Chassis options for coating? (1 Viewer)

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Jul 29, 2019
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Location
Coeur D Alene, Idaho
I was thinking to have them chassis sand blasted and powder coated. Is this necessary? If there's no rust, is there a coating or finish that's recommended or is powder coating the best? Thanks guys.
 
I had friends with Land Rovers that had them galvanized then powder coated or galvanized then epoxy paint. Might be overkill, plus the issues with welding to galvanized steel
 
I had friends with Land Rovers that had them galvanized then powder coated or galvanized then epoxy paint. Might be overkill, plus the issues with welding to galvanized steel
Shoot, I'm trying to avoid leaving it with a powder coat shop. But I don't want to inferior job just wondering if there's a option for a do-it-yourself situation
 
If you're in Idaho, the salt/humidity situation isn't terrible. Paint (applied fairly heavily) should be fine. Powdercoating works until salt and water get underneath it. Unless you move to Ohio or NY, I think your frame will outlast you.
 
The 60 I picked up this year has a sticker on the back window from a place called "Ming Rust Protection". Apparently it's a chain of rust protection shops in Canada ... they must need that in the Great White North! The Carfax shows the truck originated outside of Kansas City, so it's a US truck. It must have spent some time up north or else Ming branched out across the border in the 80s.

The entire underside of this truck, including the frame, is coated in what looks like cosmoline or some kind of hard waxy substance. Maybe it's lanolin-based like Fluid Film. It's also on the radiator support area behind the headlight buckets. It's pretty much everywhere that's both important and not immediately visible when standing next to the truck. Let me tell you what - this truck is CLEAN. You can almost eat off the frame and the body rust is very minimal. I'm pretty convinced that when I redo the rust protection stuff I'm going to try and find out what Ming used and source more of it.
 
The 60 I picked up this year has a sticker on the back window from a place called "Ming Rust Protection". Apparently it's a chain of rust protection shops in Canada ... they must need that in the Great White North! The Carfax shows the truck originated outside of Kansas City, so it's a US truck. It must have spent some time up north or else Ming branched out across the border in the 80s.

The entire underside of this truck, including the frame, is coated in what looks like cosmoline or some kind of hard waxy substance. Maybe it's lanolin-based like Fluid Film. It's also on the radiator support area behind the headlight buckets. It's pretty much everywhere that's both important and not immediately visible when standing next to the truck. Let me tell you what - this truck is CLEAN. You can almost eat off the frame and the body rust is very minimal. I'm pretty convinced that when I redo the rust protection stuff I'm going to try and find out what Ming used and source more of it.
Wow, that's worth a look, I'll check into that and the Por-15
 
I coated my chassis with 2 coats of POR 15 and then 2 coats of POR topcoat. There are some pics in my build thread but I'm really happy with how it turned out and I've used it on my LX470 before and it's going strong 6 years later even after being in Buffalo for the first year.

The key to POR15 working well is prep prep prep as with any chassis coating.
 
I wouldn't go with powder coat. The most thorough would be hot dip galvanizing...basically your frame will last for about 40 years before the galvanzing wears off and then however many more years before the steel corrodes away. The next best thing would be liquid paint system whether a sprayed multi part epoxy or just hand brushed POR 15 with a POR15 top coat after.
 
We just POR15’ed an 80-series chassis. To see pics, process and results go here to page 10.



Cheers
 
Galvanizing is durable and relatively inexpensive. Since the frame is dipped every nook and cranny is treated.
I meant to say I think it would be easier to take it somewhere and have it sandblasted then build a tank and fill it with enough fluid to galvanize the frame by dipping it am I missing something?
 
I meant to say I think it would be easier to take it somewhere and have it sandblasted then build a tank and fill it with enough fluid to galvanize the frame by dipping it am I missing something?
Oh no. You want to take it to a place that does galvanizing and just pay them to do it. If you can sand blast the frame before hand that will save you some money. Galvanizing is a giant tank of high temp liquid zinc that you dip into. The tank is heated to around 800 degrees Fahrenheit and it’s a big tank.
 
when galvanizing, you will either need to tap every threaded hole or install bolts in all the threaded holes before hand
maybe some place in Spokane will have a tank large enough, if not probably out on the coast, Seattle or Portland,
 
I did mine with two coats of POR-15, and then two coats of POR-15 top coat, all brushed on, by hand, in the summer lol. Seems to be holding just fine. Every year in the fall right before winter I unload a can or two of Fluid Film inside the frame,
 
when galvanizing, you will either need to tap every threaded hole or install bolts in all the threaded holes before hand
maybe some place in Spokane will have a tank large enough, if not probably out on the coast, Seattle or Portland,
You have to tap the holes or drill the through holes after. If you install bolts they will become encased in zinc and be very difficult to get out.
 

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