Builds colonel mustard, in the garage, with a wrench (2 Viewers)

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when I tore down the front axle from @89nolder I pulled the 3rd out and dropped it at a local 4wd shop to have an air locker dropped in. Well he finished, and me being a long time mini truck guy, intended to simply drop it in my rear end. Last night was an eye opener because I forgot it was a semi float rear with c clips to that front wasn’t going to work. Anyways i have one arb locked 3rd member but I’ll have to throw it in the front axle. Had the guy order the right locker and should have the rear end wrapped up soonish. Ordered wheel seals and gaskets from stealership.
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Sourced an oem Jerry can rack online, and then found a license plate bracket from racer (on order). A lot of online pictures hunting and forum reading lead time to zero solid info on how the oem rack mounts to the body, so it seems it goes wherever you make it fit. I wanted mine on the passenger rear ambi door below the glass. Since that area of the door is indented I needed a raised section to drill some holes. I put some 1/8” flatbar spaced to fit the mount holes on the rack on the back door (welded). Then drilled some holes and put some m8x1.25 rivnuts in the holes so the rack could be removed easily. I’d like to order an oem fuel can as well to match this setup.
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While the rear end was apart I replaced the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders. Have some wheel seals on order. Also grabbed a parking brake rebuild kit and knocked that out with a new seal.
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Several things done this week. Rear wheel seals last night and mounted my compressor this morning. I used m6 rivnuts and mounted it inside the passenger fender. I played with wiring until I successfully got an oem toggle switch to work with the compressor and arb wire harness. Will use two more of these oem toggles for the lockers.
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Almost forgot my plate bracket came in from racer for the Jerry can rack.
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Rear driveshaft bolts were some generic lowes hardware, grabbed some oem sets (PN comes with bolt, washer, and nut) about 7 bucks at dealer per. Also new dust covers for the brake adjuster holes at rear drums.

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Care package from Dave came in, 4plus tail lamp guards. Easy install, would have been way easier before I installed the tire carrier but I made do. I trimmed the edge of the bumperette to fit with the passenger side guard.
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Here is the current state of my air locker switch project. I used three of these oem pull toggle switches. I got some oem style 2 terminal ends and put those on the arb wire harness so everything would be plug and play. I’m having some custom decals made for the knobs but everything is installed and I THINK is working.
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I finished up my Jerry can rack and plate holder today. I was waiting on a few more m8 riv-nuts because I ran out. Installed, and lengthened the plate lamp wiring. Used some nice 4mm bullet connnectors like factory, some loom, and a little heat shrink for a clean finish.
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Sweating my butt off, really regretting the decision to rebuild my top at the moment lol. New cap from classic cruisers came in. Got the drip rail on using the rivets from CCOT. Laid a bead of white 3M seam sealer down between them as well.
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Random fixes and parts arriving. Driver door back together after the lower window track felts arrived. This pair is from racer, to be honest they fit too tight and we’re a real struggle to install. I recommend oem for this part if you can find them. New handle bezels and window crank retainer/back disk. My vintage air arrive today after a long wait time. Got the Mo Faraz decals on two of my knobs and sprayed some clear on them. I’m happy. Rear brake lines replaced.
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Man. Was a killer productive afternoon. Shop called today and said my air locker came in and they slapped it in the third for me. I ran by a grabbed it, got home from work and installed it, which took a bit I will admit. I had both oem gaskets, was a paper for the diff side and cork for the cover side. The ARB instructions are funny, because they use terms for their own items that are made up but don’t include pictures (I.E. thrust block). Once I had the proper c clips, which ended up being the thinner set, I got the cross pins installed and boom bam done. I had daylight left so I got tires on, rolled it out of the garage and had a buddy come over and set the new roof cap on. I hot bolted it in place, and got the rain visor bolted on so I could mark the rivet holes on the cap. Tomorrow I will remove the cap, drill the cap and install the rain visor, and put headliner in. Also my rear drums were not adjusted good enough so my brakes suck now, gotta fix that.

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The ARB C clip is a bear

Yeah the process was a little confusing to me (first timer here) but I understood it all in the end. My kit came with 8 freakin c clips and there was a math equation in the instructions to determine which ones to use.
 
Almost forgot my plate bracket came in from racer for the Jerry can rack. View attachment 3098581

Are those the 40-series license plate lights? Did they just transfer over to that 70-series plate bracket?
I've been hemming and hawing over how to get the same parts onto the back door. Your solutions is simple... I really like it.
 
Are those the 40-series license plate lights? Did they just transfer over to that 70-series plate bracket?
I've been hemming and hawing over how to get the same parts onto the back door. Your solutions is simple... I really like it.

Yea they are my original plate lamps. Simply remove, and they bolt right onto the Jerry can plate bracket.
 
Top fully installed. I ended up using regular pop rivets and seam sealer for the rain visor. Relieved to finally have the hardtop project done, but it was a bear. I got my headliner glued in while the cap was off for the visor install, I went about as well as expected lol. looks good for me, but there are some saggy areas in the rear corners.

Taught the rear brakes for a while again, I’m going to open them up again tomorrow and play with adjustment AGAIN. These rear brakes are such a pita.

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Spent today buttoning up loose ends. Got passenger door rebuilt. Overhead tray reinstalled. Bled brakes again.. adjusted shoes AGAIN.. still takes two pumps but man they are fantastic on that second pump. I’m afraid to adjust the shoes out any more, they already drag and the wheels get pretty warm on test runs. Got a 12v outlet run to the back for my beer fridge.
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When you built your front brakes……are your calipers on where the bleeder is on the top? I accidentally put mine on the wrong side once and they never would bleed
 

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