That price is just so offensive. There's no need for that much mark-up.
2000LC Replacement Charcoal Canister Options in 2025? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BamaHoo
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I completely agree… scalper pricing.
At that cost, if I needed a replacement vapor canister, I would surgically open mine and replace the charcoal inside and clean all the valves. And spend the extra money on a high grade ABS plastic welding machine to reseal the charcoal canister.
They make some excellent plastic welding machines… The type they use on seamless laboratory flooring seems like would work extremely well for this application. Same type machine that they use for industrial membrane roofing.
Then you could start a side gig rejuvenating charcoal vapor canisters. I’d imagine you could pick up a lot of business just here on IH8MUD
My theoretical approach (because I'm a little OCD) would be to mask .125" on either side of the seam an apply JB weld to reseal.
I too, have that OCD bug with regards to this type of problem-solving.
I would not attempt to use any type JB weld, or sealer on a pressure vessel… Even though this vessel does not see much pressure, it is going to oil can slightly.. Which would destroy glue or sealer by fracturing it.
I really think that plastic welding ( melting it together) is the way to go. That’s how the factory did it. The joint seam on the bottom of OEM charcoal vapor canister is not sealed with primer and ABS or other type solvent glue… it is plastic welded. Probably a combination of ultrasonic and hot air welding.
I have repaired many plastic items over the years, using nothing more than a soldering iron and some scavenged fillet material. The failure rate of welded plastic items is an order of magnitude lesser than those items that are glued… especially in a dynamic vibration condition, or when encountering low pressure as in a charcoal canister. The most recent repair I did by plastic welding was one of the fender mounting tabs on the passenger headlight housing of my LX 470.
It turned out wonderfully… I had previously tried glue, even though I knew better, but the fracture reappeared within days. After plastic welding, six months later and it’s still looking good with no signs of failure.
When it comes time to refresh my charcoal vapor canister, that’s how I’m gonna do it.
By the way, I reached out to that eBay seller… Asked if the item was in stock and ready for immediate sale and shipping.
He said yes, he has 3 in stock ready to go
So any of you guys that are hard up? This seller has 3.
There’s gotta be a way to fit up a newer, easier to get, cheaper, Toyota “under rig” canister to the engine bay location…maybe?
There is always a way to do a thing. But until somebody does it, and documents the procedure, and tests it for functionality… it is uncharted territory.
The ‘03+ 100 series charcoal vapor canister, located by the spare tire, is not cheap… $450 from Toyota and $400+ aftermarket.
Now, let me preface this by stating that I have not yet performed a charcoal canister rejuvenation procedure… and the charcoal canister that I describe here to rejuvenate is for a Pre-‘03, which is located in the engine compartment, but I maintain that it seems that the most cost-effective and positive results manner by which to do this is… follow the documented charcoal replacement method as described in this thread. There are guys who have done this, and it works. Except the manner in which they seal up the charcoal canister seems to be substandard, because they have documented failures in the sealing method. And I truly appreciate their honesty because that’s how we, as a collective, improve a method of procedure.
I would not holesaw holes on the sides… I would surgically open at the factory bottom seam using an oscillating tool and a bi-metal blade. And use clamps or tape to hold the unit closed until you finish cutting open the bottom seam… that way the springs inside will not cause the unit to forcibly open itself up on you.
One crucial step that I would change, I would not use any JB Weld or sealer to close up the assembly after I was done with the rejuvenation of the charcoal and the cleaning of the internal valves. I would plastic weld the assembly back together, so as to ensure a structurally sound and permanently leak-free finished product. The same way the factory did it… plastic welding.
Cost for this charcoal canister rejuvenation is less than $100 worth of high grade aquarium charcoal and some cleaner for the internal valves, plus the cost of a hot air plastic welding machine… You can pick one of those up at Harbor freight for less than $100… or get the professional model from Leister for $500+… but that choice depends upon your tool junkie status.
When it comes time for my charcoal canister to be replaced or rejuvenated, that’s how I’m gonna do mine.
I've been thinking along the same lines and I may have found us a good Denso solution for this, maybe even a cheap Chinese copy available from Dorman.
I've been having the common VOC/fuel smell, boiling and over-pressurization of the fuel tank when driving higher elevation trails. The smell gets so bad in the cabin that it will give you a headache. We have to get out, let the tank vent open for minutes before it clears. It wouldn't be a cigarette friendly situation either, high pressure vapors - kind of scary. Having done the ih8mud forum deep dive, it seems like this is a complex problem caused partially the location of the exhaust heat to the fuel/return lines and fuel tank and perhaps the carbon canister. Not sure if its the carbon being fuel saturated, the mechanical valves in the canister being stuck closed not allowing the tank to vent, or a combo of both.
$700+ sounds steep for this *potential fix so I decided to do a deep dive on how the system works, considered the simple canister setup like the 80 series guys have. Even if you retained the three way valve and pressure sensor, added T's to the fuel side and vent side of a simple canister for that, there's a big chance of causing issues with pressures being out of spec for the ECU and the CEL firing.
(This is for the 98-02 100's with the under hood canister, think people have already figured this out for the later 03+ ones) Being that the nearly identical first gen Tundra canister appears to be unavailable now, looked at the other options. The early Tacoma canister looks to be the closest match but mounts are totally different and it may be too wide for the spot in the engine bay. I couldn't get my hands on one or find the info online to be sure however, it might fit. I settled on trying 3.0 V6 Camry/ES300 style canister 77740-33062, data varies 97-98 for sure, perhaps other years although some are not the under hood style. It looked to be slightly smaller but the price was right, $250 for OEM Toyota so I ordered one.
The original canister measures aprx 6.5x5x6 and the Camary v6 one measures 5x5x6, so 30% less carbon volume. Being that the 80s are nearly the same displacement as the 2UZ-FE and have a small canister, thinking this should do... especially for the price making it "replaceable".
Looking at the slide in mount that our existing LC100 and the Tundra canisters have, this Camry canister appeared to have a similar slide in mounting setup. I was happy to see the mount setup is the same size, this unit slides right into the 100 series mounting bracket.
Before ordering I could see that the direction of the fresh air and purge line was 90 degrees offset. Repurposing the old vent line and using a bent 3/8 generic fuel line from Amazon made fitting this easy. With the matching bracket, mounting the canister was easy. Mounting the 3-way valve and pressure sensor with the existing wiring harness limitations was more tricky. I ended up using the new 3-way valve, different Denso part number than the original but seems to just be the orientation of the hose connections. They work identically and so far the ECU is happy. I tried multiple configurations with the old and new valve mount but nothing worked well, would clear the hood. I ended up just using 3M auto trim tape and mounting to the surface of the canister. I may end up having to JB weld these in place if it doesn't stand up to the heat.
The part number I used was 77740-33062 but I see there may be another one listed for late 90s rav4's, look very similar. There's also a Dorman one for the es300 that claims to be reverse engineered from the original, $190 currently. Obviously the Denso part is preferred but nice to know that if these run out in the supply chain there's at least a Chinese knockoff that might be available.
I included the schematics for the 97 ES300 application. I used to ensure what lines went where, its pretty much the same as the 100 series canister, just offset 90 degrees right.
I've gotten so much help from the forum but never posted before, figured I would take the time to return the favor, hope this helps someone!
I've been having the common VOC/fuel smell, boiling and over-pressurization of the fuel tank when driving higher elevation trails. The smell gets so bad in the cabin that it will give you a headache. We have to get out, let the tank vent open for minutes before it clears. It wouldn't be a cigarette friendly situation either, high pressure vapors - kind of scary. Having done the ih8mud forum deep dive, it seems like this is a complex problem caused partially the location of the exhaust heat to the fuel/return lines and fuel tank and perhaps the carbon canister. Not sure if its the carbon being fuel saturated, the mechanical valves in the canister being stuck closed not allowing the tank to vent, or a combo of both.
$700+ sounds steep for this *potential fix so I decided to do a deep dive on how the system works, considered the simple canister setup like the 80 series guys have. Even if you retained the three way valve and pressure sensor, added T's to the fuel side and vent side of a simple canister for that, there's a big chance of causing issues with pressures being out of spec for the ECU and the CEL firing.
(This is for the 98-02 100's with the under hood canister, think people have already figured this out for the later 03+ ones) Being that the nearly identical first gen Tundra canister appears to be unavailable now, looked at the other options. The early Tacoma canister looks to be the closest match but mounts are totally different and it may be too wide for the spot in the engine bay. I couldn't get my hands on one or find the info online to be sure however, it might fit. I settled on trying 3.0 V6 Camry/ES300 style canister 77740-33062, data varies 97-98 for sure, perhaps other years although some are not the under hood style. It looked to be slightly smaller but the price was right, $250 for OEM Toyota so I ordered one.
The original canister measures aprx 6.5x5x6 and the Camary v6 one measures 5x5x6, so 30% less carbon volume. Being that the 80s are nearly the same displacement as the 2UZ-FE and have a small canister, thinking this should do... especially for the price making it "replaceable".
Looking at the slide in mount that our existing LC100 and the Tundra canisters have, this Camry canister appeared to have a similar slide in mounting setup. I was happy to see the mount setup is the same size, this unit slides right into the 100 series mounting bracket.
Before ordering I could see that the direction of the fresh air and purge line was 90 degrees offset. Repurposing the old vent line and using a bent 3/8 generic fuel line from Amazon made fitting this easy. With the matching bracket, mounting the canister was easy. Mounting the 3-way valve and pressure sensor with the existing wiring harness limitations was more tricky. I ended up using the new 3-way valve, different Denso part number than the original but seems to just be the orientation of the hose connections. They work identically and so far the ECU is happy. I tried multiple configurations with the old and new valve mount but nothing worked well, would clear the hood. I ended up just using 3M auto trim tape and mounting to the surface of the canister. I may end up having to JB weld these in place if it doesn't stand up to the heat.
The part number I used was 77740-33062 but I see there may be another one listed for late 90s rav4's, look very similar. There's also a Dorman one for the es300 that claims to be reverse engineered from the original, $190 currently. Obviously the Denso part is preferred but nice to know that if these run out in the supply chain there's at least a Chinese knockoff that might be available.
I included the schematics for the 97 ES300 application. I used to ensure what lines went where, its pretty much the same as the 100 series canister, just offset 90 degrees right.
I've gotten so much help from the forum but never posted before, figured I would take the time to return the favor, hope this helps someone!
I forgot to add, the LC version has a filter box to keep things from coming into the system from the vent under the fender. Guess for the passenger car variant they didn't think they needed that. The box from the original canister is attached with mounting tape in a slot. Mine didn't have restriction, seemed good, so I reused. Just remove and attach to the side of the new one with mounting tape and its good to go.
tank is pressure locked when trying to fill.....
Fantastic work on this issue of failed charcoal cannister replacement options!!!!!
FYI
From IMPEX Japan, the vacuum switching valve # 90910-12271 is $26.15
And the new charcoal cannister # 77740-33062 is $113.25
Expect $30 shipping for these 2 items… and shipping cost per item is reduced if you ordered more things that do not have a lot of weight…( like oil seals and gaskets for servicing front wheel bearings, or intake manifold and valve cover gaskets. What’s next up for service?)
Bringing the expected grand total to +/- $170 for the 2 components to complete this repair/ modification… with OEM Toyota parts.
You may have to wait a month to receive delivery, but that’s a LOT less expensive that the dealer if you ask me.
Thanks... and dang, I overpaid quite a bit! That price makes it even more attractive for sure. I'm pretty sure that 77740-33062 comes with the switching valve, mine did... so $145 or so all in, pretty great. You could also reuse the old Denso valve but the new one had better orientation for the lines in this setup.
Yes, I was having some gas pumps do the click like it was full, having to hold the pump nozzle out a bit to allow it to fill. Then the noxious fumes at altitude, etc..
