Chewbacca's Birfield Grease Guide

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I contacted Archoil asking if the 8200 would fit my application. I supplied the text from the Toyota FSM so they new what I was looking for. According to them it will be perfect for my application. So... I'm going to give it a go. Hopefully I won't be doing my 3rd rebuild in the near future. :)
 
Tearing mine apart this weekend, hopefully mud will be back up and I'll have some peace of mind before ripping it apart.
 
I just read from the first post that Amsoil is not a good choice for cold weather environments. Can anyone share their experience? I just completed an axle service with new birfs using Amsoil.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...meric-off-road-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPOR2CR-EA


I think you'll be ok and I personally run Amsoil in everything but forgot to buy grease with my last oil order.


I was about to order some separately and then read on the data sheet that the thickener used was calcium-sulfonate rather than lithium based.


Between that, the cost, and the fact I used a 10 off 30 at AA I opted to go with the Valvoline vv832 tub and 833 tube.


The AMS is moly fortified and I think that's important, whether the thickener is critical or not I'm not sure but all the grease on the vehicle chart for the cruiser on their site is all calcium thickened.








calcium-sulfonate complex
 
I just read from the first post that Amsoil is not a good choice for cold weather environments. Can anyone share their experience? I just completed an axle service with new birfs using Amsoil.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...meric-off-road-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPOR2CR-EA


I personally think that the Amsoil grease is awesome stuff, but after examining it at really cold temperatures, its really gummy and I opted to use something different. I don't think it will flow very well inside the birf while in this state. If someone has had good experience with it in cold temps (less than 20 degrees F?) Maybe it'll be fine. Put a tube in your freezer for a day and then check it out, its pretty interesting.
 
Thank you for all of the information! Think im gonna play it safe and rock the Valvoline Palladium for birf and wheel bearings.

Do I need 4 standard tubes per side or all together?
 
The Chevron Delo heavy duty synthetic 5% moly is a NLGI #1 grease.

What do you think about that Chewbacca?
 
I took a look at my 1985 Toyota Pickup/4runner service manual and for the grease it says to use a molybdenum disulphide lithium grease with no mention of what consistency(i.e NLGI #2). In your Landcruiser manual does it specifically say to use an NLGI #2?

I have found a lot of posts on the internet that people like to use NLGI #2, or that people say the FSM says to use a #2 grease, but I have not personally come across an actual service manual saying what NLGI # to use, just that it says to use a moly lithium grease.
 
The Chevron Delo heavy duty synthetic 5% moly is a NLGI #1 grease.

What do you think about that Chewbacca?


I'm sure that would function just fine inside the Birfield joint. The manual specifies NLGI 2, but an NLGI 1 should be fine.

It has a lithium thickener, so that matches the Toyota requirements as well.

Synthetic greases are always superior in my opinion. Moly content looks good.
 
Using the Pallidium over here.
Hard to argue with what is proven, easily obtained, and cheap.
Is about $3 tube at Napa.

When you use the Amsoil; What are you going to do when you need more? Place an order for 1 tube for $15 and wait a week for it to show up.
Not my cup of tea, but proceed.
 
I'm sure that would function just fine inside the Birfield joint. The manual specifies NLGI 2, but an NLGI 1 should be fine.

It has a lithium thickener, so that matches the Toyota requirements as well.

Synthetic greases are always superior in my opinion. Moly content looks good.

I agree that synthetics are superior than conventional, which is why I was considering to run Chevrons synthetic even though it was only a #1. Their #2 5% moly is only available in conventional. After looking at the technical data between Chevrons 5% synthetic and their 5% conventional, their conventional would appear to be more robust if not operating in extreme temperautre conditions.

Synthetic #1 shows to have 13% thickener with a ISO 220 weight oil used.
Conventional #2 shows to have the same amount of thickener, but the ISO weight of the oil is 330(which is where the extra thickness comes from)
As per Chevrons ratings:
ISO 100 for motors, high speed.
ISO 220 for most applications.
ISO 320 for higher loads, medium speed.
ISO 460+ for highested loads, slowest speeds.
Synthetic has a four ball weld point of 800+kg, and the convetional is 500kg.
Synthetic has a .48mm wear pattern while the conventional has a .43mm wear pattern. Now, I'm not sure if .48 was taken at 800kg and the .43 was taken at 500kg, but if it was, potentially if the synthetic was running 500kg on the four ball weld test, the wear pattern would be thinner.
Load index is 135kg for synthetic and 75kg for conventional.
The Timken OK load for the Synthetic is 40lbs while the conventional is 70lbs. Apparently for the birfield application, the Timken load would be a more important factor than the weld point.
The temp range for the synthetic is -40 to 450F, and the temp range for coventional is -15 to 350F. Dropping point on both is the same at 509F.
Flash point of the Synthetic is 450F and the flash point of the convetional is 525F.
Water washout for the Synthetic is highly superior at 1.5% oil loss compared to the conventionals 5% oil loss.

Comparing to Redline CV-2;

Four ball test, 400KG
ball wear, .46mm
Load wear index, 71
-100-500F temp range with a drop point of 900F.
Oil loss to water washout, 1%

Out of the three with the consideration of not running in weather extremes, would Chevrons conventional moly not be the better one?
 
Using the Pallidium over here.
Hard to argue with what is proven, easily obtained, and cheap.
Is about $3 tube at Napa.

When you use the Amsoil; What are you going to do when you need more? Place an order for 1 tube for $15 and wait a week for it to show up.
Not my cup of tea, but proceed.


I keep 3 tubes on hand. That way I never have to run out to get any.
 
I picked up some Valvoline Palladium to check and top off my birfields. I know this might sound stupid, but what's the best way to get grease from the tube into the birfield fill hole?
 
I picked up some Valvoline Palladium to check and top off my birfields. I know this might sound stupid, but what's the best way to get grease from the tube into the birfield fill hole?
A grease gun.
 
Lots of great info here. How does Mobil-1 Synthetic Grease compare to the aforementioned greases?
 

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