That price is just so offensive. There's no need for that much mark-up.
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That price is just so offensive. There's no need for that much mark-up.
I completely agree… scalper pricing.That price is just so offensive. There's no need for that much mark-up.
I too, have that OCD bug with regards to this type of problem-solving.My theoretical approach (because I'm a little OCD) would be to mask .125" on either side of the seam an apply JB weld to reseal.
There is always a way to do a thing. But until somebody does it, and documents the procedure, and tests it for functionality… it is uncharted territory.There’s gotta be a way to fit up a newer, easier to get, cheaper, Toyota “under rig” canister to the engine bay location…maybe?
I'm curious if there is a way to resolve the rusty post issue with a less invasive procedure than cutting the canister body open? Could a valve repair be accomplished by drilling only a couple of holes, similar to orthoscopic surgery, but using a borescope and a small brush?
The issue with NLA canisters brings back a similar situation that I saw in an Infiniti club 15 years ago. Those cars used a round canister. The club found a substitute canister from a completely different type of vehicle would work without much adaptation.
Comparing canisters. Tundra.
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2000 Tacoma canister for comparison.
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2000 Camry and ES 300 canister.
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I've been thinking along the same lines and I may have found us a good Denso solution for this, maybe even a cheap Chinese copy available from Dorman.
I've been having the common VOC/fuel smell, boiling and over-pressurization of the fuel tank when driving higher elevation trails. The smell gets so bad in the cabin that it will give you a headache. We have to get out, let the tank vent open for minutes before it clears. It wouldn't be a cigarette friendly situation either, high pressure vapors - kind of scary. Having done the ih8mud forum deep dive, it seems like this is a complex problem caused partially the location of the exhaust heat to the fuel/return lines and fuel tank and perhaps the carbon canister. Not sure if its the carbon being fuel saturated, the mechanical valves in the canister being stuck closed not allowing the tank to vent, or a combo of both.
$700+ sounds steep for this *potential fix so I decided to do a deep dive on how the system works, considered the simple canister setup like the 80 series guys have. Even if you retained the three way valve and pressure sensor, added T's to the fuel side and vent side of a simple canister for that, there's a big chance of causing issues with pressures being out of spec for the ECU and the CEL firing.
(This is for the 98-02 100's with the under hood canister, think people have already figured this out for the later 03+ ones) Being that the nearly identical first gen Tundra canister appears to be unavailable now, looked at the other options. The early Tacoma canister looks to be the closest match but mounts are totally different and it may be too wide for the spot in the engine bay. I couldn't get my hands on one or find the info online to be sure however, it might fit. I settled on trying 3.0 V6 Camry/ES300 style canister 77740-33062, data varies 97-98 for sure, perhaps other years although some are not the under hood style. It looked to be slightly smaller but the price was right, $250 for OEM Toyota so I ordered one.
The original canister measures aprx 6.5x5x6 and the Camary v6 one measures 5x5x6, so 30% less carbon volume. Being that the 80s are nearly the same displacement as the 2UZ-FE and have a small canister, thinking this should do... especially for the price making it "replaceable".
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Looking at the slide in mount that our existing LC100 and the Tundra canisters have, this Camry canister appeared to have a similar slide in mounting setup. I was happy to see the mount setup is the same size, this unit slides right into the 100 series mounting bracket.
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Before ordering I could see that the direction of the fresh air and purge line was 90 degrees offset. Repurposing the old vent line and using a bent 3/8 generic fuel line from Amazon made fitting this easy. With the matching bracket, mounting the canister was easy. Mounting the 3-way valve and pressure sensor with the existing wiring harness limitations was more tricky. I ended up using the new 3-way valve, different Denso part number than the original but seems to just be the orientation of the hose connections. They work identically and so far the ECU is happy. I tried multiple configurations with the old and new valve mount but nothing worked well, would clear the hood. I ended up just using 3M auto trim tape and mounting to the surface of the canister. I may end up having to JB weld these in place if it doesn't stand up to the heat.
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The part number I used was 77740-33062 but I see there may be another one listed for late 90s rav4's, look very similar. There's also a Dorman one for the es300 that claims to be reverse engineered from the original, $190 currently. Obviously the Denso part is preferred but nice to know that if these run out in the supply chain there's at least a Chinese knockoff that might be available.
I included the schematics for the 97 ES300 application. I used to ensure what lines went where, its pretty much the same as the 100 series canister, just offset 90 degrees right.
I've gotten so much help from the forum but never posted before, figured I would take the time to return the favor, hope this helps someone!
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tank is pressure locked when trying to fill.....what are the symptoms when the charcoal canister goes bad?
I forgot to add, the LC version has a filter box to keep things from coming into the system from the vent under the fender. Guess for the passenger car variant they didn't think they needed that. The box from the original canister is attached with mounting tape in a slot. Mine didn't have restriction, seemed good, so I reused. Just remove and attach to the side of the new one with mounting tape and its good to go.
Thanks... and dang, I overpaid quite a bit! That price makes it even more attractive for sure. I'm pretty sure that 77740-33062 comes with the switching valve, mine did... so $145 or so all in, pretty great. You could also reuse the old Denso valve but the new one had better orientation for the lines in this setup.Fantastic work on this issue of failed charcoal cannister replacement options!!!!!
FYI
From IMPEX Japan, the vacuum switching valve # 90910-12271 is $26.15
And the new charcoal cannister # 77740-33062 is $113.25
Expect $30 shipping for these 2 items… and shipping cost per item is reduced if you ordered more things that do not have a lot of weight…( like oil seals and gaskets for servicing front wheel bearings, or intake manifold and valve cover gaskets. What’s next up for service?)
Bringing the expected grand total to +/- $170 for the 2 components to complete this repair/ modification… with OEM Toyota parts.
You may have to wait a month to receive delivery, but that’s a LOT less expensive that the dealer if you ask me.
Yes, I was having some gas pumps do the click like it was full, having to hold the pump nozzle out a bit to allow it to fill. Then the noxious fumes at altitude, etc..tank is pressure locked when trying to fill.....