Builds colonel mustard, in the garage, with a wrench (2 Viewers)

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Happy with some progress on mustard this weekend. I stated to assemble to hard top, as I got a call that my cap with my done from glass/paint in a week. Also got all the quick hinges on, driver upper was a pain but if you remove the headlamp switch there enough room for a wrench in there. I used a pick with a 90 at the tip to line up the nuts. The gaskets I have for the top were included in a box of parts I received when I bought it. It’s the SOR kit. I did not have the seals for the rear brace, I have ordered them from Toyota along with new hardware for the front L brackets. I also have rivets and a river tool ready for installing the cap.
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I realized that I installed the door headers wrong. The upper section must be installed but the lower can’t be popped in until the rain rail is bolted in because the bolts are inside the two halves on the door header. So I took them off and then split them apart in preps for the drip rail install next week. Got confirmation from Toyota that the rear header section gaskets were NLA, or it could have been the snaps to hold them on I’m not sure, my order was refunded so I just pried my wallet open and bought from SOR today. Also started the repair on my rear door, there was a giant hole in it where the oem tire gate punched through.
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Finished fixing the hole in my rear door. I’m not good at body work, but it’s better than a big hole in the door. Each repair I do gets a little better though. When I was hanging the rear ambi doors I had some Bondo crumble off.. found some holes and had to repair it.
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Got the rear door header cleaned up and gaskets on. Reinstalled.
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Both rear ambi doors hung. Hand to loosely mount them and then each door had to be lifted up before I tightened them down to align correctly.
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hit a snag, and an aggravating one at that. i dropped my cap off for fiberglass work and paint 18 weeks ago. it was quoted at a 6 week project, but he said they were short handed so i expected longer. at 16 weeks i called the shop for an update, this is supposedly the most prominent fiberglass work shop in Fort Smith. the response i got was it was almost done, but they needed two more weeks. all good, anyways yesterday was 2 weeks so i called in to ask about picking it up today and the guy on the phone didnt know what i was talking about so i drove to the shop and see what the deal was, they hadnt touched it since dropping it off 18 weeks ago. needless to say i was pretty cheezed. i was quoted 2500 for the job, and classic cruisers has new repop caps right now for 1400 bucks, 1800 shipped to me, so i broke down and ordered a new one because he said they had one extra and could ship it out monday. anyways, thats my ted talk for the day.
 
i made a thread the other day about modding airboxes to work with the ARB snorkel kits, because the ARB kit is designed for the boxes with round intakes. i have the canister style airbox with an oblong intake tube on it. no one responded lol. i guess that means no one has done it, or no one has done it and is proud of the outcome. so i decided to just buy a nice used airbox that will work, and ill sell the canister style that i have. anyways i put the snorkel on last night because it showed up. i do quite a bit of water crossing here in rural arkansas so a little extra height on the intake is nice in my opinion, along with the added bonus of cooler air from outside the oven of an engine bay. there are a lot of aftermarket options and even...home made.. but ill be the first to admit im picky on stuff like this so i opted to pay extra for a reliable trusted brand like ARB. easy install, about an hour start to finish. worst part is obviously cutting the D window in the side panel for the snorkel to pass through. i used a 4.5" metabo, then smoothed out the cut with a padwheel. then i used a step bit to run the 16mm holes for the mounting hardware. i guess ill be swapping back to door mounted mirrors because my dumb brain didnt think about the mirrors when i started the install. i saw someone on here used spacers for the windshield mount mirror but im not sure about that idea. i have used safari brand snorkels on many vehicles and always been pleased.
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Hardware store, sheet aluminum, bend er up, create a bead so hose stays on, rivet to snout on cleaner, looks nice if you are handy with rivets. If you have some pipe to mol dthe round end and a sand bag you can make quite a nice piece this way, riveted seam goes on bottom ;)
 
I have been working out what air box to use for when the R2.8 is installed and figure out how to connect it to a snorkel. I may have to use an air box for a B series.
 
i made a thread the other day about modding airboxes to work with the ARB snorkel kits, because the ARB kit is designed for the boxes with round intakes. i have the canister style airbox with an oblong intake tube on it. no one responded lol. i guess that means no one has done it, or no one has done it and is proud of the outcome. so i decided to just buy a nice used airbox that will work, and ill sell the canister style that i have. anyways i put the snorkel on last night because it showed up. i do quite a bit of water crossing here in rural arkansas so a little extra height on the intake is nice in my opinion, along with the added bonus of cooler air from outside the oven of an engine bay. there are a lot of aftermarket options and even...home made.. but ill be the first to admit im picky on stuff like this so i opted to pay extra for a reliable trusted brand like ARB. easy install, about an hour start to finish. worst part is obviously cutting the D window in the side panel for the snorkel to pass through. i used a 4.5" metabo, then smoothed out the cut with a padwheel. then i used a step bit to run the 16mm holes for the mounting hardware. i guess ill be swapping back to door mounted mirrors because my dumb brain didnt think about the mirrors when i started the install. i saw someone on here used spacers for the windshield mount mirror but im not sure about that idea. i have used safari brand snorkels on many vehicles and always been pleased. View attachment 3089386View attachment 3089387View attachment 3089390
what is the ID of the hose?
 
I decided to take a stab at basically making a custom airbox. I cut the snout off my canister style box and then cut out a piece of square 18 gauge metal and welded it over the hole. Then I cut a 3” hole on the back of the airbox closer to the snorkel, tomorrow I’ll try and burn in a 3” round piece of metal to attach the snorkel hose to.

I also finished painting and installing the original mirrors to this truck, the door mount round glass.
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Well I finished my airbox and I will work for me. Looks half way decent and didn’t cost but about 5 bucks for a stubby 3” piece of exhaust pipe. I cut down the pipe and fish mouthed it with a grinder, welded it to the back of the airbox near the snorkel.
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Thanks. That is what I thought.

I am doing a repower with a R2.8 so I am looking for options for a air cleaner and will less room
 
tore into the driver door, i had heard to broken glass in the door when closing it and the window regs were super gunked up so it was time for a refresh. i put some new guide felts in the channel from racer but i did not realize that 40 felts came in 3 pieces, youll need the upper section and then you roll the window all the way up and then install two short lower sections, one on each side. i ordered the lower sections form toyota PN 67434-90300 and should be here this week i hope. my regs were in good shape just needed a good scrub down and i applied some fresh roller bearing grease on the gear and tracks. vacuumed out what was left of an old broken window. appears my door cards were aftermarket and used a similar but not oem fastener. ill probably order some oem cards and fasteners this week. i also needed an inner window sweep for this side, the oem sweep comes with the clips installed PN 68180-90300.

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