Charcoal Canister Replacement Option

[wsudu]

Just to be clear, this is the VSV that we are talking about, under the engine cover? I have a 2006 LX 470 and I get all five codes, I clear them and they come back within 50 miles or so. I’m literally going to Petsmart now to go buy some activated charcoal, because this valve I’m showing is definitely pulling a vacuum, once I start the truck it takes about two minutes for it to kick on.

 

[flyingscot]

I refilled my cannister., I tried the GM cannister. With both options, CEL eventually came back when it did the next LA4 emissions test and threw a code.

I got tired of it, bought a new cannister, and walked away. Done, no more codes. I've got better things to do with my life, and stuff that I need to do on the Cruiser. I spent days and days mucking around with it, it's just not worth the effort, IMHO.

Buy one every quarter million miles. It's a good deal when you amortize it over 15 or 20 years.

after reading all the threads - absolutely impressed by the ingenuity - I was fast coming to your conclusion - especially when you consider potential fuel leaks in the engine bay - my wife would beat me senseless, especially if there was an incident when the High Schoolers were driving it.......

 

[Natesfj40]

Hey gang,

Instead of separating the bottom of the canister, I opted instead to remove the old charcoal through a 1” DIA hole in the large chamber, and a .5” DIA hole in the smaller one.

I knew the spring plate would be an issue so I used QTY (4) self tapping screws to hold it in place as the lack of weight and pressure of the carbon allowed it to expand. I was about .75” from the bottom with my screws. You will need to drill all the way against the rib or 1” from the bottom to make sure they catch. (I was a hair too low and had to make a couple more holes.)

After refilling the main chamber I plugged it with a locking 1” plastic cap from Amazon. I sealed the plug with copious amounts of permatex fuel resistant gasket dressing.

You will want to really pack the charcoal in there. Use a funnel and keep packing until you cannot get any more in.

I test fit a dry cap, it was so tight I had to tear it out, essentially ruining it to remove it. I felt this was not only very effective method it was also less invasive.

Be sure to debur the area of the hole to ensure a clean unobstructed seal.

The smaller chamber was a b1&$@. I drilled a .5” hole to empty and refill.

Brain farted and did not use the self tap screw method to hold the small plate and spring down. This would have been preferred. This also would have better held the filter material that sits on the plate in place.

Because of the error, I made a 1” hole to turn the spring out and reorient the metal plate and filter back before refilling.

In hindsight a dab of hot glue would have worked.

I refilled the smaller chamber, plugged the holes with caps.

Used JB weld to seal the screw holes and reinstalled with no more vapor issues.

I have 20 miles so far, no smells, or pressure issues.



This seems to be a solid repair so far.

 

[Natesfj40]

 

[wsudu]

This is brilliant, I am going to give it a try soon. Will you please let us know how this holds up?

 

[Natesfj40]

If you were having difficulty filling up your tank, I would advise spending the $60 on this filler hose before going down the charcoal canister rabbit hole. In my case I needed both. This is a good first step before doing anything with the charcoal canister.

Part # 77213-60130
New:

Old:

Look ma no hands!!!

 

[Natesfj40]

This is brilliant, I am going to give it a try soon. Will you please let us know how this holds up?

For sure!

 

[Natesfj40]

For sure!

It's still early but the plugs and permatex seem to be holding up just fine after a couple tanks of gas. I am very happy with the repair, and saved $400+.

Here is the breakdown:

• 1" Plug Main chamber refill area - (Amazon) 5.25
• .5" Plug - Small chamber refill area - (Amazon) 5.88
• Fuel resistant permatex gasket dressing (amazon) 12.56
• Bulk Charcoal (amazon) 22.96

Total: $46.65

• Already had the 1" bore hole (for wood home door handles)
• Already had the .5" wood flat drill bit, worked just fine
• Already had JB weld
• Already had self tapping screws

 

[wsudu]

Any update to this @Natesfj40 ?

 

[Stralen]

A notification for this popped up the other day. I had been meaning to comment for some time:

I did something like this like 4 years ago now, or so. While it held well, it would still trip slow leak codes. No engine light, just saved codes. I did have to redo the repair once when it got another large leak and did throw. Even after wrapping that thing up and sealing multiple ways, it still always tripped slow leak codes in the computer. For the most part it held well enough all three years.

For some people, that is good enough. It got me along with no codes all that time. After I had saved up enough, and the price of the replacement had come down, though, I purchased a new one.

I'd like to report that I'm so happy I did that. I was really worried it would be a waste. But the new one not only completely resolved the slow leak issue, but improved my idle, low-end response, and mpg. When I First got my lc100, I drove off the lot getting 8mpg. Now, granted, in all this time I've done other repairs (gear boxes, sensors, fuel filter, intake, etc). Just before I did the canister, I say I'd get 16-17mpg, on average. Soooometimes 18 if I was easy. NOW, after the canister at this point, I've managed to squeak out up to 20mpg, even 20.5 on the highway, and pretty consistently over the months since I did it.. Around mid 16's-17's in the city depending on various factors.

This is on my lc anyways....

I will always say, it could be in my head. But a little while after doing the canister my wife happened to drive the truck, and no kidding, she asked what I had done, she could feel something had changed and it picked up easier than before.

I had always thought, you know, there are other seals, a sensor, old hoses... when I first rebuild it, a lot of old gas and even some rust was inside the old unit. I did that repair and tried to clean it best I could. But I had wondered what the condition was internally. Now, after replacing it entirely, I didn't spend a lot of time taking apart the old one. But I do feel personally, finally replacing it with a new one was money well spent.

On amayama, they are listing similar canisters, one for $181, and the other for ~$392. On my 2004 LC100, it was the 7774060440, which is now around $181.

 

[Natesfj40]

This is brilliant, I am going to give it a try soon. Will you please let us know how this holds up?

Still holding up no issues or regrets.

 

[Pyrenees]

Still holding up no issues or regrets.

Same here, interestingly enough.

 

[barely]

Sadly, the 77740-60390 canister is out of production and no one seems to have a new one any where in stock.

 

[barely]

I wonder how well something like this would fit? It's the canister for a 2000-2002 Tundra. It does look pretty similar.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

I wonder how well something like this would fit? It's the canister for a 2000-2002 Tundra. It does look pretty similar.

I picked one of these up the other day to modify to fit my 99.
Haven’t had time yet to put it in, or put them side by side, but after personal inspection of the tundra unit, I’m fairly certain it will work.

The slot-mount on the drivers side fender is there, and everything else looks the same accept the mounting feet on the tundra unit, and the “breather” box on the front facing side. The breather boxes are different shapes, but slide into location on a rail on the canister box and are held in place by what looks to be MR-T double sided tape.

I hope to document the adventure of this work around attempt and post it here once complete.

 

[barely]

I picked one of these up the other day to modify to fit my 99.
Haven’t had time yet to put it in, or put them side by side, but after personal inspection of the tundra unit, I’m fairly certain it will work.

The slot-mount on the drivers side fender is there, and everything else looks the same accept the mounting feet on the tundra unit, and the “breather” box on the front facing side. The breather boxes are different shapes, but slide into location on a rail on the canister box and are held in place by what looks to be MR-T double sided tape.

I hope to document the adventure of this work around attempt and post it here once complete.

I've got one on order, so definitely curious how your work turns out.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Ok.
Tundra unit (new) next to 99LC unit.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

I swapped the VCV from LC to Tundra unit easily, and slid it into position on the inner fender.
Had to dance a bit to clear the mounts on the Tundra unit around some wiring.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Found an old exhaust hanger bracket to “shade tree” fabricate a “hold down bracket”, as the Tundra unit does not have the same mounting ear on fender side as the LC unit.
Figured I should put something in there to keep it in place other than the slots, just in case I take it off “any sweet jumps” in the future!
I May rebuilt this bracket and paint it in the future, but needed to put something in today, as I have errands to run later today.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Reconnected vacuum lines, and fired it up.

I’ll let you guys know if I get any codes, but I think this will work!

Side note:
The 77740-34080 Tundra unit was less expensive than the NLA LC unit.