Builds colonel mustard, in the garage, with a wrench

[asu4runner]

Well after my steering damper issue (started a new thread, find out my frame mount has been moved outboard of oem location) I started in on my vintage air install. This is definitely not a day job for anyone considering. I will spend multiple days on this install. So far I have removed the heater box and lines, damper cables, water valve and blower assembly. Installed some new goodies on the dash.

 

[asu4runner]

More vintage air install. Interferes with the tcase shifter. Will need to bend the shifter a hair.

 

[asu4runner]

I knocked out what I would consider the worst part of the vintage air install today. The condenser. This involves alterations to the fan shroud (sometimes?) and the rad support. So purists beware! I also had to scoot my battery tray back a few notches. I did not however, have to move my rad support back, although I did not realize this until after I drilled new holes in it lol. This step didn’t make much sense to me. I do not understand how you could move the rad support in either direction without some major other mods, like the support braces and should and such. Anyways it’s all installed. For the money this kit costs I really think they should powder coat the alternator and compressor bracket. I rattle canned mine and it’s drying at the moment.

 

[Green Bean]

Nice job! Persistence pays off.

 

[asu4runner]

More progress. Got the coolant system filled, battery back in (moved back to last notch in tray) and it but by one RCH. Still cleaning up wiring and such, there’s a lot of clutter going on in the engine.l bay right now between the VA system, lockers, compressor, lights, etc. should have the last wire connected today and it should all work minus the AC side which needs to be charged. The belts I used are below, i have no power steering fyi so the lower belt runs alternator and upper is AC, it could stand to be a half inch shorter but I couldn’t find one in a 58.5 length. I think I’ll probably do another thread on just the VA kit install.

 

[asu4runner]

So my steering box rebuild was a failure, all my steering box oil leaked out. I went back and read the FSM and I missed the part where the gasket required a thin application of FIPG. Took it off, back apart, applied a thin layer of Toyota black fipg and back together. No more leaking. You can see here at the mating surface where the fluid was leaking out.

 

[asu4runner]

My gamaviti rack came in yesterday. Grabbed a few tall guys in my warehouse and stuck it on. Fits great, not too heavy and seems very sturdy.

 

[asu4runner]

Finally got around to installing the smg fab hood hinge pins and bushings. My bushings were long gone so my hood had about a half inch of side to side play. The old pins were a real pain to bash out but in the end, a BFH always wins.

 

[Honger]

Thoroughly enjoying your thread... your 40 is a beauty.

 

[asu4runner]

Thoroughly enjoying your thread... your 40 is a beauty.

thanks man! im taking the 40 over to a local AC expert to have the system vac'ed out and filled. this morning was my first drive in any kind of substantial rain, i took in quite a bit of water from under the dash, with a flashlight it appears to be coming from the bolts for the windshield hinge? and now that i think about it i remember those bolts having RTV on them when i tore it apart so maybe thats a common issue. i still have one major hurdle to do, and that is the rear ambi doors / rear sill. the doors do not line up properly and are very hard to get shut. i suspect its the home repairs on the rear sill over the years, bondo and metal patches made the sill thicker than it should be so it pushes the doors off center. i have placed an order for rear corner patches and a new rear sill from cruiser corps. other than that, id like to replace my window gaskets on the hard top and im pretty much where i want to be.

 

[asu4runner]

a while back i made a little bracket on one of my rear ambi doors and use some m8 riv nus to attach a factory jerry can rack, and then got ahold of an oem plate holder for the jerry can rack. i liked it but i hated how low the plate hung. it literally came down to the bumperette. so i decided to mod it a little. i drilled the spot welds on the plate rack, moved the mount all the way to the bottom and welded it there, which raised the plate up where it looks much better. in the first pic you can see how low it was hanging.

 

[Honger]

a while back i made a little bracket on one of my rear ambi doors and use some m8 riv nus to attach a factory jerry can rack, and then got ahold of an oem plate holder for the jerry can rack. i liked it but i hated how low the plate hung. it literally came down to the bumperette. so i decided to mod it a little. i drilled the spot welds on the plate rack, moved the mount all the way to the bottom and welded it there, which raised the plate up where it looks much better. in the first pic you can see how low it was hanging.

View attachment 3170794

View attachment 3170796

View attachment 3170797

View attachment 3170799

Your simple approach to mounting that jerry can holder keeps giving me bad thoughts... I have all the OEM parts... wish I'd have thought to install bars like that before restoring the truck!

 

[asu4runner]

Your simple approach to mounting that jerry can holder keeps giving me bad thoughts... I have all the OEM parts... wish I'd have thought to install bars like that before restoring the truck!

i have thought about it since i installed and another method, that is easily reversible, would be to just drill holes in the rear door and put the riv-nuts in the door, then attach the support bars with some flat counter sunk screws. ive since purchased some better body work materials and gotten some more practice in, and plan to go back and do some cleaning/tidy up my first attempts on patch work. my rear sill and corners are in the garage currently waiting for me to start cutting things..

 

[asu4runner]

Been a little while since I posted anything, mainly because I’ve just been enjoying my build as it was. I did mount some of Dave’s sliders from 4plus a little while back and they look fantastic but I was not super happy with how much the body flexed if you tried stepping on them. Here is my solution. I took the oem step brace and chopped it down to size, and welded it to the bottom of Dave’s slider. This way it is sturdy and fixed on the slider but still bolt on at the frame so that the slider can be removed easily. I understand this adds a little hang down which can get caught on something, so I may end up adding some boxing to it later but for now I’m happy and it braced the sliders great.

 

[Honger]

Been a little while since I posted anything, mainly because I’ve just been enjoying my build as it was. I did mount some of Dave’s sliders from 4plus a little while back and they look fantastic but I was not super happy with how much the body flexed if you tried stepping on them. Here is my solution. I took the oem step brace and chopped it down to size, and welded it to the bottom of Dave’s slider. This way it is sturdy and fixed on the slider but still bolt on at the frame so that the slider can be removed easily. I understand this adds a little hang down which can get caught on something, so I may end up adding some boxing to it later but for now I’m happy and it braced the sliders great. View attachment 3219109View attachment 3219110View attachment 3219111View attachment 3219112

Has this created a rigid connection between the body and frame? The 4Plus sliders bolt to the body tub, right?

 

[asu4runner]

Has this created a rigid connection between the body and frame? The 4Plus sliders bolt to the body tub, right?

yes it has, and you may be thinking, man this could create some ride quality discomfort because there is no bushings between the two. well, probably, but i havnt noticed any. its not like these things arent already just go karts with tractor motors. the sliders had enough flex when stepped on that it cracked my paint down the body seam line on both sides of the truck so i had to add some sort of brace. the oem side steps also connect from chassis to body, they just have that tiny piece of beef jerky between them, so i dont see much of a difference.

 

[Honger]

Honestly I'm just nitpicking a bit... cause I'm an engineer and can't help it, I'm compelled.

I wouldn't worry about ride quality cause who would actually notice on these old trucks anyway? I'd be a bit worried about it cracking/tearing metal somewhere from fatigue... that piece of beef jerky is enough to create play that relieves stress. Your weakest point would be where the 4Plus sliders bolt to the body tub.

 

[asu4runner]

Honestly I'm just nitpicking a bit... cause I'm an engineer and can't help it, I'm compelled.

I wouldn't worry about ride quality cause who would actually notice on these old trucks anyway? I'd be a bit worried about it cracking/tearing metal somewhere from fatigue... that piece of beef jerky is enough to create play that relieves stress. Your weakest point would be where the 4Plus sliders bolt to the body tub.

super valid point. i suppose in hind site i COULD have created a bolt on platform at the end of the chassis brace and used a piece of UHMD plastic or something with a bolt through it, and had the chassis end welded on instead of bolted. def would look cleaner that way. hey if i catch a wild hair i can always bust out the metabo and do some cutting and rework it.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Honestly I'm just nitpicking a bit... cause I'm an engineer and can't help it, I'm compelled.

I wouldn't worry about ride quality cause who would actually notice on these old trucks anyway? I'd be a bit worried about it cracking/tearing metal somewhere from fatigue... that piece of beef jerky is enough to create play that relieves stress. Your weakest point would be where the 4Plus sliders bolt to the body tub.

Shear and Moment.?

 

[Honger]

Shear and Moment.?

He had a moment issue causing his tub to flex... hence the cracked paint. I think he's reduced the moment forces to negligible with that beefy welded bracket.

But now it will be a shear force on the interface between the slider and the tub at the bolt-on locations.

Realistically, it's likely only an issue in the long run and with heavy use...