This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I would damage that in short order.oh man, you fellas are still dinking around with the Vatozone special canisters? I switched over a GM vapor canister like what @TYM4FUN did and never looked back. $25 for an used one from U pull N pay, and mounted it under the cab then forget about it. No more smells. Bonus is that you get some space freed up in that original CC spot.
View attachment 4058102
Yeah, I'm not sure I'd want it in that spot without some sort of extra protection. Still, a something shaped like a brick is easier to package than a canister. I'm pretty happy with my rebuilt OEM can, but I can see finding a safe home for that somewhere underneath if I needed the space in the engine compartment.
Any write up? Canister info?
Yep on most 80s
Yep I get it we all use our rigs differently
just a weebitI think you’re over the GVWR just a little.
I was looking at relocating my Vatozone special under the rig as well. However, with two fuel tanks, the vapor was still happening in the heat of the summer so it was time for a re-design. The ideal place for the GM canister is at the rear cross member, where Tym4fun placed his. My subtank prevented that from happening, unfortunately.
I don't think the emissions guy in CA is looking for your charcoal canister in the engine bay during the SMOG test, but I could be wrong.Probably depends on the guy. I'd wager there are some that would reject the autozone canister if they notice it isn't OEM. I live outside emissions territory (Oregon has different rules depending where the vehicle is licensed), so I run the emissions controls that seem like they solve more problems than they create and ditch the stuff that doesn't (cough cough EGR...), but I've seen enough emissions threads with people talking about shopping for the right place to get their tests done. That really says volumes about what an effective system it is. Make no mistake, I'm all in favor of things that actually help. 'Kay, let me stop now before I go into a full bore rant.yeah in theory we shouldn't be doing lots of stuff, but that's not really stopping us, is it?
Not a clue!
How old is your battery? 5-6 cranks is not normal.
It's only 3 years old. I've just replaced the canister today and noticed the reduced crank time. Could also be distributer cap, spark plugs, wires. A tune-up's in my near future anyway.
So what do you do with the open connection for the bottom portion that the OEM used? Do you leave it open or cover it?All -
After owning my 80 for over 2 years, experiencing higher than normal pressure when removing the gas cap the entire time, I tried many solutions. However, I've been reluctant to replace the charcoal canister due to the cost -- approx $300 (plus or minus), and it's a dealer-only item.
Many of us have posted/read info on this thread:
Excessive fuel tank pressure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/292965-excessive-fuel-tank-pressure.html
I tried a junk yard canister from a 1997 80 with absolutely no affect. I tested hoses, attempted to test pressures, made sure the VSV worked correctly, etc. As best I could tell the system was at least functioning.
After much research, I found this alternative canister for $36 !!!
If the link gets stale, it's Autozone part VC120 for early 1990s GM cars with the 3.1L V6 (pontiac, oldsmobile). The dimensions were close enough to ours, so I pulled the trigger on a hunch. And it works beautifully! I wanted to run thru several fill-ups before I posted, and I can say that after 6 fill-ups, my 80 finally operates like a normal car (as the gas pump anyway). No sound, no air escaping, etc.
It has the same style connectors and pulls in fresh air from the bottom just like the 80s. Using the highly calibrated "blow with your mouth" technique, I confirmed that this canister is almost identical to the stock 80s as described in the FSM. Minor details on mounting:
Info/links:
- There is no hose connection on the bottom like the 80s, so you can remove the hose completely. This replacement canister has it's own filter and cover on the bottom. In stock 80s, the hose simply routes down to the frame area. I assume to pull in fresher, cooler air.
- The diameter is just a bit larger than the stock 80s, but you can see in the pic below that it fits in the stock bracket, in the stock location, using the stock hoses. You'll notice that I used a ziptie in place of the bolt on the bracket - a longer bolt would be better, but I didn't have one around. And it's a tight fit, so I don't think it's going anywhere
- The "tank" port on the canister uses a larger diameter hose barb, but a little persuasion works.
How to test your canister from 1997 FSM
-I suspect that the purge check valve in my canister was sticking. You should have suction into the engine on the purge hose as described in the link above. This suction should be able to keep up with vapors generated in the tank as long as the canister flows freely.
I haven't tested this after driving up to high elevations yet, but based on my experience so far, I think it's going to do great. Hope this helps out the community as much as it's helped me.
I'm about to install this. I notice you said you don't need the bottom hose, so what do you do with the uncovered opening that the hose used to connect to? See pictureAll -
After owning my 80 for over 2 years, experiencing higher than normal pressure when removing the gas cap the entire time, I tried many solutions. However, I've been reluctant to replace the charcoal canister due to the cost -- approx $300 (plus or minus), and it's a dealer-only item.
Many of us have posted/read info on this thread:
Excessive fuel tank pressure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/292965-excessive-fuel-tank-pressure.html
I tried a junk yard canister from a 1997 80 with absolutely no affect. I tested hoses, attempted to test pressures, made sure the VSV worked correctly, etc. As best I could tell the system was at least functioning.
After much research, I found this alternative canister for $36 !!!
If the link gets stale, it's Autozone part VC120 for early 1990s GM cars with the 3.1L V6 (pontiac, oldsmobile). The dimensions were close enough to ours, so I pulled the trigger on a hunch. And it works beautifully! I wanted to run thru several fill-ups before I posted, and I can say that after 6 fill-ups, my 80 finally operates like a normal car (as the gas pump anyway). No sound, no air escaping, etc.
It has the same style connectors and pulls in fresh air from the bottom just like the 80s. Using the highly calibrated "blow with your mouth" technique, I confirmed that this canister is almost identical to the stock 80s as described in the FSM. Minor details on mounting:
Info/links:
- There is no hose connection on the bottom like the 80s, so you can remove the hose completely. This replacement canister has it's own filter and cover on the bottom. In stock 80s, the hose simply routes down to the frame area. I assume to pull in fresher, cooler air.
- The diameter is just a bit larger than the stock 80s, but you can see in the pic below that it fits in the stock bracket, in the stock location, using the stock hoses. You'll notice that I used a ziptie in place of the bolt on the bracket - a longer bolt would be better, but I didn't have one around. And it's a tight fit, so I don't think it's going anywhere
- The "tank" port on the canister uses a larger diameter hose barb, but a little persuasion works.
How to test your canister from 1997 FSM
-I suspect that the purge check valve in my canister was sticking. You should have suction into the engine on the purge hose as described in the link above. This suction should be able to keep up with vapors generated in the tank as long as the canister flows freely.
I haven't tested this after driving up to high elevations yet, but based on my experience so far, I think it's going to do great. Hope this helps out the community as much as it's helped me.
