tear down is simple, two new seals and a paper gasket. Also did a new breather. Cleaned out the inside and filled with new gear oil (.6 qt of 90 weight). Light coat of black paint.
Nice….🏆
 
Rag joint came in and I got my steering back together.
35F708BC-0C41-4B19-92D6-75507984538F.jpeg
D2BC5952-6991-41CA-9BA9-3A5D2FA4062B.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom