That price is just so offensive. There's no need for that much mark-up.
2000LC Replacement Charcoal Canister Options in 2025? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter BamaHoo
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I completely agree… scalper pricing.
At that cost, if I needed a replacement vapor canister, I would surgically open mine and replace the charcoal inside and clean all the valves. And spend the extra money on a high grade ABS plastic welding machine to reseal the charcoal canister.
They make some excellent plastic welding machines… The type they use on seamless laboratory flooring seems like would work extremely well for this application. Same type machine that they use for industrial membrane roofing.
Then you could start a side gig rejuvenating charcoal vapor canisters. I’d imagine you could pick up a lot of business just here on IH8MUD
My theoretical approach (because I'm a little OCD) would be to mask .125" on either side of the seam an apply JB weld to reseal.
I too, have that OCD bug with regards to this type of problem-solving.
I would not attempt to use any type JB weld, or sealer on a pressure vessel… Even though this vessel does not see much pressure, it is going to oil can slightly.. Which would destroy glue or sealer by fracturing it.
I really think that plastic welding ( melting it together) is the way to go. That’s how the factory did it. The joint seam on the bottom of OEM charcoal vapor canister is not sealed with primer and ABS or other type solvent glue… it is plastic welded. Probably a combination of ultrasonic and hot air welding.
I have repaired many plastic items over the years, using nothing more than a soldering iron and some scavenged fillet material. The failure rate of welded plastic items is an order of magnitude lesser than those items that are glued… especially in a dynamic vibration condition, or when encountering low pressure as in a charcoal canister. The most recent repair I did by plastic welding was one of the fender mounting tabs on the passenger headlight housing of my LX 470.
It turned out wonderfully… I had previously tried glue, even though I knew better, but the fracture reappeared within days. After plastic welding, six months later and it’s still looking good with no signs of failure.
When it comes time to refresh my charcoal vapor canister, that’s how I’m gonna do it.
By the way, I reached out to that eBay seller… Asked if the item was in stock and ready for immediate sale and shipping.
He said yes, he has 3 in stock ready to go
So any of you guys that are hard up? This seller has 3.
There’s gotta be a way to fit up a newer, easier to get, cheaper, Toyota “under rig” canister to the engine bay location…maybe?
There is always a way to do a thing. But until somebody does it, and documents the procedure, and tests it for functionality… it is uncharted territory.
The ‘03+ 100 series charcoal vapor canister, located by the spare tire, is not cheap… $450 from Toyota and $400+ aftermarket.
Now, let me preface this by stating that I have not yet performed a charcoal canister rejuvenation procedure… and the charcoal canister that I describe here to rejuvenate is for a Pre-‘03, which is located in the engine compartment, but I maintain that it seems that the most cost-effective and positive results manner by which to do this is… follow the documented charcoal replacement method as described in this thread. There are guys who have done this, and it works. Except the manner in which they seal up the charcoal canister seems to be substandard, because they have documented failures in the sealing method. And I truly appreciate their honesty because that’s how we, as a collective, improve a method of procedure.
I would not holesaw holes on the sides… I would surgically open at the factory bottom seam using an oscillating tool and a bi-metal blade. And use clamps or tape to hold the unit closed until you finish cutting open the bottom seam… that way the springs inside will not cause the unit to forcibly open itself up on you.
One crucial step that I would change, I would not use any JB Weld or sealer to close up the assembly after I was done with the rejuvenation of the charcoal and the cleaning of the internal valves. I would plastic weld the assembly back together, so as to ensure a structurally sound and permanently leak-free finished product. The same way the factory did it… plastic welding.
Cost for this charcoal canister rejuvenation is less than $100 worth of high grade aquarium charcoal and some cleaner for the internal valves, plus the cost of a hot air plastic welding machine… You can pick one of those up at Harbor freight for less than $100… or get the professional model from Leister for $500+… but that choice depends upon your tool junkie status.
When it comes time for my charcoal canister to be replaced or rejuvenated, that’s how I’m gonna do mine.
