Builds Cody's slow white 80 (re)build

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Hey Tapage, They are known as quick connects,

thought they are the same as I use in my water/alcohol injection .. what are you passing throught 'em ?
 
Hey Tapage,
They are known as quick connects, they connect the tubing by just pressing the tubing into them, you can release the tubing by pushing the blue part in and pulling the tubing out. They arent as good as barbed hose fittings, but Ive had a hard time finding barbed hose fittings so They'll have to do.

You can actually just use a compression / ferrel fitting. They're not quick on and off, but the brass ferrel will seal to the nylon tubing just fine. They are not as tempermental about getting the perfect cut at the end of the tube like so many quick connects

Otherwise Swagelok is a pretty premium brand compared to others

http://www.swagelok.com/default.aspx?gclid=CPKWqqbx5qMCFaTY5wodmSh4aA
 
thought they are the same as I use in my water/alcohol injection .. what are you passing throught 'em ?

Hey Tapage (its David right?)

The lines alllow air to paddle valves, the valves inflate or deflate 4 airbags independantly at all corners. This allows me to lift or lower the cruiser, or tilt front, back left or right for hills or side slopes.
 
You can actually just use a compression / ferrel fitting. They're not quick on and off, but the brass ferrel will seal to the nylon tubing just fine. They are not as tempermental about getting the perfect cut at the end of the tube like so many quick connects

Otherwise Swagelok is a pretty premium brand compared to others

Swagelok.com the source for tube fittings, valves, and other fluid system components

Ive used a few swagelok fittings, they are nice, not cheap.

I would prefer bronze fittings with brass ferrel's, just have found a source yet.

Later I would like to replace all the fittings, but need to get it driveable first.

Thanks for the reccomendation.
 
Ive used a few swagelok fittings, they are nice, not cheap.

I would prefer bronze fittings with brass ferrel's, just have found a source yet..

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr


We use the quick fittings for leak test equipment. It's only .5psi stuff, but any leak in the set-up throws off our leak test of our product. False failures cause lost production. I hate them. Too often someone has played around with them, or cut them wrong, ect. When I do stuff in the lab I use compression fittings.

I had a Rancho remote shock adjustment system that had 3/32 tube or some other odd size that made finding compression fittings impossile. I think you're using all 1/4" stuff, which is easy to find (Is there lowes in Canada?). Anyway, it came with all these crappy plastic quick connects, and it leaked so much I took the whole system out. If it's been 1/4" or 1/8" I would have just got better fittings. The Swageloc ones I did find that fit would have been over $100 to replace all the connectors. Enough to drive a person nuts!

Hope McMaster-Carr, or Lowes can do for ya'.
 
Well, it's ready to roll out of the shop, just gotta grab some fresh oil this morning.

One thing I did notice is that the front driveshaft hits the cummins bell housing before it gets to bumpstops.
The split case must move the driveshaft inwards, or the NV4500/Adapter/splitcase moves the front output flange inwards an inch or two.

So I will have to keep a bit more air in it and order some bumpstops this morning so I can limit the axle travel. Actually I dont think the front bumpstops are doing anything, It just bottoms out on the airbag mounts, so it should be down anyway before I break something...

And then, ill start working on the rear bumpers later today. And get it washed off and take it for a drive!!!

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, Ive lost a couple front driveshaft bolts, anyone know if toyota stocks them or if there's a better source????

Also, Can I swap the driveshaft around???? this might solve my clearance problem...
 
Anyone know how these things work with the driveshaft backwards???


So... I took it for a "bug run" around this part of calgary and it drove pretty nicely.
The NV4500 has a granny 1st low, and it seems the 37's and stock gears work well together. I dont think I would want a smaller tire or lower gear based on how its geared right now. However its kind of at the point where 1st is a little on the slow side but I can start of in second and its not geared too high. I will have to get the GPS to be sure of speed, but I suspect Ill be cruising highway speeds at about 110kms / 65 mph comfortably but without room for much higher speed, which is probally sensible with this type of vehicle.

I will have to get some bumpstops for the front, get the little compressor for the rancho shocks working again, and I should look at upgrading the brakes somehow, as they dont seem matched to the extra weight and tire diameter.
 
Glad to hear you got it on the road. As far as the driveshaft goes you should be fine to run it flipped around if that's what you need to do for clearance. Just keep an eye on the front swaybar as it could end up rubbing there depending on how much air you put in the bags.
 
Glad to hear you got it on the road. As far as the driveshaft goes you should be fine to run it flipped around if that's what you need to do for clearance. Just keep an eye on the front swaybar as it could end up rubbing there depending on how much air you put in the bags.

Perfect! The sway bar has had the mounts lowered, so it has a fair bit of clearance.

This might save me a bit of a headache and give me more range of motion. :p
 
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Ya driveshaft clears perfectly now, hers a pic to prove it.

Had some PM's abput airbags, so ill post some pics.

First is at regular driving height.
IMG_9249.jpg
IMG_9248.jpg
 
Third pic is the rear bumper replacement I started close to a year ago, now that I finally have my own garage maybe Ill get some more work done, there is two sets here, one for me and one for a friend with a fzj80

Hmmm... I wonder who that could be??? :hhmm: Great work Cody, glad to see you got it running again. Can't wait to see it on the trails!
 
Looks great.

:hhmm: on the drive shaft. So the pic is with it "reversed" from what it was? Mine is like that stock, no replacement original.
 
Hey, that is how it is reversed now, it was rubbing on the bellhousing before (thick part of the driveshaft near the axle)

Guess that what I was wondering. From other pic's and the FSM it looks like yours was reversed to begin with and flipped it 180 to be correct. Not arguing right or wrong, just curious.
 
Guess that what I was wondering. From other pic's and the FSM it looks like yours was reversed to begin with and flipped it 180 to be correct. Not arguing right or wrong, just curious.

Really? Well it works, well clears I should say, although I havent had it in 4wd other than down the alley. I would be curious to see the FSM pic of how it is supposed to be, if anyone knows where to find it.

Been working (slowly) on the rear bumper, its not coming along as fast as I would have hoped, and Im getting to the point where i just want it to be done. :rolleyes: Im aiming for tomorrow, but I think it'll be a bit longer. Ill try and post some pics though soon.
 
How do the airbags work out? I'm curious as to how much the body of the truck is off center to the suspension when fully aired up since the panhard is not self adjusting...unless I missed something. Also, what is that on the hood?

Sweet rig man!!
 

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